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Old 06-01-2018, 05:56 PM   #1
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New Project 86 notch

Picked up an awesome government beige with beige interior 86 notch, scratching an itch I've had since the early 90s when i sold my 1979 TRX Ghia coupe. This one is a V6 car, rust free.

I'm looking around locally for a 351W or a roller 302 to go in. Carb on top, as I'm not wanting to faff about looking for fuel injection parts from 30 year old vehicles.

I just don't want to risk blowing up my 2014 MGT daily. I'll take the nitrous off it and rework it to go on whatever engine ends up in this thing.
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:59 PM   #2
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more pics...

car has a c5 3 speed auto, which I can work with, a 7.5 out back which will last as long as it lasts.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-02-2018, 11:01 AM   #3
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Sweet!
That car looks really clean.

Keep us posted on the progress.
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Old 06-02-2018, 11:07 AM   #4
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Nice! Good find

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Old 06-02-2018, 11:55 AM   #5
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Usual chips and dings but, I don't care...I like with its flaws. I drove it around this morning for the first time and all it needs is a new battery and terminals. Everything works thus far. It's slow as balls but, I can fix that. Some PO welded up the diff in the 7.5 out back there so, it's racecar, lol
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:12 PM   #6
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Hell yes 4 eye notch! Best foxes ever imo. If you go 351... Get an aftermarket based 408 from Fordstrokers and call it good. Thing will make 500/500 all day and with a stalled auto that car will be retarded fast. No need for a power adder.

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Old 06-03-2018, 12:53 AM   #7
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Nice looking and very desirable early FoxBody! I've been looking for one for sometime and just don't want to pay crazy money people are asking.
Either a 351w or 302 would be a lot of fun although building a 500hp 408 just isn't that cheap...how do I know...having built a couple the last one I built had a an early OE block with 4bolt mains and pumped out 650hp @6800 and 545lbft @5800 on the engine dyno, enough to push the Maverick to a 9.80 in the 1/4. The picture below is the 4bolt main block before line honing and the heads are the key to making HP on a 408 like these Trickflow mod'd by Roush.
I'd really like to find one and do this to it although a Coyote w/10spd auto and a plainjane look would make the perfect sleeper...IMHO
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:28 AM   #8
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These are cool suggestions but, that much power is going to hit a point of diminishing returns for me. Super-expensive and would require me to do a full chassis-up build.

My goal are a fun point and shoot car that handles, stops and goes 11s in 1/4.

Now, I can do that with a roller 302 on carb with HCI and exhaust, with basic chassis bracing like subs and a strut tower brace so, that might be an easy way into the project. I'd like to recycle the C5 trans with some extra clutches, if I can. Nitrous kit from the 14 GT will be re-purposed for this car.
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:44 AM   #9
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The C5 trans isn't really up to the task of running 11's unless you do some upgrades...although it does have better interior oiling than a C4. The rearend should be upgraded to an 8.8 although I guess you could try it and see what breaks first, especially with the NO2 and a pair of slicks. Really a 351w would be my pick...more cubes and more torque. I know every one is going to cringe when I say this although an LS motor and trans would really put a fire under this car and they are going for cheap in wrecking yards...just an idea. Also, you'll need to reinforce the torque boxes and a cage will tie things together if you plan on going faster than 11.49. I guess you can try for high 11's at the strip although I'd bring a trailer to bring it home on when you break.
Anyway, let us know how the build goes and at least run it down the strip as it sits now to get a baseline...IMHO
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:47 PM   #10
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Yep, like I said, not my first Fox. Will be just trying to put together a mild driver first and upgrading later. Bracing is a minimum must-have on this pop tin chassis. Like you say, the C5 can take it, as long as you put good clutches in and do a little reprogramming. It's advantage is being small, light, easily repairable. Disadvantages are, of course, no OD which limits rear end gearing on the road.

I am really starting to come back to the 302 as a starting point, especially if I can find a full Mustang package including wiring and ECM. A couple motor mounts, bob's yer uncle and no carb. I could probably use the V6 flexplate if I changed the balance to 50 oz. I sure know how to make power on those engines, that's for sure, having driven an '88 for 13 years and raced it for 10 with every power adder under the sun on it at one point or another.
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Old 06-03-2018, 01:22 PM   #11
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We'll then for sure keep updating on this thread. Im clueless in the fox world & have been seriously thinking of getting one myself & due away with my s197.

