Engine problem, need expert input here!

[ASSEMbler]

I will be pulling the car to a stop.
or
Be pulling up to a light.

As the car slows, it has a slight shudder. The electric, lights, all dim.

Can this be signs of a slipping belt, or a failing/binding alternator?

I have no voltage fluctuation.

It's obviously related to something on the accessory belt as it
doesn't happen at speed.

Kevin

[Rellik]

when that happens do u ever feel a difference in your power steering?

Check the belt, check the tension.

It could be the alternator dieing.

[ASSEMbler]

There's no noticable power steer, but load devices like windows do slow down.

[BlueDonkey]

When you say you have no voltage fluctuation, do you mean the in-dash voltage meter? The dash instruments aren't known for their accuracy....

Better to measure it with a meter.

[ASSEMbler]

well lights dim, gauge looks the same.. That's proven..
There is no belt squeal. How would I test the alternator?

[BlueDonkey]

check the voltage between +12V and chassis ground. I think a working alternator should be running at +13.5V. May not be right. But alternator needs to run more than 12 to charge battery.

OR

remove the alternator and take it to PepBoys/Autozone or other parts place. They should be able to check it out.



As an aside, to those who know, would it be possible that it is putting out the correct voltage, but isn't putting out enough current?

[stangin99]

have autozone or some place similar run a test on your electrical system.

[Danger Dude]

Actually a weak cell in the battery could also be a problem. Like stangin99 said go get the electrical system checked. A weak battery can cause alot of grief.

[Rellik]

When you have those moments when the lights go dim and ect. Does the Battery Light come on in the dash?

[Zim]

yeah check and make sure your battery is full of water too...

[tealstangman]

ya

[ASSEMbler]

The battery light does not come on at all. Is there a way to test the battery without pulling it from the car? It's COLD outside.

[Danger Dude]

well you can go to a auto store or walmart and by a hydrometer. It is a plastic tube with a scale and a bulb at the top and you draw up the fluid in each cell and it will tell you if a cell is dead or not. But the best way is to drive up to autozone and act stupid and they will take it out for you and test it. But you live in NJ they might tell you to GO GET SCREWED !!! :shock:

[Rellik]

sears does diehard service for 12.99

tests alternator, how it charges, battery, starter, some other little things but its 12.99 not free like some other places.

[Danger Dude]

That is not a bad deal Sears has for a electrical system check

[232SCstang]

does the tach reading stay consistent or smooth? i.e. do the rpms fluctuate up and down? My guess would be the alternator. Take it to an auto zone or somethin and have them put a meter on it. Corey, I could be wrong, but I believe the charging system is supposed to be at 14.5 or .6 but I might be wrong. My amp for my stereo tells you the voltage of the cars charging system and mine always has a consistent 14.4-14.7.

[Danger Dude]

As long as it does not go below like 13.5 you are ok. A dying battery cell or altenator or even a dammaged battery cable

[widowvirgin]

Quote: Originally Posted by ASSEMbler I will be pulling the car to a stop. or Be pulling up to a light. As the car slows, it has a slight shudder. The electric, lights, all dim. Can this be signs of a slipping belt, or a failing/binding alternator? I have no voltage fluctuation. It's obviously related to something on the accessory belt as it doesn't happen at speed. Kevin

:oops: First of all is your trans. manual or automatic. In the meanwhile check the alt. belt for proper tension and also the pulley to make sure it is tight and make sure all electrical connections are tight and all grounds are tight, then check output with a voltmeter if you have one. The voltage output should be between 13.1 and 13.5v at idle. Then have someone rev the engine and your output should go up to around 14.3v. If you see no change in the voltage then your alt. is no good. If voltage is good check current with with an ampmeter or dmm. The specifications should be on the alternator. If that is good then load test your batteries with a load tester if you have one. If you have an auto. trans. the problem could be in the trans. but I'm not sure. Also test your sensors, such as your maf, iat, tps and especially your ivs. Is your acceleration smooth or does it do the same as when you slow down? When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

[ASSEMbler]

It's an auto with a kit. The tach stays the same, everything electric goes dead for a sec that is electric, I mean it's an eyeblink. And ONLY in those two situations. But, even at decent rpms, the radio and other devices cut off if one big load like the windows are used.

Acceleration is very good, I only have a CAI , shift kit and exhaust and I can smoke the tires (18x9) in the back. Mind you it's ONE tire (teh one wheel spin = gay) as I bought rims instead of the 8.8..

I'll take it to autozone, they'll test the battery. It's the original POS battery I got in the car.

Since I live in a city environ, I get the works done at a lube place, so all the filters and fluids are consistantly changed on a regular basis.

I'll get back to you after tomorrow when I get the alt /batt checked.

[stangin99]

Its most likely the alternator. I had similar problems, checked everything couldn't figure out what it was. I even had my system checked 3 times at different Autozones and they told me it was fine.


Well, one day I replaced my alternator and it hasn't happened since

[Rellik]

Quote: Originally Posted by ASSEMbler It's an auto with a kit. The tach stays the same, everything electric goes dead for a sec that is electric, I mean it's an eyeblink.

check to see if a terminal connection on the battery is loose.
if either one has any play at all it could be that....

[widowvirgin]

[quote="ASSEMbler"]

. Mind you it's ONE tire (teh one wheel spin = gay) as I bought rims instead of the 8.8..

haha, lol. Well if your battery light doesn't turn on in your dash and you say everything electrical begins to goe dead when you start using other accessories, then I think you have a bad ground. At my job a similar problem would happen. When the driver would turn on his headlights or any other accessory his engine would turn off. When the problem was looked at it was simply a bad ground cable.

[ASSEMbler]

You know how many points the car is grounded at! ha. this sounds like a lot of future fun.

[oaktonarcher]

yea i have this probleme to. when im at a light some times ill press the switch to roll up my window and my car ill shudder. it also happens when i adjust my electric seats. and my cars only like 6 months old. should i take it back to the dealer?

[Brent]

yea I would take it back if its still under warranty. You paid for a warranty use it

[lowflyn]

The car will do that...they'll just look at you and say there's nothing they can do about it. I had someone else point out that on his 02 it shutters cruising at about 35. I noticed the same thing. There are a few small things ford can't do anything about and will feed you a bunch of bs until you leave them alone..

[Tin Kicker]

Amen to that. BS upon BS to no end.

[lowflyn]

I'm sitting at 35,600 and I'm going to make a list of stuff I want fixed and carry it up there. I haven't moved my car all week until I get time to carry it up to ford lol. Not even going to move it this weekend.

[oaktonarcher]

Yea my car only has 4000 miles on it y do I have problemes with it already.
im taking the car back to the dealer to see what bs they give me. thanks for the help