Finished my install, try to start the car, starter is sluggish...

Kiljosh · 03-30-2006, 10:59 PM

Hey guys, my problem is as my title states, I finished up my head install today finally around 9:30, got in the car, bumped it over, sounded good so I tried to start her up. The thing is I, hear the solenoids click on, get a good 1 or 2 cranks from the starter then nothing or else real slow turning, I figured it was my battery so I charged her up and it didn't work still. SO I tried replacing the battery with the one from my honda, still a no go. My lights and wipers are both working fine and bright when the key is on run. The warning chime is loud and all the lights on my gauges work bright. My dome light goes out when I try to crank though.

So after the battery didnt work I went down the list...

-Checked all connections at the battery, made sure nothing was corroded and clamps were fully seated and tightened.

-Checked starter bolts and connections.

-Checked for fuel pump turning on, and made sure the shut off switch was set.

-Made sure engine wasnt siezed, rotated it manually.

-Put new gas in, a loong shot but you never know.

So after doing the basic checks does anyone have any idea what my problem may be. My gut says the starter is the problem, but im not sure if it's that or if my battery is just too weak...

Thanks for any help you can give me...

WhiteStang99 · 03-30-2006, 11:01 PM

if you have a charger you can plug up to an outlet, try pluggin the battery up to that all night, then trying it in the morning. Other than that, I dunno.

**Brent** · 03-30-2006, 11:02 PM

My money is with the starter. Doesnt sound like a battery problem to me if you used two different batteries.

How much do starters run?

Kiljosh · 03-30-2006, 11:08 PM

I was thinking the same, my bet is that if I shell out the money for a brand new one it'll run me well over $100. Maybe ebay will supply yet again...

Im gonna start posting on a whole bunch of boards and see what people think.

**Brent** · 03-30-2006, 11:10 PM

So the car starts right? Or no?

Kiljosh · 03-30-2006, 11:12 PM

No it wouldn't start, it gives me a crank or two then stops altogether.

I just wann hear the thing lol.

**Brent** · 03-30-2006, 11:19 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Kiljosh No it wouldn't start, it gives me a crank or two then stops altogether. I just wann hear the thing lol.

I seriously doubt it is your battery.

Kiljosh · 03-31-2006, 11:32 AM

You realize when i say crank I dont mean the engine turns over and works for a second then dies. Just that its a real slow crank almost like its burnt out and doesnt have the balls to turn the motor anymore.

MarkuzLS1 · 03-31-2006, 11:55 AM

My money's on bad starter, if you've already checked all the connections.

**Herbstang** · 12:31 PM

Double check the ground to the engine !!! also check the starter relay that can cause dragging of the starter

http://www.misterfixit.com/starttst.htm

I_luv_HP&trq · 03-31-2006, 12:30 PM

what about checking the spark plugs and wires?

**Herbstang** · 03-31-2006, 12:37 PM

Here's something I found That may help

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computers.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.

2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. It uses a barrel type quick disconnect connector inline with the battery ground pigtail. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.

4.) The engine mounted sensors have a common separate ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, & BAP/MAP. These sensors share a black/white ground wire that connects to computer pin 46.

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It comes out of the fuel injector harness near the EGR valve.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally.

97Stallion · 03-31-2006, 12:44 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Herbstang Here's something I found That may help Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computers. 1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator. 2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. 3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. It uses a barrel type quick disconnect connector inline with the battery ground pigtail. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery. 4.) The engine mounted sensors have a common separate ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, & BAP/MAP. These sensors share a black/white ground wire that connects to computer pin 46. 5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It comes out of the fuel injector harness near the EGR valve. 6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. 7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer. 8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally.

If the engine is properly grounded, the engine won't even crank over at all. Chances are you're starter isn't strong enough to turn your engine over. Get a new one.

Kiljosh · 03:14 PM

Thanks for all the replies guys, I am looking around for prices on new starters and finding some half decent deals.

Also, I know its not wires, I got a brand new set for the install. My plugs however are used, but only for about 300 miles. I checked the gaps and porcelain, cleaned them up a bit and just reinstalled them. I don't think bad plugs would keep the engine from turning though...

Also, I got a reply back on another forum telling me to check my rocker arm adjustment. Apparently if they are too tight it can cause a similair problem?? Anyone know if this sounds like it could be it?


Quote: Sounds like a timing issue. When ignition timing is too high, its hard, and sometimes impossible to turn the motor over. Check your plug wire order, and anything else that has to do with ignition. Can you turn the motor over by hand with the ignition off? When you installed the timing chain, did you line up the timing marks (cam mark on bottom, crank mark on top?)

Another suggestion I got, holds no water though as I am POSITIVE timing is dead on. As long as both marks are supposed to point at each other and not away then it is dead on.

**Brent** · 04-01-2006, 04:17 PM

I doubt its your rocker arms.

97Stallion · 04-01-2006, 10:26 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Kiljosh Also, I got a reply back on another forum telling me to check my rocker arm adjustment. Apparently if they are too tight it can cause a similair problem?? Anyone know if this sounds like it could be it? Another suggestion I got, holds no water though as I am POSITIVE timing is dead on. As long as both marks are supposed to point at each other and not away then it is dead on.

OK if definately not either and I'll tell you why.

1. Your timing can in no way be adjusted except for the in the EEC, you're timing chain has two gears, each with only one slot for the key. Unless you didn't follow directions and didn't align the 2 dots or notches, the timing is not off.

2. If your rockers are too tight, all that's going to happen is you're going to not build up and compression because your valves will remain open, and you're engine will just continue to rotate. Our lifters are not solid lifters, they're hydraulic. That means they have ~ .100" buffer before they become solid lifters. When the engine starts the lifters fill up with oil and remove any slight gaps between the rocker, pushrod and valve.