engine upgrade questions

[Kyle]

ok, along with plasma donation, i will also try to pick up a second job over the summer to help engine funds........here is what i have in mind


stage 2+ power pack from ssm

or

heads/cam/ported upper intake/exhaust



the stage 2+ will run about 2k while the other will run about 1k......installation will be around 1.5k-2k for the stage 2+ and about 1k maybe less for the other upgrade. now on to my questions..........

-my car has 57k miles on it right now and will have about ~62k when i upgrade everything, will it hold up with just the h/c/i/e package? how much strain will it put on the other stock parts?

-if i go with with the stage 2+ how will that hold up?

-what other parts will i need for both packages?

-how much stronger/weaker will this make my motor overall?

-what gains can i expect with both packages?

[Dark02Pony]

i really havent looked all that much into SSM so i dont want to give you gains that will/could be inacurate.Pretty much gonna need a buncha gaskets(manifold gasket, IAC gasket, TB gasket, headgasket)a tune(for the cam) and a hardware package.As for how you'll hold up with h/c/i ..you'll be fine, besides my oil seal blowing(which was not caused by modifications) i havent noticed a bit of wear and im at 65,xxx although i have a GT rear and a few things here and there.I really wouldnt worry about hurting your motor, now if you were going to throw a 12psi blower or turbo(s) on a stock motor id say keep a good eye on things.

[bbunt302]

As long as you stay N/A and don't put together a combo that has to be rev'ed to the moon and back to make power, you'll be fine. Really the only added stress on the bottom end that comes from upgrading H/C/I is the higher RPMs that are usually necessary to take advantage of the new parts. I imagine you'll probably be going with a pretty streetable combo though, so it really shouldn't be an issue.

As for the rest, I'll wait and let someone who actually knows a little bit about the 3.8 (or 3.9, whichever way you swing ) chime in.

[dark]

with an h/c/i, the only things you really need to worry about are gasket seals, bolt torque and tuning. top end by itself won't put the rest of your engine in much, if any, danger; as long as everything is put together and tuned right. it's when you start thinking about forced induction that you'll want to beef up the bottom of the engine

with your 99-04 stang, with stock compression, an h/c/i package will put you around 220 rwhp, assuming top notch porting and a good tune... a top end job will mean exhaust also, single stock exhaust simply won't let the ported intakes flow like they need to.. bottlenecks and such... and don't forget your drivetrain if you intent to get your power to the ground...

you should get teh 4.2 stroker also

[Dom]

Quote: heads/cam/ported upper intake/exhaust

Don't know about that craziness right there, but I'm guessing you want H/C/I.

Roughly both are the same thing it's just how for they port them on the 'stages'. The only way you're gonna damage the bottom end is if you rev it out.

But, since you're gonna be doing all that, you might was well keep saving and add RR to the package.

You're also gonna need a new tune.

[SpectorV]

i would suggest going and driving a 99-04 gt a good bit to see how you like it, thats kind of what your car will feel like after you are done~ 230rwhp~ and it should have a bit more tq but close. If you like it hten you know your money will be well spent.

[Kyle]

aight, if i go with this, how much hp will i get and what else will i need to upgrade for this


Redlined Performance Mustangs
:: Engine Components
:: Rotating Assemblies
:: RPM 3.8L Rotating Assembly

[SpectorV]

I just see a rotating assembly, same compression ratio? if so probably no more power

[dark]

well, keep in mind that if you're gonna just gonna get a rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods, rings, flywheel) that you'll have to have a local shop to the prep work on your block (cleaning, honing, etc) AND you will still need to buy the top end kit... all of that will add up $ as quickly as buying a prepped block

and why stay 3.8 when you can go 4.3

[Dom]

Cause anything over 4.2 can become unstable in the right conditions.

[SpectorV]

you can run into issues on TOP of issues if a local shop screws you. Before you have ANYONE work on your car do a back ground check, ask for references, and when talking to those references ask for other references to get to teh true story. On top check the BBB for filed complaints and any other info you can get locally about problems that are of public record. Finally get a WRITTEN AND SIGNED contract as to what you are getting, what you are paying, and what is warrantied and what is not, get pictures as well, hell record em talking to you. You simply NEVER know when a bit of effort will save you time and money along with headaches.

Take the precautions and come out much happier, also you pay for what you get cheaper is not better always.

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dom Cause anything over 4.2 can become unstable in the right conditions.

No it wont.. My engine is a 4.3

[bbunt302]

I don't know much about the V6's... but isn't a 4.3 just a 4.2 with a .030 overbore? If so, it's no less stable than a 4.2. Just means you probably won't be able to bore out the block again if it ever needs to be built again.

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 I don't know much about the V6's... but isn't a 4.3 just a 4.2 with a .030 overbore? If so, it's no less stable than a 4.2. Just means you probably won't be able to bore out the block again if it ever needs to be built again.

Yes that is all it is

[Dom]

Quote: Originally Posted by Brent No it wont.. My engine is a 4.3

I'm talkin 4.5 or 4.6.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV you can run into issues on TOP of issues if a local shop screws you. Before you have ANYONE work on your car do a back ground check, ask for references, and when talking to those references ask for other references to get to teh true story. On top check the BBB for filed complaints and any other info you can get locally about problems that are of public record. Finally get a WRITTEN AND SIGNED contract as to what you are getting, what you are paying, and what is warrantied and what is not, get pictures as well, hell record em talking to you. You simply NEVER know when a bit of effort will save you time and money along with headaches. Take the precautions and come out much happier, also you pay for what you get cheaper is not better always.

Not an issue with who we would have do the work....any one of our 3 options would come very highly recommended from a lot of sources. 2 of the 3 have multiple race proven cars...the third worked for one of the other 2 until he started his own business. Quality speed shops are not an issue here.

[Kyle]

Redlined Performance Mustangs
:: Motors
:: Shortblocks
:: RPM 4.2L Stroker Shortblock. Choose your options!




ok, thanks to the help of Rob, this is what i am looking into now

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by 04stang Redlined Performance Mustangs :: Motors :: Shortblocks :: RPM 4.2L Stroker Shortblock. Choose your options! ok, thanks to the help of Rob, this is what i am looking into now

I have the following

RPM Max effort Big valve heads
RPM lower intake port matched to the big valve heads
RGR Stage 3 Upper Intake that is ported for a 60mm T/b and shortened runners.
RPM 216/225 cam It is a fairly large 3.8 cam that has a wild lope
Harland Sharp 1.73 Adj roller rockers.