Trying to diagnose rear (Again!)

[Thomas91169]

well its (the sound) is coming back now. its time to fix it, with two cars, i can now stick whichever one in the garage and fix it the right way without worrying about how im getting to work in the morning. i figured i would start the cheapest solution and work the way up to the most expensive (rear end rebuild, 4.1's). the problem is this, for those not in the "know". there is a real loud "moan" that comes from the rear when you move away from a stop. alot like metal to metal contact on brakes but reverse, it lets up as you go faster.

my first solution is to replace the rear shoes and discs.

upon jacking up the rear by the pumpkin (its the only place i can get the jack at to lift the rear, dam side exhaust and side skirts), i had a hunch. i moved the wheels, and i was able to, within perfect ability, replicate the noise. its coming from the disc area of the passenger side.

now heres the strange part. when i took the pass wheel off and spun the axle, the sound went away almost entirely, but you could still feel the axle get "tight" in that spot (it took two hands to turn instead of one) where it would usually make the noise. i put the wheel back on, and the noise comes back. keep the wheel on but loosen the lugs so theyre finger tight, noise goes away.

after i eat this awesome dinner of Panda Express, i will swap the old with the new rotor and see what happens. i am also charging my video cam, if this does not work, ill post a video.

[MarkuzLS1]

Bearing?

[Thomas91169]

possibly, im uploading a quick video to a ftp to host. i dont know yet how quick the bandwidth is though.

if i can cancel out the brakes being the issue, then gears will be ordered. i already have the motive master rebuild kit (got it like a long ass time ago, 40$) so i just need to get gears and take it to a shop.

i dunno if this will work, im guessing its gonna ask for a password:
ftp://u40446656-motech:QT45Y65@motec...arEnd_0001.wmv

[Thomas91169]

definately interesting.......

took off the rotor and caliper and stuck the wheel on (used a spacer to recreate the offset from the missing rotor) and no sound and no tighness in any areas. stuck the rotor on with no caliper and still no sound nor tightness.

[Thomas91169]

stupid fucking calipers

even with the tool they just spin in the same spot, now i guess ill have to hunt down new calipers, again.

[Thomas91169]

yeah i fucking give up. wtf is up with these goddamn fucking calipers and who the fuck's idea was it to make them so fucking rediculously impossible to work on?

[ridenmystang]

Yeah just put some blinker fluid in them. Maybe im a just aliittle frunk hehee

[Thomas91169]

wow lol i guess......

[1996stang]

Quote: Originally Posted by ridenmystang Yeah just put some blinker fluid in them. Maybe im a just aliittle frunk hehee

not sure that will fix it

[Thomas91169]

jesus h christ.

finally got the piston back in, had to take the caliper off entirely, stick it on my bench vise, and push against the piston and turn with all my weight.

got the new rotors and pads on, bled the caliper, and pulled the sheath off the lugs (to make them open lugs) and tightened the rotor to the hub like it is with the wheels there.

NO SOUND!

however i claimed victory too early. went to the store to pick up some monster and jager and who wouldve thunk, ITS BACK!

i think ill call a buddy over tomorrow and rip out the axles and replace the axle bearings now.

[bullitt482]

I know you said even with the tool it spun in place, but isn't the tool threaded so the piston had to go in?


My other advice would be to just replace the caliper. Sounds to me like it's not resetting itself when you let off the brake. Oh, and another trick i've heard is when it sticks, is to go in reverse 5 or 10 mph then hit the brake "briskly." It worked on my grand am, but have yet to try it in the stang.

[Thomas91169]

well the tool "Kit" comes with a bit that you can hook the various piston "drivers" straight to a 3/8 drive.

the actual piston compressor sits between the caliper and piston, so it slides between the two prongs opposite to the actual piston side of the caliper, and then you turn the handle and it spreads apart, but since one part of the piston doesnt move like the piston side does, it turns and compresses the piston at the same time. trouble was, my piston was so far extended the tool would not fit between the caliper prongs and the piston. so i stuck it in the vice and put as much of my force against it and used the driver tool and got the piston back in.

i doubt its these calipers. remember, i had the noise once with the calipers that came with the car when i bought it (the noise came about a year after the purchase), ive already replaced the caliper, rotor and shoes once trying to diagnose this last time, so i really dont think these calipers are bad. plus i was stupid last time, i thought my original set of calipers were frozen, because i was just using the C-Clamp method (you know, the one that works on every other car on the road) and since that didnt work and i didnt know they needed to be turned in, i figured they were frozen and bought the new set, which is the set of calipers i have on there now, and theyve only been in use for around 6 months.

i just put the new hardware on the drivers side and rode it for a while and no sound. im not gonna claim victory yet though.....

[bullitt482]

Hmm... You got me man. Unless it's your master cylinder not releasing pressure when you release the brakes. Other than that

[Thomas91169]

dam drove it all day to and from work and still no sound.......