2002 V6 Mustang

[Drunken Ghost]

I just purchased a 2002 V6 Stang...

Im trying to get through what I guess would be Stage 1

Im looking for recommendations on Stage 1 parts, I wanna be able to put the naysayers who told me to go for the V8 to bed.

Oh and I also have a question about the underdrive pulleys, do they cause the alternator to go bad? Or any other internal problems as a result of shooting less power to the accessories?

[lowflyn]

First off, welcome to the site from a fellow 02 v6 owner.

You'll probably want to go with intake/exhaust first and foremost. I found that those plus a good suspension made a world of a difference in how my car felt driving down the road. As far as underdrive pulleys, there is no negative effect unless you go with a very high percentage pulley or have a large stereo system. The latter is the reason I don't have u/d pulleys on my car, I have to be able to keep my car charged while idling.

[Drunken Ghost]

Quote: Originally Posted by lowflyn First off, welcome to the site from a fellow 02 v6 owner. You'll probably want to go with intake/exhaust first and foremost. I found that those plus a good suspension made a world of a difference in how my car felt driving down the road. As far as underdrive pulleys, there is no negative effect unless you go with a very high percentage pulley or have a large stereo system. The latter is the reason I don't have u/d pulleys on my car, I have to be able to keep my car charged while idling.

Thanks for the welcome.

I've heard the debate on the exhaust, regarding H and Y pipes... Im assuming from what I gathered it's best to run true duel exhaust correct? And regarding CAI, any specific parts you would recommend? I've trolled around ebay, and found quite a bit, but if im going to spend the money on it... I want results, not some shoddy part that will half ass the job. Thanks

[SpectorV]

If you are going to do exhaust do it right. Buy a GT take off or another brand of GT mustang catback and a pacesetter or steeda dual exhaust adaptor (not needed as it can be fabed, but these allow you to bolt/unbolt the exhaust to work on the car etc) and have a shop put in the catback.

The stock v6s run mid 15s with a manual and 16.0s in an auto. You can definatly do a good bit to them there are some running 9s in the quarter so the ability is there.

[SpectorV]

you do not need a balancer pipe on a v6 as it is even fire as well, it wont hurt anything but its not needed. You should not expect to see massive gains from a bolt on. Exhaust, cai, under drive pulley, tune, and other such bolt ons usually yeild under 10rwhp/tq and most around 5rwhp/tq. The real power is in the heads/intakes/cam.

Rear end gears REALLY wake the car up but dont add any hp/tq.

[Drunken Ghost]

Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV you do not need a balancer pipe on a v6 as it is even fire as well, it wont hurt anything but its not needed. You should not expect to see massive gains from a bolt on. Exhaust, cai, under drive pulley, tune, and other such bolt ons usually yeild under 10rwhp/tq and most around 5rwhp/tq. The real power is in the heads/intakes/cam. Rear end gears REALLY wake the car up but dont add any hp/tq.

I figured as much, but it is kind of a pre-req for headers etc right? From my estimates I will be getting 30rwhp for around 800 bucks worth of work... it seems small but worth the work right?

[neatofrito1618]

Quote: Originally Posted by Drunken Ghost I figured as much, but it is kind of a pre-req for headers etc right? From my estimates I will be getting 30rwhp for around 800 bucks worth of work... it seems small but worth the work right?

You dont really have a lot to work with, I would start off with gears and a couple bolt on's, thats the best thing you can do for a $800 budget.

[Zim]

best thing for lots of hp is nitrous

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by Drunken Ghost I figured as much, but it is kind of a pre-req for headers etc right? From my estimates I will be getting 30rwhp for around 800 bucks worth of work... it seems small but worth the work right?

30rwhp from what???

Cold Air Intake 2-5 hp max
Under drive pulley 3-6 max
Dual Exhaust on a stock V6 2hp
SCT tune around 10hp

The real world dyno will show around 16-18hp gain. The problem is you really can add the hp up to find true hp. That is ricer math.

Dont waste money on headers unless you arev going to install a Supercharger/Turbocharger and need them. The stock manifolds are good to 250-300 hp. If you really want headers just go find some 94-98 stock header they can be had cheap. The 94-98's basically came stock with shorty headers.

[SpectorV]

you get more than 2hp from exhaust, not a ton but there are plenty dynos around that show 6-7 ~

[DarkShadow]

I would get a long term plan lined up for your car before you buy the first part. I wasted money on bolt on's only to have to take them off when I went FI. Just some food for thought. If you plan on going on all motor or just want a little extra power they will be fine.

[SpectorV]

yea decide what you want, REAL LIFE EXPECTATIONS on what you are willing to invest in the car and realize that moding brings issues... its not all fun and games.

[Drunken Ghost]

Alright I decided on BBK CAI, Now I want to do exhaust anyone want to point me in the right direction on specific products...

Short term im thinking:

CAI
Exhaust
Couple of aesthetic exterior things i want to get done
Underdrive Pulleys
Tuner

Sound about right? I was also thinking headers, but have heard debate that they are useless until about 250 -300 HP... any gains prior?

