Trying to Save Stock Motor

[bluemustang]

So I figured I ask here for some advice.

2 summers ago I felt I blew the motor when I had a supercharger on it had it spill all the oil and whatever what nots. So I turned the car back motor wise back to stock.

Just recently I figured out what blew was the oil sending pressure unit. Fixed it also did a tune up on it and she was back to purring.

Only thing is if I get to stop sign or something my car instantly shuts off. I thought it was the battery cause the tray was broken but I ghetto rigged it and got new terminals on the battery cables and still does the same thing

I was saving for a new block but just had some things come up that I had to use a good amount of it. So im fucked and just trying to make this motor back to the norm so to speak so I can actually cruise damnit.

So any ideas of what I should look at would be great honestly.

[Cajun JungleBoy]

yea i got a good idea... give me the old blower.

[Cajun JungleBoy]

ill throw it on the '81 8)

[bluemustang]

yeah ah if you were around here 2 years ago or so you'd know i sold it then

[Cajun JungleBoy]

damnit... only been here a year :-P

[Matthew]

Try setting your throttle body up as follows:

- Let the car idle, and while idling, pull the wiring harness from the IAC valve.
- If the car continues to idle at about the same speed, it's set fine.
- If the car stalls when you disconnect the IAC, adjust the throttle body using the throttle stop screw until the car idles at the target speed with the IAC disconnected.
- Once the throttle adjustment is complete, use a voltmeter to help you adjust the TPS sensor to read a little below 1V at idle. I like .95V, but bear in mind that the voltage will increase slightly as the sensor heats up.
- Once the TPS adjustment is complete, you are done.

This procedure often helps with the "stalls at traffic lights" problem. There are also settings in the computer to help deal with it, but if you have a more or less stock engine and throttle body setup, you should not need a reprogrammed computer to make it work right.

Good luck.

-Matthew

[SpectorV]

Quote: Originally Posted by Cajun JungleBoy damnit... only been here a year :-P

yea, thats the problem buying a blower from a guy for a car that you wouldnt have had....

[svtlx]

like matt said...check the iac...idle air control. check with voltmeter like matt said. however, u may not have an adjustable tps. i wouldn't advise messing with it till u know wut u r doing and exactly wut a tps does. u shouldn't have to touch the throttle stop unless it has backed out on its' own. if you do adjust the throttle stop, i would advise u to put some thread tape on the bolt so it doesn't back out on u later....you can get a i.a.c. from a junk yard just see if it is the iac before u spend big money for a new one. it doesnt have to come off of a 5.0, they are very interchangable...i have used escort iac's and currently running one from an expedition. if all the holes are in the right place and the plug is tthe same u can use it.....i'm almost positive you have an iac issue..........

thanks matt,...now i know wut voltage to set my tps @

[bluemustang]

Quote: Originally Posted by Matthew Try setting your throttle body up as follows: - Let the car idle, and while idling, pull the wiring harness from the IAC valve. - If the car continues to idle at about the same speed, it's set fine. - If the car stalls when you disconnect the IAC, adjust the throttle body using the throttle stop screw until the car idles at the target speed with the IAC disconnected. - Once the throttle adjustment is complete, use a voltmeter to help you adjust the TPS sensor to read a little below 1V at idle. I like .95V, but bear in mind that the voltage will increase slightly as the sensor heats up. - Once the TPS adjustment is complete, you are done. This procedure often helps with the "stalls at traffic lights" problem. There are also settings in the computer to help deal with it, but if you have a more or less stock engine and throttle body setup, you should not need a reprogrammed computer to make it work right. Good luck. -Matthew

Ill have to try this out this weekend then.

also got suggested these things too

Quote: look into wiring... loose coil wires? loose ground?

Quote: You're motor isn't the issue... if you are doing hard braking and it's stalling it could be a power issue like tony is saying... check grounds, check the voltage that your ALT is giving out... You gotta remember when you are hard on those brakes, that's all vac... could be a vac related issue as well... If your motor was on it's way out, you would be having other symptoms...

Quote: Check the air inlet tract for damage, cracks, etc. Most common cause in my experience.

Quote: One thing is the hard stop idle setting proceedure and cleaning the throttle body and the IAC or a new IAC.

[Matthew]

Come to think of it, the other typical problem is that the IAC valve is gummed up and won't move correctly. If you pull it off and spray it with carb cleaner and ensure that it moves freely you may also solve the problem. You can usually get the gasket at Ford or any parts store.

Really, the problem you have sounds like a control problem, not a fundamental issue with the motor, so it's either a gummed up IAC, throttle position setup problem, or something similar.

It seems like the throttle stop wouldn't back out, but a wrong setup on the throttle body is typical if the car has been modified, and especially when an aftermarket throttle body is used. That doesn't mean the stop backed off, just that it is not right for the rest of the setup. I've owned quite a few of these cars, and I tune a lot of them on the dyno, and the first step is always to check the throttle setup because if that is not right, you will just chase your tail with the computer setup.

Good luck.

-Matthew

[bluemustang]

you know I tried getting off the throttlebody before and it would not come off for the life of me. it looked like it was literally glued on the intake.

Ive cleaned the IAC because the car sat and it wouldnt idle for the life of me but once I did that and few things the car actually idles fine without dieing like it did before.

[bbunt302]

Here's the correct way to reset your idle by the way:

1. Disconnect the battery's negative terminal to reset/clear the computer's memory. Leave it disconnected for 30 minutes. WARNING: Whenever removing your battery cables ALWAYS disconnect the negative battery cable first and reconnect it last. Otherwise you could destroy your computer or cause a battery explosion.
2. Disconnect the plug going to your idle motor which is located on the front of your throttle body.
3. Reconnect your battery's negative terminal.
4. Start the engine, and set the idle to the rpm you want with the stop screw on the bottom of the throttle body.
5. Turn off the engine.
6. Reconnect the plug on the idle motor
7. Make sure all accesories (radio, blower motor, a/c, lights, etc) are off and start the engine.
8. Let engine run for two minutes.
9. Turn engine off and wait two minutes then restart engine and let idle for two minutes with all accesories on.