Junkyard Turbo

SquirrelNutz154 · **Junkyard Turbo**

Hey guys, I'm not making any promises here or anything, but my friend and I are thinking about custom fabbing a junkyard turbo set-up for the 3.8l mustang. My friend races cars, is an engineer, and has been working on cars all his life. He built his own dragster that he races now. If we were to make a complete, high quality junkyard turbo setup, would anybody want to buy one? Furthermore, how much would you pay for one? It'd include everything needed, except for a custom chip, which you would want to bring your car to a professional chip burner to do. We're looking for a project for the school year, and we're trying to see if this one would make sense.

Falcon · 08-15-2004, 06:36 PM

that would be SWEET to do, definately something you dont see everyday..i would say for price you should go around 1500-2000 or less, if i had the money id get one but i dont

steedav6builder · 08-15-2004, 08:40 PM

DO IT! I WOULD DEF BE INTERESTED!!!! i went looking for a junkyard turbo yesterday.

SquirrelNutz154 · 08-15-2004, 08:54 PM

I am 100% sure we could do it. I talked to my friend today, we ran some numbers, checked on parts availability. Its very feasible. I only want to do it if there's enough interest in it from people who will actually pay for one. And I'm not talking exorbitant prices....just enough to cover the parts and a little extra so I can eventually cover the costs of making one for myself. So anybody who would buy one, give me a price range you would pay, and I'll see what we can do. Of course, saying you would buy one is not a legal contract or anything, just want a ballpark idea.

jimmy_beaner · 08-15-2004, 09:46 PM

I would be interested to say the least... how much boost are we talking here? Enough to blow a stock engine? I was looking at going P&P heads and intake and a cam and all that... shift kit... I believe my dad's going to buy my shift kit for x-mas... he says "I don't get it kid... but I guess". so, if I have to buy forged pistons and crank and all that jazz.... I'd have to pay less. I also must go up to an 8.8'' rear end next summer, with the 3.73 gears... that gets my trak-lok out of the way, and I'm assuming $800 for that... I could see paying $1000 or so for the parts alone... considering I couldn't install it myself. Maybe more, depends. I'd really like to see dyno'd numbers, but I can see how you wouldn't have them. Also, there's no warrenty or anything.... if you blow up our engine, we're out an engine... so you have to take that into account... We also would have to buy a pillar to mount the amount of boost we're getting and etc.. But yes, I am interested. Would you consider making it a twin turbo system? or no?

steedav6builder · 08-15-2004, 10:52 PM

im goin to look for a turbo tomorrow at some junkyards, what should i look for? i dont know much about turbos and how am i gonna know if it works?

SquirrelNutz154 · 08-15-2004, 11:09 PM

If you don't know too much about turbos, don't try to make yourself a junkyard turbo kit. Guarantee you'll cause more damage than you'll want to have to fix. It's serious work to be doing.
Really, because it would be a junkyard kit and we wouldnt be mass producing, we could do it however weak or strong youd want it to be boostwise. If you want it to work on stock engines, thats fine, if you want it pushing an assload of boost, thats also fine. I also understand that people need to deal with installing this stuff, and thats expensive, but I would need to cover my costs. The parts aren't cheap. Also, I would be willing to include everything you need in one big package. I have connections that could give me good prices on anything, inclduing gauges, etc. I do not include any kind of guarantee, but if i did this thing, and something i made broke, id fix it. If you decided you wanted 20 lbs of boost on a stock engine and you blow the crap out of your engine....thats not my problem.

jimmy_beaner · 08-15-2004, 11:53 PM

I didn't say be stupid with the boost pressure. I hear 5 psi is ok on stock, 9 psi is ok, but pushing it, 11 psi is too much without forged parts. Not only that, but there's a limit here when the HP starts becoming too much for the rear end. I would have to price this turbo thing with how much it'll cost to install it, and how much the forged parts are and all that and make sure you get your cut too, that's only fair to you. I would want the pillar gauge cluster, preferably the ones that light up like reverse glow gauges (as I have those, and it'd be nice if the whole thing matched)... but yeah, I also have to save up for some new rims... if I can purchase a set off someone in here, for a good price, it'd help a lot. Someone that's looking to change their style a bit. And then a turbo. But I have that weakass rear end of my car. And that traction control thing instead of trak-lok. Stupid v-6

(don't mean it, I swear).. lol. anyway, I'll talk more about it tomorrow... and then I'll be busy for about 12 days in a row.... yeah, lovely.