[slvr2000stang]

That is a good start.

[DarkShadow]

I have a pulley for sale....

Free plug :whistle:

[Drunken Ghost]

To restate my question from earlier:

Exhaust: True Duel right? Any recommendations as far as brand and size?

[DarkShadow]

If I were you, I would just have a shop custom build your set up. I just don't see paying extra for a brand of pipe. I would run 2 1/4, unless you plan on big power in the future, if so, go with 2.5 and just pick out a muffler type you like.

[Sublime782]

For exhaust, definatly go to a reputable local shop and have them fab up and exhaust for you. When you buy a catback system from say magnaflow or borla, you're paying waaaaay too much money for it....all you're really paying extra for are the pipes...lol. Anyway, go to a local shop, find the mufflers you like the sound of the best, and the shop will make one for you. Like the last post said, sitck with 2.14 inch piping....if you want to go bigger, the MAX you want would be 2.5 inch piping. As for mufflers, I suggest taking a look at Magnaflow mufflers for the exhaust. THas what I have on my car and I did a lot of research and listening to other mufflers before I made a choice. Bottom line, though, is pick a muffler with the soound you like!

ALso, good list of mods. I would definalty take a look at doing gears and a psoi unit your for you. Definalty work the money. No hp gains but helps your car to really haul some ass off of the line. I'm saying this because you're looking at getting a tune. If you're going to get a tune, throw in the gears and posi before ya do it, as youe car should be re-tuned to correct rhe speedo issues for the gears. As far as gears go, if you have a manual go with 3.73 gears and if ya have an automatic tranny, go with 4.10

If you're car is a manual, I also suggest going with a short throw shifter. easy to install, easy to get a hold of, and you can find them for a great price uf ya shop around.

Good luck on the modding and try to get some of it installed yourself...saves ya money and it's satisfying!

Cheers,
James

[Drunken Ghost]

Alright i've been debating this for the past week or so.

I was thinking about running stage system that is stickied at the top of the forum, and I just don't see the point in using UD pulleys CAI if after you complete stage 4 you just rip take off most of the bolt-ons anyways.

Why not just skip to the Turbo and Tune? Or what SHOULD be done before you drop in the turbo? From what I understand Dark Shadow just threw in his on a completely stock engine.

It may be kind of a dumb question but researching around I felt like I needed to ask.

Be gentle.

[DarkShadow]

Quote: Originally Posted by Drunken Ghost Alright i've been debating this for the past week or so. I was thinking about running stage system that is stickied at the top of the forum, and I just don't see the point in using UD pulleys CAI if after you complete stage 4 you just rip take off most of the bolt-ons anyways. Why not just skip to the Turbo and Tune? Or what SHOULD be done before you drop in the turbo? From what I understand Dark Shadow just threw in his on a completely stock engine. It may be kind of a dumb question but researching around I felt like I needed to ask. Be gentle.

That's why you need to make a plan for what results you want to see when you are done. I wasted money on bolt on's in retrospect because I ended up taking ALL of them off.

As far as a stock engine with a poweradder. It's been proven several times now that the 3.8 can take a lot pressure not just by me but by many people. I will not tell you to not worry about building the engine however. If you have the money, I would do that also, this way you have no worries/less worries and can put down more boost than you could with a stock motor. I will eventually build the motor so I can run more boost, but I dont worry about it right now becasue I have a safe tune. That's the biggest thing, making sure whatever you do, it is tuned by people who know what they are doing.

[Drunken Ghost]

Quote: Originally Posted by DarkShadow That's why you need to make a plan for what results you want to see when you are done. I wasted money on bolt on's in retrospect because I ended up taking ALL of them off. As far as a stock engine with a poweradder. It's been proven several times now that the 3.8 can take a lot pressure not just by me but by many people. I will not tell you to not worry about building the engine however. If you have the money, I would do that also, this way you have no worries/less worries and can put down more boost than you could with a stock motor. I will eventually build the motor so I can run more boost, but I dont worry about it right now becasue I have a safe tune. That's the biggest thing, making sure whatever you do, it is tuned by people who know what they are doing.

The only reason why I would want to Turbo/Super Charge first (Still haven't figured out which...) is because that's where you see the biggest gain, why not Charge then build the engine etc? Especially when it comes to exhaust... It doesn't make sense to get big huge pipes when your not adding any power? It's like your not taking advantage of them until you start really seeing gains? ami right or whattdya think?

[bbunt302]

Quote: Originally Posted by Drunken Ghost The only reason why I would want to Turbo/Super Charge first (Still haven't figured out which...) is because that's where you see the biggest gain, why not Charge then build the engine etc? Especially when it comes to exhaust... It doesn't make sense to get big huge pipes when your not adding any power? It's like your not taking advantage of them until you start really seeing gains? ami right or whattdya think?

When they say "build the engine", they aren't referring to things like CAI, exhaust, pulleys, etc. They mean build the bottom end of the engine so that it will be able to withstand the boost from the turbo or supercharger. This will mean a forged crank, rods, pistons, etc. Basically a rebuild of the engine with parts that are designed to stand up to the extra stress put on them.

