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12-19-2003, 11:45 AM
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#1
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Suspension Kit for my car under $300
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Long Lost Adm1n
Join Date: Jul 2003
City: Northern Virginia
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w00t w00t I just got my Xmas bonus from work... $300!!! Well... $277 after taxes, but close enough!
Anyways... one of the things I'm planning on doing after I get my tax return in January is of course new wheels and tires. But I had also planned to save money from now until then to get a suspension upgrade/kit for my car.
Well... now that I have nearly $300, that might be enough to get the new suspension now!!
I had looked at Steeda's Stage 1 kit (springs, caster/camber plates, and strut tower brace) which I believe goes for a little over $400 on the Steeda site. I guess what I'm more concerned with here is better handeling, cause quite honestly, Mustangs handle like crap!!
So what do you all think? Another important thing to consider is my body kit. My front bumper already sits very low to the ground, so I don't want to lower too much. I believe the Steeda springs are 1.0-1.25 inches. Is this correct?
And if anyone has any other recommendations, please let me know.  Thank you!
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12-19-2003, 03:25 PM
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#2
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Long Lost Adm1n
Join Date: Jul 2003
City: Northern Virginia
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http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=275
What do you all think of that? For less than the Steeda kit... it seems to give soooo much more!
What's the quality like though? Cause these are supposed to be the same Ford parts put on the GT Bullits. Are these as good quality as something like Steeda or Eibach?
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12-19-2003, 08:34 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
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Quality wise they are pretty much the same in most aspects.
There are better dampers out there but tokico's aren't bad. Its a good starter suspension I'd say.
__________________
1998 Subaru Legacy L Sedan
New Hottness
1999 V6 5-speed
14.6 @ 95 w/ 2.22 60'
Wrecked
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12-20-2003, 12:05 AM
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#4
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Needs turbo.
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Mt. Juliet
State: Tennessee
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Well not everyon can afford Konis.
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12-20-2003, 03:30 PM
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#5
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Hoover / Florence
State: Alabama
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fms c springs and mach 1 tokicos all around
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2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
MGW Shifter, Stingers, JLT, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC & CC Plates, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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12-21-2003, 02:23 AM
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#6
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Needs turbo.
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Mt. Juliet
State: Tennessee
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I told him he should save alittle more.
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12-21-2003, 03:33 PM
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#7
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Senior Tech Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: Burlington, NC
State: North Carolina
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I would have to ask what kind of sway bars those were personally, might be just regular GT sways, in that case get a pair out of a junk yard for a lot less. Bullitt struts and shocks are probably better all around than MachIs because the Mach I is more for for Drag racing.
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 Rick Kilpatrick, AAS Automotive Systems Tech, Alamance Community College, Class of 99. 06 5 speed manual Mustang with Pony pkg : GT Mac Mufflers, true duals with one custom pipe. 2.5" system. GT bumper cover, all installed March 7&8 2006. AFE Stage 1 CAI, Motoblue Underdrive pulley, GT aluminum shifter knob, honeycomb rear blackout panel,and dash kit installed. Roush hood scoop and side window louvers installed. SS taillight trim has been installed, new alum. GT steering wheel installed.
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12-25-2003, 05:41 AM
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#8
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Needs turbo.
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Mt. Juliet
State: Tennessee
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Really for every say use you just need the GT rear sway bar.
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12-26-2003, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Tech Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: Burlington, NC
State: North Carolina
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Contrary to popular belief on this and 3.8 for some reason, matched sway bars, in my humble opinion, are much superior to unbalanced ones, its much better to have front and rear sway bars that match than to have a v6 front bar and a GT or cobra rear bar. Take note of my mods list, both my sway bars are COBRA bars, not a cobra rear and a GT front bar.
__________________
 Rick Kilpatrick, AAS Automotive Systems Tech, Alamance Community College, Class of 99. 06 5 speed manual Mustang with Pony pkg : GT Mac Mufflers, true duals with one custom pipe. 2.5" system. GT bumper cover, all installed March 7&8 2006. AFE Stage 1 CAI, Motoblue Underdrive pulley, GT aluminum shifter knob, honeycomb rear blackout panel,and dash kit installed. Roush hood scoop and side window louvers installed. SS taillight trim has been installed, new alum. GT steering wheel installed.
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12-27-2003, 03:27 AM
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#10
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Needs turbo.
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Mt. Juliet
State: Tennessee
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I'll have to keep that in mind if a Cobra come to the junkyard.
Just remember not to go to big on the sway bars. Don't want ya to pull a SUV here. 
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12-28-2003, 09:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Tech Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: Burlington, NC
State: North Carolina
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I have shortened end links, and my cobra front bar is actually smaller than my GT bar was, but stiffer.
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 Rick Kilpatrick, AAS Automotive Systems Tech, Alamance Community College, Class of 99. 06 5 speed manual Mustang with Pony pkg : GT Mac Mufflers, true duals with one custom pipe. 2.5" system. GT bumper cover, all installed March 7&8 2006. AFE Stage 1 CAI, Motoblue Underdrive pulley, GT aluminum shifter knob, honeycomb rear blackout panel,and dash kit installed. Roush hood scoop and side window louvers installed. SS taillight trim has been installed, new alum. GT steering wheel installed.
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12-28-2003, 09:55 PM
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#12
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Senior Tech Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: Burlington, NC
State: North Carolina
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Cobra rear bars have to come off a 98 or older, the 99+ have IRS and won't work.
__________________
 Rick Kilpatrick, AAS Automotive Systems Tech, Alamance Community College, Class of 99. 06 5 speed manual Mustang with Pony pkg : GT Mac Mufflers, true duals with one custom pipe. 2.5" system. GT bumper cover, all installed March 7&8 2006. AFE Stage 1 CAI, Motoblue Underdrive pulley, GT aluminum shifter knob, honeycomb rear blackout panel,and dash kit installed. Roush hood scoop and side window louvers installed. SS taillight trim has been installed, new alum. GT steering wheel installed.
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12-29-2003, 04:16 AM
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#13
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Needs turbo.
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Mt. Juliet
State: Tennessee
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Yea, already knew that. Not that dumb. 
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12-29-2003, 12:39 PM
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#14
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Taking life one day at a time
Join Date: May 2003
City: Simpsonville
State: South Carolina
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Nice kit and a nice price
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01-04-2004, 03:25 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
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I agree with rick, to a point. Remember that these bars are 'matched' on
that car with that weight and they're also matched to give understeer.
I'd rather have a neutral or slightly oversteering car so I would get a
bigger rear bar. It all comes down to if you want under or oversteer and
what other mods you have. Throw in a panhard bar and you have to
change things around even more!
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01-04-2004, 03:44 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
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I second the motion. Then pick up some swaybars and get a good
alignment.
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01-05-2004, 01:19 PM
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#17
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Taking life one day at a time
Join Date: May 2003
City: Simpsonville
State: South Carolina
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I third it !!!!!!!. I would also suggest looking into some C&C plates. after about 6 months I went back for a alignment check ( South Carolina roads are not the best) and they need further adjustment on the alignment and there was no more to adjust I now have UPR Shark Billit C&C Plates.
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