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07-02-2004, 01:09 PM
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#1
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synthetic oil
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State: California
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going to switch to synthetic oil and would like to know every how often would i have to change the oil would i have to get a better oil filter thanks in advance
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07-02-2004, 03:58 PM
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#2
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The 4.2L Guy
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Scumter; Home: Chicago, IL
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Synthetic oils are more stable than convential oils. The reason you change your oil is because it loses it's characteristics and minerals that are added to help protect your engine. Over time and from usage they dissolve. Oil also gathers up dirt and un-burnt fuel. Have you ever noticed when you changed you oil how black it gets? That's from carbon deposits(dirt), and fuel. Finally, you can take convential oil up to about 250* before it loses it's viscosity, and synthetics, you can go up to about 300*. And to finally answer your questions. I would change your oil about every 5000 miles, and I would use a good filter. Try to stay away from the Fram filters, The orange one provides minimal protection, but their other products will be fine. K&N make good oil filters and Wicks? sp? make a very good filter. You can get a Wicks? from NAPA.
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60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-02-2004, 04:11 PM
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#3
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how much are those filters fram is like 5 bucks for the filter
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07-02-2004, 04:13 PM
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#4
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The 4.2L Guy
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like 10 bucks at the most. Remember oil is the blood of the engine. Would you have have a good heart or a heart that will just do.
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60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-02-2004, 04:19 PM
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#5
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damn so its gonna be like 30 bucks every time i change the oil
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07-02-2004, 04:22 PM
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#6
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The 4.2L Guy
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Ya, pretty much. You can go with a synthetic blend if that's too steep. You just need to change the oil about 1000 miles earlier. You can get 5qts for about 10 bucks.
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60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-02-2004, 04:26 PM
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#7
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i could afford it but its just expensive i was thinking mobile 1what do u reccomend
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07-02-2004, 04:47 PM
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#8
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Hoover / Florence
State: Alabama
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run mobile 1 and a ford oil filter and be done with it.
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2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
MGW Shifter, Stingers, JLT, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC & CC Plates, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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07-02-2004, 04:50 PM
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#9
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ford oil filter would be motor craft. i am going to do it on my sisters car too but she has a nissan just run a nissan filter for her car too?
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07-03-2004, 03:13 PM
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#10
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WTF^^...
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i just use a ford filter works good one of the best for the money, dont spend the tons more for a mobile 1 filter when it doesnt really matter that much.
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2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
MGW Shifter, Stingers, JLT, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC & CC Plates, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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07-03-2004, 05:34 PM
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#11
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Registered User
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there's no great oil filter out there.
They are all the same damn thing basically.
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-Charles
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07-03-2004, 10:10 PM
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#12
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Banned
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ive been sticking with the Puroilator Pure 1 filters
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07-03-2004, 11:21 PM
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#13
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Sorry guys... I saw this thread and I just had to put in my 2 cents worth.
I work an awful lot with marine engines -- outboard in particular. Synthetic oil is worth every penny in my field. I have literally seen gearcases fill up with salt water due to a bad seal and, with synthetic, no damage was done to the gears or the shaft getting it back to dock. Remember, an outboard engine is going to run at 3,500 rpm's just cruising and it's running with resistance from the water -- lotsa heat going through a gear that is tops 4 1/2" in diameter.
Synthetic also has an innate ability to coat the parts and maintain viscosity in even the worse conditions. I would strongly suggest from my experience that, for the few dollars difference every 3,000 - 5,000 miles, synthetic is one of the very best things that you can do for the engine. I am not a chemist by any means, but many of the OEM's oils come from St. Rose Louisiana just a few miles from me. Each supplier engineers their own mixture and it is amazing what a huge difference there is between one brand an another coming from the same plant. All meet certain minimum standards, but the top brands are much more consistent with much tighter tolerances. Finally, full synthetics will not "age" as quickly as regular oils so, if your letting your car sit during the week, you will have a more consistent fluid with synthetic three months down the line than you will with standard oil.
As for the filters, there are two main suppliers that set the standard. Champion, which manufactures for some of the OEM's, and WIX. Both of them do a fantastic job. The media (the filtering stuff) that both of these companies use is really a tough standard to meet trying to source from anywhere else. By all means stay away from off-brands many of which are sourced from China. They may look the same but they have not developed a consistent method of matching Champion or Wix yet.
So, the bottom line from my experience is PLEASE use synthetic and either a Champion (OEM) or WIX filter. The few extra dollars are coating every major part in the engine.
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http://www.mustangevolution.com/foru...ine=1089064571
Digger
1999 3.8V6 Convertible in Progress.
Performance: CAI, Magnaflow Dual Catback from ExtremeEffects.com, UDP from VMP (25% ASP), 17x9 Wheels and 275/40 Tires from CrossroadzDirect.com, SCT Tuner from VMP
Exterior: 232 Rear Emblem fromAutobadges.com, Mach 1 Grille Delete, Mach 1 Hood Decal, Rear Bumper Letter Decals, 3 Horse Door Decal, Shorty Antenna (Definite 15 Front Wheel HP!)