[Drunken Ghost]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 When they say "build the engine", they aren't referring to things like CAI, exhaust, pulleys, etc. They mean build the bottom end of the engine so that it will be able to withstand the boost from the turbo or supercharger. This will mean a forged crank, rods, pistons, etc. Basically a rebuild of the engine with parts that are designed to stand up to the extra stress put on them.

No I did understand that. As long as it's tuned right though... you should be okay? But as far as the other external mods such as bolt ons... they aren't even used at that point right? And other modifications like Headers and Exhaust won't even benefit until your pushing more power anyways.

Or am I completely wrong? Im seriously just trying to understand, it just feels like the system in which everyone does everything is a bit skewed. I really didn't know anything about performance and tuning until I bought my stang. I stuck to oil changes, tires, and brakes

[bbunt302]

Don't believe people that say everything will be ok as long as the tune is right. To an extent it's true. It definitely helps to have the tune right. But you reach a point where the bottom end can no longer hold up to the power regardless of how well the car is tuned.

[DarkShadow]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 Don't believe people that say everything will be ok as long as the tune is right. To an extent it's true. It definitely helps to have the tune right. But you reach a point where the bottom end can no longer hold up to the power regardless of how well the car is tuned.

Yes, it doesn't matter how safe the tune is, the engine can still only take so much. 11psi is about the highest I would go with a stock motor.

The reason why people pull off their bolt on's when they get a poweradder is because the charger usualy replaces most of it. Like SC's and turbo's, they replace your intake so you would have to get rid of any CAI you might have gotten. With SC's you have to remove an underdrive pulley if you have one. With turbo's you can still use a UDP, but I would not because I would want the water pump to see full operation because of all the extra heat.

Plus when you have something making that much power, I for one, would not really care too much about a 3 or 4 Hp from the bolt on.

With the exhaust, if you do plan on a poweradder, I would save your money and just get the exhaust done big enough when you are ready for charger. Otherwise you will pay for it once, and then again to have bigger pipes plumbed.

Just my .02, but I know it's hard to live with the stock exhaust.

[STEVE]

Do gears and a t-lok along with a tune.

[Drunken Ghost]

Quote: Originally Posted by STEVE Do gears and a t-lok along with a tune.

Forgive my ignorance... but what do Gears mean? And about the TLok, is it better to get one used or new? I've found some solid deals on the cheap TLock, but i would assume that wouldn't be wise to buy used.

[lowflyn]

Gears referrs to changing your rear end gear ratio by buying a new ring and pinion set. Right now your car has 3.27 as the rear end ratio. By going to a 4.10 or 3.73 rear end ratio, you will see an increased acceleration rate because for every turn of the engine, the rear end is turning over more times. This will lower your top speed and lead to a higher rpm being run to achieve the same mph.
Take for example, 70 mph in overdrive. You are currently running around 2100 rpms, with 3.73's or 4.10's you will be running over 2500 rpms at least at 70 mph.

I must say though, gears are one of the best "butt dyno" gains you can do. It is an immediate improvement in acceleration.

As far as a t-lok, if it was me, I'd go new, just to know it is not messed up or anything wrong with it. I believe it's worth the extra money now to prevent having to spend more money in the future just to buy a new t-lok on the second go round.

Lastly, in order to correct your speedometer with gears installed, you will need a new tune. vmptuning, one of the site sponsors is one of the best around. I'm currently running a xcal2 with 3 tunes from vmp and I am very pleased with both.

[Danger Dude]

A really good tuner like Justin or other well regarded tuners know the limits of stock bottom end and will not subject your engine to anything abouve it unless you insist. I have seen tuners try to talk customers out of getting outrageous and yet the customers insist and things go boom!!!!

[DarkShadow]

If you get a T-lock, I would not get a Ford unit. I would get either the Detroit or the Auburn unit. The Ford one is a pos.

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by DarkShadow If you get a T-lock, I would not get a Ford unit. I would get either the Detroit or the Auburn unit. The Ford one is a pos.

No No No the ford unit is not bad. You just have to take care of it. I change my gear lube every year. I dont think you have to upgrade the T-loc unless you are going after major HP, plan to drag race and you plan to put down the torque to constantly lift the front end.

[DarkShadow]

If he plans on a form of forced induction, I would not even consider the Ford unit.

[neatofrito1618]

Quote: Originally Posted by DarkShadow If he plans on a form of forced induction, I would not even consider the Ford unit.

But on a bolt on/geared car the Ford T-loc is fine.

[DarkShadow]

Quote: Originally Posted by neatofrito1618 But on a bolt on/geared car the Ford T-loc is fine.

That's true, but the point of this thread is telling him what to do so he does it right the first time for a long term plan. Like he has said, he is thinking about forced induction. So, therefore, if it were me, I would save the money I would waste on the Ford unit and get something better that will hold up to the power he wants to make later.

[SpectorV]

I you are doing it right the first time, get an oem 8.8 rear from ford brand new and have a set of gears put in if you want gears use ford racing gears and have them put in by a pro.