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Old 06-03-2018, 02:17 PM   #12
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I'd never give up my 14 GT. Great daily, fast car, overall decent in most ways. I just can't afford to modify my daily and risk exploding a 10K engine, for example.

This little project scratches the mod itch cheaply, (if I'm careful), easily, (compared to a modern car) and has a unique charm unto itself.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-03-2018, 02:25 PM   #13
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11s? Basic hci on a 302 will get you there with a good auto. Nitrous will go well into the 11s.

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Old 06-03-2018, 02:26 PM   #14
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Why not just on3 turbo your 14gt and throw a good circle d stall into it? Would run 10s all day and then get 26mpg on the way home with the ac on.

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Old 06-03-2018, 02:27 PM   #15
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Yeah my 14 not a daily but if I was to have a fox project I couldnt have the 14 GT. I cant help but to mod my cars & knowing me Id be going broke trying to do both munching on ramen noodles lol

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Old 06-03-2018, 02:50 PM   #16
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How 'bout this reason? Last year I ran a 150 shot on E85, shooting for a 10 sec slip on my otherwise stock 14. I had a big nitrous backfire on the line and blew everything north of the cylinder heads to smithereens and buckled the hood. I can't afford to do that twice.....
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:08 AM   #17
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Hmmm well that sucks. Issue with the kit or the tune or what?

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Old 06-04-2018, 07:17 AM   #18
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Problem with the nut behind the wheel. I got greedy and pushed the button right out of the hole. Insufficient intake velocity resulted in the backfire. The motor took it on 100 but 150 was too much. Fixing the motor was fortunately limited to the plastic bits of the intake system. The buckled hood, not so much....
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:00 AM   #19
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Well... Great excuse to upgrade to a Cobra jet and a nice cowl hood lol. I dunno setup better or a blower isn't going to have issues. Eh, what about modswapping that Fox? You want to talk about cheap? Find a wrecked 96/97 gt for a donor, and do cams and intake on the 2v, don't even need to touch the heads. Steal all the suspension and 5 lug stuff and all wiring and fuel and there you go. 4v convert is easy too if you decide to go that route. Gotta love a 7500 redline on a stone stock 4v with a tune.

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Old 06-07-2018, 08:32 AM   #20
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You know what is actually getting hard? Finding serviceable and relatively complete 5.0 drivetrains...or 5.0 parts in general. These used to be everywhere and a junkyard pick up away but, now it's a real search and they aren't cheap where I am. We have very few JY left in my area as well, as land is far too valuable to waste on storing old trashed cars.

It's proving to be a much greater challenge than I expected....

Not so keen on a mod swap. It's all the work of a Coyote swap without the comparatively much more durable Coyote engine rotating assembly in the end.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:39 AM   #21
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It's not even close to the work or expense of a coyote swap. Get a 96/97 donor car and it's a 100% bolt in and go, you don't even need to tune anything even if you pi swap along the way. You can pick up a running but rough looking 96/97 for under $1k. Pi swap is like $500. The rest of the mods are what you'd pay regardless of swap. Just something to think about.

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Old 06-07-2018, 08:45 AM   #22
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Also if you want durability go find a lower mileage 4.6l engine in a yard. Don't even remove the crank. Swap the rods with $200 boss rods from Tasca and then pick up a set of pistons for $500 and there is a 600-700hp rotating assy. Slap the stock heads back on with a valvejob, put some cams in it and pi intake and roll. Stock 2v springs can handle 6500rpm no problem.

Or if your low mileage 4.6l is a Mark VIII out of a 97/98 you can 4v swap it. I found one with 42k miles on it for $450 last year and only reason I did not get is because I was about to move. In hindsight I should have got it and had it shipped with the rest of my house hold goods...

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Old 06-15-2018, 08:25 AM   #23
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Got an organ donor.....a running/driving 88 GT, missing bodywork and trim but, full drivetrain, electronics, some aftermarket parts, full exhaust, etc. etc. I'll thus have every little bit I need to transport the coupe to Funville, on the cheap.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

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Old 06-15-2018, 09:11 AM   #24
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Donor car is def the best. 87 and 88s are speed density tho unless it's been converted. You'd have to convert it go carb.