97Stallion · 08-16-2004, 06:56 AM


Quote: Originally Posted by jimmy_beaner I didn't say be stupid with the boost pressure. I hear 5 psi is ok on stock, 9 psi is ok, but pushing it, 11 psi is too much without forged parts. Not only that, but there's a limit here when the HP starts becoming too much for the rear end. I would have to price this turbo thing with how much it'll cost to install it, and how much the forged parts are and all that and make sure you get your cut too, that's only fair to you. I would want the pillar gauge cluster, preferably the ones that light up like reverse glow gauges (as I have those, and it'd be nice if the whole thing matched)... but yeah, I also have to save up for some new rims... if I can purchase a set off someone in here, for a good price, it'd help a lot. Someone that's looking to change their style a bit. And then a turbo. But I have that weakass rear end of my car. And that traction control thing instead of trak-lok. Stupid v-6 (don't mean it, I swear).. lol. anyway, I'll talk more about it tomorrow... and then I'll be busy for about 12 days in a row.... yeah, lovely.

Actually all new mustangs, even GT come with traction control. It's a new feature for the new body style mustangs since 2001 I believe.

timpryor · 08-16-2004, 11:17 AM


Quote: Originally Posted by 97Stallion Actually all new mustangs, even GT come with traction control. It's a new feature for the new body style mustangs since 2001 I believe.

NO they do NOT abs/tc is an option not standard

STEVE · 08-16-2004, 01:17 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by 97Stallion Actually all new mustangs, even GT come with traction control. It's a new feature for the new body style mustangs since 2001 I believe.

so your saying they come with traction control and no t-lok even the gt's

Danger Dude · 01:34 PM

Traction control is an option so is ABS. All GT's have Tlok !!!!Traction control is completely different than Tlok

Tlok is The differential assembly that the Ring and Pinion gear attach to. They are mechanical and cannont be not controlled.

Traction control is a electronic device like ABS brakes. Traction control sensors tell the computer the rear wheels are starting to spinning and applies the rear brakes. it is like the reverse of ABS.

It is designed for Icy road conditions. Most European cars have it.

Dom · 08-16-2004, 03:57 PM


Quote: I didn't say be stupid with the boost pressure. I hear 5 psi is ok on stock, 9 psi is ok, but pushing it, 11 psi is too much without forged parts.

Yea, because turbo PSI is different that supercharge PSI.

Have fun telling everyone how to relocate stuff.

jimmy_beaner · 08-16-2004, 04:14 PM

so how much could I safely run with stock parts... and what kind of HP is that? then, what can I safely run with forged crank and pistons, and HP?

STEVE · 08-16-2004, 05:13 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Traction control is an option so is ABS. All GT's have Tlok !!!!Traction control is completely different than Tlok Tlok is The differential assembly that the Ring and Pinion gear attach to. They are mechanical and cannont be not controlled. Traction control is a electronic device like ABS brakes. Traction control sensors tell the computer the rear wheels are starting to spinning and applies the rear brakes. it is like the reverse of ABS. It is designed for Icy road conditions. Most European cars have it.

i know how a differntials insides are, i just thought he meant they switched to an open differential and put in traction control

Danger Dude · 08-16-2004, 06:39 PM

Traction control is not a substitute for Tlok. Traction control is on V6's (Open differentials) Gt's Tlok and Cobra's with Tlok

thirstymate · 08-16-2004, 06:49 PM

my fathers got a 02 gt with traction control and t lok. also when the traction control kicks on it doesnt apply the brakes it electronically allters the way the engine runs so that it is nolong producing power to the rear wheels. anyone with traction control will tell ya when the wheels start spinning there is no longere a throttle response, it sounds like your engine is boggin out. the older style of traction control may act that way, though im not sure there is an older style. but it doesnt use the rear brakes, at least i dont believe so. could be wrong.

Danger Dude · 06:55 PM

It probably uses both but the brakes do apply. That is direct from Ford Engineering. here is no old style traction control. It is new to American cars and only been out a short while in European cars. This following Paragraph is from the article

Traction control is part of a series of three braking technology developments that began appearing in vehicles in the mid-eighties. (Note: Many German vehicle manufacturers call traction control by its original German name: ASR traction control. ASR stands for "Acceleration Slip Regulation." It's the same technology we're talking about here, but with a fancier name that most Americans have never heard of.) In chronological order, these developments are: anti-lock brakes, aka ABS (1978), traction control (1985), and stability control (1995). All three technologies come from the laboratories of Robert Bosch Company in Germany, and all address the issue of improving contact (traction) between your car's tires and the road.

Traction control works at the opposite end of the scale from ABS -- dealing with acceleration rather than deceleration. Still, since many of the same principles apply to both systems, it might be best to visualize it as sort of ABS in reverse. ABS works by sensing slippage at the wheels during braking, and continually adjusting braking pressure to ensure maximum contact between the tires and the road. You can actually hear the system working (a grinding sound) and feel it (the pedal pulsing).