heads

[93stanger]

Dart Pro 1 Vs. Trick Flow Twisted Wedge

I got a 93 mustang gt

[bbunt302]

I'd say the Trick Flows. They're probably the best head in their price range for a 5.0. Of course, I'd really recommend you save a little extra for the AFR 165s...

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 Of course, I'd really recommend you save a little extra for the AFR 165s...

+1

Based on the write up in 5.0 a few months ago about the AFR heads on a 5.0....get a few extra bucks and get those...I don't remember if the 185s were that much better than the 165s....but either way, that would be the better route.

[12second5.0]

AFR's are a good head no doubt.The only thing is you need to upgrade the springs I believe so you are out $1400 to 1500 on a set of heads vs. Trick flow or Edelbrock's which are great out of the box and within 10 horsepower on a stock bolt on 302.They are usually around $1100........

[Zim]

Not "technically" a poweradder... moving to the 5.0 forum.

Id do TF if you're looking for out of the box. AFR's are real nice, but as mentioned, youll need new springs.

[bbunt302]

The new springs aren't a total necessity depending on the cam you are planning on running though. Sure, they are a nice and upgrade and definitely recommended for anything beyond a mild cam. But I'm running a Comp Xtreme Energy 270HR cam in mine with the original AFR springs with no problem. Like I said though, it's a quite mild cam (only has .512" lift) and I don't take the car up to 6k RPMs everywhere I go.

However, whenever I end up buying a coupe to put that motor in, it's gonna get new springs and a custom cam from FTI.

[Zim]

My ported GT40s with the e303 cam are rockin trickflow valve springs

If I ever buy new heads, itll be afr 165's and ill just swap these springs over.

[Danger Dude]

OK I am going to throw my 25 years of engine building experience around and disagree with my fine friends here. Never do a engine build of any type when including a cam change and use stock springs or valvetrain hardware. 90% of all modded engines break do to overlooking the valvetrain. So the little more you will spend on new springs and hardware is valuable insurance. Cause of a spring breaks and the keeper comes off you will lose at the very least a Piston and a head but you could destroy the block in the process.

On of the reasons is spring steel is subjected to high temp and cool down as well as a constant lift in a stock engine. Steel tempers to the lift and the heat. When you change the lift and the heat characteristics of a engine you change the spring movement and temp it works in. This change to the lift can actually cause what would appear to be a spring in good shape to break. You have to remember one valve travels up and down 1,008,000
in a 6 hour period at 2800 rpms at roughly 75mph on the highway which means that spring is compressed and contracted 1,008,000 time in that 6 hours now think about what they is in a years time

[bbunt302]

Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude OK I am going to throw my 25 years of engine building experience around and disagree with my fine friends here. Never do a engine build of any type when including a cam change and use stock springs or valvetrain hardware. 90% of all modded engines break do to overlooking the valvetrain. So the little more you will spend on new springs and hardware is valuable insurance. Cause of a spring breaks and the keeper comes off you will lose at the very least a Piston and a head but you could destroy the block in the process. On of the reasons is spring steel is subjected to high temp and cool down as well as a constant lift in a stock engine. Steel tempers to the lift and the heat. When you change the lift and the heat characteristics of a engine you change the spring movement and temp it works in. This change to the lift can actually cause what would appear to be a spring in good shape to break. You have to remember one valve travels up and down 1,008,000 in a 6 hour period at 2800 rpms at roughly 75mph on the highway which means that spring is compressed and contracted 1,008,000 time in that 6 hours now think about what they is in a years time

They weren't stock springs. They were the "stock springs" that come with the AFR 165 heads. Everyone recommends to go ahead and upgrade them to an even better spring, but they are a large improvement over the factory Ford springs.

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 They weren't stock springs. They were the "stock springs" that come with the AFR 165 heads. Everyone recommends to go ahead and upgrade them to an even better spring, but they are a large improvement over the factory Ford springs.

What I am trying to point out is even if you have performance heads and springs on a car for a few years and you decide to get a more agressive cam with a different lift you need to really consider new springs and keepers.

[bbunt302]

Definitely. When I do take the motor out of the car, the heads are gonna be completely re-worked. I may even go ahead and bore out to a 306 and do a complete bottom end rebuild while I'm at it, but I haven't decided yet...

Also, here's a little description of the springs that came with the AFR heads: "1.450" OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring w/ dampener, 120 lbs on seat, .550" maximum lift". I'm well under the maximum recommended lift and shift just before 6,000 RPM, which is probably why I haven't had any problems from them. Their website recommends an upgrade if you are gonna be seeing higher than 6k RPM due to valve float.

[snake99bite]

Go w/ afr's! they're a little more $ but def. woth it!

[MonteCitan]

Quote: Originally Posted by ZimStang My ported GT40s with the e303 cam are rockin trickflow valve springs If I ever buy new heads, itll be afr 165's and ill just swap these springs over.

ditto 'cept on cam.. and my ported GT heads.. (just stamped GT lol.. 93 cobra heads..) with 1.7 RRs and trickflow springs are supporting high 11 second runs on a mere 331 bottom end