Interior: Billet A/C Knobs/Billet Pedals/Billet AOD Knob with O/D Switch (MGW)/Billet Locks/Billet E-brake Handle/Billet Turn Signal cover
Coming up: 4.10 gears from MidwestMustang.com and T-Lok from Gene Evans Ford/Tranny Cooler
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07-03-2004, 11:34 PM
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#14
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City: Jasper, IN
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I run Moble 1, and a K&N Filter, and change my oil every 4000 miles
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07-03-2004, 11:35 PM
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#15
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Christian & proud of it
Join Date: Jun 2004
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State: Texas
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i need to wait 10,000 miles before i convert to synthetic right?
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"The LORD shall judge the people:judge me, O Lord, according to my righteousness, and according to mine integrity that is in me." PSALM 7:8

In Texas? check out www.lonestarstangs.com
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07-03-2004, 11:48 PM
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#16
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Registered User
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City: Metairie, Louisiana
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To Drummer: Excellent choices. I know Mobil holds very tight standards. As far as K&N's filter I can only speculate. I do not want to post misinformation, but I doubt they manufacture their own filters -- they most likely source from Champion or Wix. Regardless, though, they certainly put out outstanding quality. If they are making their own in house (I would be shocked), I would still feel quite comfortable with their quality. If they are out-sourcing, from their record in the industry, I would also feel very comfortable that their requirements are dependable. It is quite likely they are sourcing through Champion or Wix and have agreed with them on particular PERFORMANCE standards. Either way... good choice.
As for Tim... I've never, ever heard of that. I think you're joking but I don't know everything... LOL. I do know that once you change to synthetic is not a good idea to go back -- but I've never heard of anything regarding a mileage limit to put better fluids in your car.
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http://www.mustangevolution.com/foru...ine=1089064571
Digger
1999 3.8V6 Convertible in Progress.
Performance: CAI, Magnaflow Dual Catback from ExtremeEffects.com, UDP from VMP (25% ASP), 17x9 Wheels and 275/40 Tires from CrossroadzDirect.com, SCT Tuner from VMP
Exterior: 232 Rear Emblem fromAutobadges.com, Mach 1 Grille Delete, Mach 1 Hood Decal, Rear Bumper Letter Decals, 3 Horse Door Decal, Shorty Antenna (Definite 15 Front Wheel HP!)
Interior: Billet A/C Knobs/Billet Pedals/Billet AOD Knob with O/D Switch (MGW)/Billet Locks/Billet E-brake Handle/Billet Turn Signal cover
Coming up: 4.10 gears from MidwestMustang.com and T-Lok from Gene Evans Ford/Tranny Cooler
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07-04-2004, 01:39 PM
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#17
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Registered User
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Stallion, after further research you are 100% correct. I learned something new. Here's what I found:
"the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the "break-in" period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a "break-in" oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper "break-in" of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service."
Well done my man! I appreciate you stepping in before TimPryor received bad information.
__________________
http://www.mustangevolution.com/foru...ine=1089064571
Digger
1999 3.8V6 Convertible in Progress.
Performance: CAI, Magnaflow Dual Catback from ExtremeEffects.com, UDP from VMP (25% ASP), 17x9 Wheels and 275/40 Tires from CrossroadzDirect.com, SCT Tuner from VMP
Exterior: 232 Rear Emblem fromAutobadges.com, Mach 1 Grille Delete, Mach 1 Hood Decal, Rear Bumper Letter Decals, 3 Horse Door Decal, Shorty Antenna (Definite 15 Front Wheel HP!)
Interior: Billet A/C Knobs/Billet Pedals/Billet AOD Knob with O/D Switch (MGW)/Billet Locks/Billet E-brake Handle/Billet Turn Signal cover
Coming up: 4.10 gears from MidwestMustang.com and T-Lok from Gene Evans Ford/Tranny Cooler
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07-04-2004, 01:43 PM
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#18
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Toss my salad, please!
Join Date: May 2004
City: Baltimore MD
State: Maryland
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 Ha it costs like 45 for me to do mine!  And I do it every 3k miles, even though it is synthetic!
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~Evan~ This smiley was named after me-->
2006 Mercedes Kleemann CDI
2005 Chevy Corvette 6MN Z51 2007 Chevy Crew Cab 4x4
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07-04-2004, 03:20 PM
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#19
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Shawty Wanna Thug
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07-04-2004, 03:21 PM
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#20
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Toss my salad, please!
Join Date: May 2004
City: Baltimore MD
State: Maryland
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~Evan~ This smiley was named after me-->
2006 Mercedes Kleemann CDI
2005 Chevy Corvette 6MN Z51 2007 Chevy Crew Cab 4x4
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