QA1 K-Member installed

[PureVenom]

For search sakes, I am going to post up about my K-Member install experience last night....and since it was on the cobra, I'll post it here.

Basically, I installed my QA1 K-Member last night and re-used my stock A-Arms (or are they called control arms? ).

Well, first of all, you have to grind about 3/8" off your stock arms in order to clear the k-member at full extension and full compression.

Secondly, using the stock arms, your front wheels will be pushed out about a full inch on each side. This will be ok for now until I can pick up some shorter tubular a-arms. I am thinking I will need to pick up some fox A-Arms instead of 99+ as I need them to be shorter. I am confirming that with some research as we speak.

Thirdly, I had to remove my front lowering springs. With the H&R's in there, the fender sat on top of the tire. For reference, I used to have about 1.5" clearance between the top of the tire and the fender. That went to 0. So, I swapped them out with the stock cobra coupe spring I had sitting around...and this raised the fender off the tire. Oddly enough, I now have 1.5" gap again. I guess this is pretty cool that you don't need to cut your stock springs to get a lowered stance.

Over all, I am not too impressed with this k-member. It is a solid piece, but they definitely did not do their R&D when they built this unit. Sure, the bolt holes are perfect, but the geometry of it is definitely off. My overall recommendation for anyone would be to look into the UPR or maximum motorsports setup. I bought this one on recommendation from the local shop in prep for long tubes.

I will post up some pics later of where the tires sit in relation to the fender lip. They need to be pulled in about 3/4-1" on both sides....but I am going to hold off on that for the time being while I decide whether or not I will keep this unit. I may just replace it all with the complete UPR chrome molly kit with arms...I'm not sure yet.

I'm also working on the writeup.

[PureVenom]

Pics of the install / results ...

Keep in mind...this drop...which is at the same height as the H&R springs....is the result of bone stock cobra coupe springs...un cut.

[JROC]

I've heard some people say they liked their QA1, and UPR k-members and some people say that they don't like them. The only negative comment that I've heard about the MM k-member is its heavy as far as aftermarket k-members go, but that it is about the best aftermarket k-member for a streetcar as that heft translates into it being very strong.

If I'm not mistake you can get MM control arms that will put your wheels in either the stock location or you can get them too move your wheels forward about a .75" to give you a better weight distabution. Will MM control arms work with you new k-member?

Anyway congrats. I hope you end up liking it.

BTW the factory control arms look like crap. I might have to anti up for some MM ones.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by JROC I've heard some people say they liked their QA1, and UPR k-members and some people say that they don't like them. The only negative comment that I've heard about the MM k-member is its heavy as far as aftermarket k-members go, but that it is about the best aftermarket k-member for a streetcar as that heft translates into it being very strong. If I'm not mistake you can get MM control arms that will put your wheels in either the stock location or you can get them too move your wheels forward about a .75" to give you a better weight distabution. Will MM control arms work with you new k-member? Anyway congrats. I hope you end up liking it. BTW the factory control arms look like crap. I might have to anti up for some MM ones.

Based on my investigation...I won't be keeping it.

I can't use proper a-arms as they will keep my wheels sticking outside the fender...I need to pull them in some. To do so will require fox a-arms...however that introduces some additional issues with tie rod angles, sway bar stuff...etc.

I'm going to go with the UPR chrome moly setup with the A-Arms and convert to coil over. It's like $699 for the whole deal (K, A-arms, and coil conversion with springs)...that will end up costing me about the same as what just the MM k-member will run...

I'm also going to add a MM k-member brace...

[JROC]

Quote: Originally Posted by PureVenom I'm also going to add a MM k-member brace...

Are you sure it will bolt on? It bolts to the holes that the factory brace is bolted to + two additional holes.

I agree that the UPR k-memeber/A-arm/coilover package is a very good deal.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by JROC Are you sure it will bolt on? It bolts to the holes that the factory brace is bolted to + two additional holes. I agree that the UPR k-memeber/A-arm/coilover package is a very good deal.

It bolts up to stock and aftermarket kmembers. It works with the MM k-member, which is the same design as all the other tubulars...so it will work with them as well. I just need to decide if I am going long tubes or mids...as it won't play nice with long tubes...

[JROC]

Quote: Originally Posted by PureVenom I just need to decide if I am going long tubes or mids...as it won't play nice with long tubes...

Yeah, I don't think the brace lets you run LT's, but I might be mistaken.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by JROC Yeah, I don't think the brace lets you run LT's, but I might be mistaken.

Longtubes = no with the 4 point brace...you have to get the 2 point brace instead.

[JROC]

Quote: Originally Posted by PureVenom Longtubes = no with the 4 point brace...you have to get the 2 point brace instead.

Does MM make one? Who else make a 2 point brace besides the factory one?

BTW does the Bassani Mid-lengths have a problem leaking, someone was telling me they did, but I prefer many things about the mid-lengths over LT's.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by JROC Does MM make one? Who else make a 2 point brace besides the factory one? BTW does the Bassani Mid-lengths have a problem leaking, someone was telling me they did, but I prefer many things about the mid-lengths over LT's.

With the bassani gaskets...yes. With another style of gasket, no, they won't. I forgot the type off hand, but it is in my PM box on svtp...there is also a thread about it over there.

MM makes a 2 point...it is for up to 95s...but they talk generically like it will fit the current as well...

[bbunt302]

Yeah... After you get the UPR and decide you don't like it either, you can get rid of it and spring for the MM piece. That way you can say you've had all thee and that the MM was by far the best.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 Yeah... After you get the UPR and decide you don't like it either, you can get rid of it and spring for the MM piece. That way you can say you've had all thee and that the MM was by far the best.

Yup...I could give my experienced opinion then.

[SpectorV]

yup I have heard horror stories about it cracking as well. i would have went mm but... its to late now lol just keep a really good eye on it.

[PureVenom]

Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV yup I have heard horror stories about it cracking as well. i would have went mm but... its to late now lol just keep a really good eye on it.

This was the one recommended back in january when parts were ordered...yeah, obviously someone isn't in the loop....as he just recommended it to another owner as well.

I'm not going to go with the MM unit since it costs as much as the UPR unit will with everything...

All reports I have seen have the UPR being a great options...

[Thomas91169]

dude seriously i think you need a new sig. didnt even know you got FR500's