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03 Mach 1 motor build

49K views 41 replies 17 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 ·
Hey guys,
I am planning on procharging my Mach. I am curious what a ball park figure would be for me to forge the internals. I plan on working my way up to 700 rwhp. I know it will have to be tuned, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, etc... but the main thing i am looking for is the motor build.
Thanks
 
#2 ·
DSGMACH1 said:
Hey guys,
I am planning on procharging my Mach. I am curious what a ball park figure would be for me to forge the internals. I plan on working my way up to 700 rwhp. I know it will have to be tuned, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, etc... but the main thing i am looking for is the motor build.
Thanks
I'm not sure on the cost to forged internals but you might want to do some research on your block. I don't think the aluminum blocks in the machs can handle that kind of power. You might look into getting a complete shortblock and selling yours.
 
#5 ·
The Mach 1 engines have a forged crank, but that's about it. The internals and block can really only handle about 450-500 rwhp, and that's pushing it. You're going to need to beef up that bottom end and internals if you're looking to push that much power.
 
#6 ·
The Mach 1's share the same motor as the cobra minus the supercharger and pistons and rods , the crank is forged , the pistons and rods will be roughly $700-$900 depending on what you buy plus the cost of honeing the block and assembly will be about another $500-$600 , I would also upgrade the heads with better valves and valve springs and a little bit more aggressive cams to reach those power #'s , your block should be able to handle that power
 
#7 ·
Mach 1 owner.

The mach engine (manual transmission only) have forged cranks. The rods are not forged and will need to be replaced with the pistons. As for the block they are WAP blocks but have been taken to 800 crank hp safely before. Do not do a bigbore stroker kit! The block will be stressed enough. You would be wise to switch over to arp2000 bolts as well. Your pistons are up to you but I like 9:1 compression which combined with 19-24lbs of boost should get you close with good tuning. I recomend buying a forged stroker kit (4.8-5.0 litres final displacement, boring the cylinders for smoothness (kits usually want .020 over which is ok) decking the cylinder heads and block. Remember that shaving the block and heads will increace compression ratio so look for a kit with a final comp ratio of 8.6-8.8 to get close to 9. Talk to your engine builder for sure... if he looks confused by anything, walk away. I would budget 3000 for parts for the engine alone if you want to do it right. More if your having it built and benchtested. Your also going to need a transmission and driveshaft. Stock stuff wont hold up.
 
#8 ·
Thanks, I know i have to upgrade everything else eventually. Im not planning on jumping straight to 700+ hp, but if im gonna rebuild the motor, i want it ready for those #s..... I was also just debating if I would be better off to sell this motor and get the cobra crate motor, or try to find a wrecked cobra... And ya, definately going to an engine builder i trust.. This is all preliminary now... I just wanna try to keep up to my buddy and his viper. lol
 
#9 ·
Tough to find a 03-04 cobra motor for under 4-5k so that being said I'd probably go the rebuild route, plus your going to have completely new parts which is a huge plus as opposed to a wrecked cobra who's previous owner for sure abused the s@*t out of it regardless of what or who they said the owner was (grandma driven etc). Plus with the aftermarket parts you'd have a better built motor for the same or possibly less cost. Just my opinion.
 
#10 ·
DaBluedude is spot on with that post. :cheers:

You may want to look into a Teksid block instead of the WAP. They have been known to hold more power. Sean Hyland has done many builds with that foundation. There are a few guys at Mach1Registry that have stroked their WAP block and are making huge power. Just do some research and figure out what fits you best.

By the way the Teksids came in 96-98 Cobras, Maybe some mark 8s. Not 100% on that tho. Check out Svtp or M1R forums for some high hp mach 1 builds.

---------- Post added at 01:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 AM ----------

P.S please don't short change yourself on ring lands/bearings/bolts. From what i've read those are some of the first things to go POP. :banghead:
 
#11 · (Edited)
I have already done this

OK let me help save you a lot of time and money not to mention heartache. I own a 2003 Mach 1 that I added a d1sc
Procharger to. Do not add forced induction to a stock Mach 1. Only the manual has a forged crank and that's the only upgraded part. You will need forged internals plus the t3650 transmission is not rated to handle and increase in numbers like your after. I blew my engine on the dyno then had it rebuilt. Forged internals and bored out .20 but I left the stock transmission in and only upgraded the clutch. I don't drive it much but one of the bearings is going out and after 3yrs of minimal driving it needs to be replaced. I found D n D performance that specializes in transmissions. They don't carry the upgraded t3650 so they highly recommend the t56 magnum transmission and conversion kit. It's a 6spd they stated can handle up to and over 1000hp. I was told it will be the last transmission I buy for my car. Also I will warn you since mine was dyno at 550rwh they are a handful on the street. Expect to upgrade brakes asap and suspension immediately. It's a blast to drive but definitely expect this to be very expensive. Since my blower was installed before the rebuild I spent more but still here is a break down of how much it can cost. 6500 for blower and install. Engine rebuild parts and labor around 6500 and this was done by a shop that specializes in mustangs. T56 magnum transmission and kit 4000 plus shipping and install is around 1000 because these transmissions are a pain to install. Clutch and flywheel for t56 can range but expect about additional 1000. Brakes, rotors and calipers and yes I highly recommend stepping it up here because the stock ones won't cut it. This can run anywhere from 1000 to 4000 depending on what brand you go with. Drag springs to handle the launch run roughly 400. Now if you do the math your around 19000 to 20000. I'm sure someone will say this is too much. But if you pay for labor you get what you pay for. And you don't want just anyone messing with this car. In my opinion there temperamental and require a knowledgeable mechanic and they cost money. So far I have everything listed done plus I have exhaust work also done and only need the transmission, brakes and springs and I've already invested around 14000 into mine. Before you do all of this also find a good shop to tune the car. That's one of the hardest parts I think, at least where I'm at in the PNW there aren't a lot of options and places have been closing down. If and when you decide to pull the trigger and want advise or need to bounce ideas around feel free to contact me. Chances are I've already done the upgrade or I'm in the planning stage. Best of luck to you and enjoy that Mach 1 when she's finished.
 