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Old 06-15-2018, 09:57 AM   #25
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Next stop.... Funville!
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:34 AM   #26
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Old 06-15-2018, 12:43 PM   #27
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Not concerned about SD at all and not interested in conversion to MAF. Can use Moates software and hardware to tune an SD EEC, if I feel like it. SD cars have more zip factory as it is from the beginning so, it'll be better on stock tune to begin with.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:14 PM   #28
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One thing....can anyone confirm if the 86 V6 K member is the same as the 88 GT's? I can do some measuring but, I don't have both in front of me right now. I'm pretty sure the GTs have wider track but, I'd like to know if that's because of the CA or the K.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-22-2018, 08:46 AM   #29
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Woot....the organ donor for the 86 arrived yesterday. Lots of aftermarket parts worth more than I paid for the whole car. Engine electronics and body wiring are all there so I can run EFI. Hurst shifter, new clutch cable with adjustable quadrant, newer shocks and struts, ele fan, UD pulleys, energy motor mounts, etc. Motor is painted ugly but leak free and was a running/driving car. Trustworthy soul I got it from so, any issues they'll be resolved asap.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:20 PM   #30
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So, on my donor car, I removed the valve covers and took the upper mani off to pretty it up and...it appears the 5.0 has been rebuilt! Woot! Non-stock gaskets, springs, keepers and locks immediately visible and not a speck of spooge on anything. This project was just meant to be. I was expecting to put a little tired 302 in and build it later but, I can confidently throw nitrous at this thing or whatever. I'd already jumpered the starter solenoid last week and ran a comp check. It made, cold, 205-210 on all 8, with the throttle blade closed and stroking to max in 4-5 hits so, I had some suspicions something was up.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:51 AM   #31
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**** yeah man! Pop that oil pan and look for rods. Arp hardware on the heads or stock?

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Old 07-01-2018, 04:54 AM   #32
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I mean even if the bottom end is stock that's still fine. 87-92.5 came factory with forged pistons and the rods and crank will be good long after the stock blocks let go.

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Old 07-01-2018, 07:41 AM   #33
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Hard to tell on the bolts with the rockers arm in place but, I expect it's a stock-style rebuild.

Funny you should mention the pan...that's my next job, as the front sump has a slight bash in it and is leaking from the bolt interface. I have a new pan sitting here so, it's going on soon. I got one without the ironic oil level sender that always leaks oil. I'll have a look at the caps and ends when I'm under there.

Other things I found: a one-piece steel DS in place of the stupid torque tube, Energy MM and trans mount, UD pullies, ele fan, Hurst competition plus shifter on the t5, new HD cluch cable and adj quadrant, Eibach springs and KYB shocks, poly sway bar links. Even the brakes are in perfectly serviceable shape front and rear, other than tacky red caliper paint up front. The ONLY disappointment with the donor is it is a 2.73 car but, the TL works, mitigating even that.

The car is significantly rusted like, holes in the 1/4s rusted but, it's clear someone loved it at some point.
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:58 AM   #34
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Sure sounds like you scored on that thing... we all get at least one hopefully... Just don't use that clutch cable unless its stock! Get a Max Motorsports OEM cable if you need a new clutch cable.
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:03 AM   #35
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Looks like the stock HD cable to me. All the right sheathing, etc. Same one I used on my old '88 hatch, back in the day, 10 years of drag racing on that, with power adders, slicks, a King Cobra then Centreforce clutch, no issues.

I'm going to separate the trans and motor while I have the whole powertrain out and check on the clutch, input shaft retainer, etc.. A lot easier to do stuff now than later. Chuck in the usual new main seal and TOB, if there is anything even slightly amiss. Parts are so cheap for this thing it's a false economy not to replace stuff when it's easy.

I got a list of other mods while I'm at it:

Subs with seat reinforcement, STB, torque box reinforcements, 3.55 or 3.73 gears out back, maybe LCAs or might go torque arm and panhard and ditch the uppers altogether. That mod might wait a bit, as I'm on the fence about that, cost v. benefit-wise.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.38 at 120.85

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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