Hot Brakes

[Ssstang]

Ok, so here it goes. I replaced the front rotors and pads. Went online, read many threads and I've got to say, it's been a lot of help. And having the right tools helps a bunch. So I just got back from a car wash and was about to start working on the rims for that added shine that's when I noticed a bit of steam coming from the front wheel as I was hosing the rims. The right side seems to be ok but the driver side was pretty hot. I have about 150k and it has the original calipers. Should I replace the calipers? I only say this because, the driver side caliper was a bitch to remove. Plus, compressing the piston was no joke. I followed the manual to a tee plus the many suggestions on this forum, did I overlook anything? Help.

[lowflyn]

It's just the brakes getting hot...nothing to worry about.

[mustero]

I'd keep an eye on it. It could be just normal brake heat but it could also be a bad caliper.Usually compressing the caliper shouldn't be that difficult,unless the piston is jacked.

[Ssstang]

Thanks for the replies. I will keep my eye on it. Today it wasn't as bad but I'm sure down the line I will need to replace the front calipers. I will do a search and see what the forum recommends.

[crazeflier07]

Could it be that the pad is pressed up against the rotor and not seated right? Got loose or something? I would keep an eye on it as well since they do help you stop. lol.
~Jon~

[MonteCitan]

when you compressed the piston did you open the bleeder screw then press? or did you just let it run back up into the master cylinder?

If it was hard to compress with the bleeder screw open you at least need to rebuild the caliper, or replace it

Did you lubricate the slide pins with silicone brake caliper grease when you put it all together?

Does the car roll freely when off the brakes/car in neutral?

Does the car pull one way or another when you hit the brakes with decent force?

[Ssstang]

Quote: Originally Posted by MonteCitan when you compressed the piston did you open the bleeder screw then press? or did you just let it run back up into the master cylinder? If it was hard to compress with the bleeder screw open you at least need to rebuild the caliper, or replace it Did you lubricate the slide pins with silicone brake caliper grease when you put it all together? Does the car roll freely when off the brakes/car in neutral? Does the car pull one way or another when you hit the brakes with decent force?

It was hard to compress with the bleeder screw open.
I lubricated the slide pins.
Car rolls freely when in neutral.
The car does not pull one way.

This weekend I will check the condition of the brake pad and rotor. I'm still leaning towards new front calipers. The car is 8 yrs old,150k and it's daily driver. I just thought I can hold off a month as I am also working on my other car, but brakes are a priority.

[Ssstang]

Here's an update-

the caliper needed to be replaced. Everything is back to normal. Now I have to deal with the infamous P0411.

[MonteCitan]

At least you solved that
good luck with the SAI code though

[jedwards242000]

just a note brake rotors getting to about 100 -150 is normal especially after stop and go driving could actually get hotter.

[SpectorV]

if one of your front brakes were sticking you would know. you would also see much more brake dust on that side.

[Ssstang]

Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV if one of your front brakes were sticking you would know. you would also see much more brake dust on that side.

I'm sorry for not including that information in my findings, but yes, I did find a lot more brake dust on that side.

[Kendellgil]

Might want to be careful about spraying cold water on excessively hot brake rotors as well, just a precaution.