#13 ·
Screaming Mach. What is his car pushing for hp? The t3650 isn't meant to handle anything beyond about 400hp. Any transmission shop will tell you it's a gamble and maybe he's just lucky. Most of us aren't and it's great to see one putting down numbers like that. Myself I side on the caution side of things plus this has turned into a full on restoration and customization project for me. I'm getting prepared to throw down 10000.00 on a new paint job in a year or two.
 
#17 ·
It's a passion of mine. It's something I shared with my dad when he was alive. Plus I love the retro remake of the Mach. There rare and no one in my area has one like mine. For some reason no one in my area understands what it has so it's fun to toy with people from time to time. I still need to button up a few things then eventually wanna do a few passes to see what she can do at the track. Street tires and a bad trans. Didn't help me last time and my numbers were horrible. But on the street she's a beast. Just wish we had more owners near by to hang out.
 
#20 ·
If you are going to do it right its the same price or cheaper to buy a Terminator or Coyote for $20k.

If you are paying for labor it will be around:

$6k for motor
$6k for blower install
$4-5k for a trans to hold it
$2k for misc stuff and tune

You are now at near $20k. You can buy a Termi or Coyote for about that and that isn't including the $$ you'll get for your Mach. Now if you are building everything yourself and keeping it under 500hp you can get away with the stock trans and cut out the labor and if you buy some parts used that can cut it down even more. I've seen some crazy builds that didn't cost THAT much money but they were still near the $10k mark for a good serious power car which may or may not be worth it.
 
#23 ·
If you want the Mach, go with the Mach, just saying it is much more cost effective (and you'll get your money back out of it) to go with a car already making that power. Honestly if I was getting a Mach it would be an auto 2004. 4V, 4r75w trans only offered in 2004 automatic Mach/GT cars. Bolt ons, gears, 2800rpm stall, suspension and you have a relatively inexpensive 11 second car. Probably break into the 10s with the sauce or drop a turbo on it and set it to 425hp and enjoy.

You can also do the same thing to a 2004 GT and wind up with the same power if you do a power adder and DIY because the rotating assemblies are the same strength but for NA the Mach clearly wins.
 
#25 ·
Sometimes things aren't really about cost efficiency. Sure he could get a completely base model coyote and make power. Or just get a Termi, but then you lose the point of why you are doing it.

Same reason I'm deciding to dump money into the Bullitt instead of putting that money toward selling it and "upgrading" to a different car. I'm not worried about the "resale value" or what I will actually get out of it, because I don't plan on selling it, so I don't even factor that in.

You lose the fun of the hobby if you go the road most/easiest traveled.
 
#27 ·
Lol, like I said, if you want to build XYZ, build XYZ. I am just putting down some ballpark numbers for ppl who might think they are saving money buying a cheaper car and then building it up. I am actually in a debate right now on what to do with my 98 just for this reason.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Yea i totally get where you are coming from about buying a cheap car and building it to "save money" I'm pretty much just saying, if you really want to build something, just do it.

Kind of like that that Mastercard commercial... X costs this much, Y costs this much, Z costs this much, end result = priceless.

Just my way of looking at it.
 
#32 ·
Bad tune? Too much boost? Something else let go?
 
#34 ·
Another reason I am thinking of selling my 98 and getting something better. Like I said in the previous threads. I could get a lower mileage automatic F body with a few mods for not much more than I'd get selling my 98 and that car is an infinitely better starting platform for going fast in a straight line.
 
#40 ·
Eh... there are worse, there are better than the Catfish too. I love the front of the TA but hate the bubble ass on it. Like the rear of the Camaro but the front looks like a vacuum cleaner.

*Brings out the torches and pitch forks*
Tons of Mustang guys are like that. I'm more of a "I like fast cars" guy. The whole Mustang vs Camaro thing is lulzy to me anyway.
 
#42 ·
I have never run the 98 no. I'm guessing I could get a mid 13 out of it as it sits. Once the new trans goes in and gets broken in anyway. I actually am going to try to get down to Atco this summer for giggles but I'm not expecting anything world beating. I have actually not been to a track since the late 2000s when my kid was born.

A procharger IS a blower. Its a centrifugal supercharger just like a Vortech or a Paxton. They are all basically competitors but you'll see the Vortechs more than anything as far as centri blowers go. Turbos are more suited for automatics although if I put a power adder on my 2V it would be a positive displacement style supercharger. This would be an Roots/Twin Screw style like an Eaton/KB/Whipple. Modulars need all the help they can get down low.
 
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