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Old 01-23-2019, 05:06 PM   #1
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First Mustang

Just picked up 2002 Mustang GT 56k original miles. Kooks long headers catted x pipe and SLP loudmouth exhaust, sr lowering springs, BBK 78mm throttle body 3.73 ford performance gears. This was all already on the car at purchase now looking to see what I want to do next was looking at bilstein for suspension, steeda underdrive pullies, maybe an upgraded MAF sensor, new rear lower control arms aluminum driveshaft if I can find one for an
Automatic they seem to be out of stock everywhere. Would love to hear more suggestions for some extra power. Oh and have been thinking about B&M ratchet shifter (anyone have any expierence with ratchet shifter?)
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:12 PM   #2
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Couple pictures of the car
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Old 01-24-2019, 05:50 AM   #3
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Welcome to MEVO. Here is a good place to start.

https://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f392/t364227/
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Old 01-24-2019, 07:07 AM   #4
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Nice car and nice mileage.

UD Pullies will do nothing, don't waste your money

Putting another MAF in there will do nothing, don't waste your money

Aluminum DS will do nothing except lose a few lbs, don't waste your money

The BBK setup isn't doing anything for performance but if its already on there and isn't causing issues then dont' worry about it. BBK is very hit or miss with their throttle bodies as far as quality and operation.

Definitely work on suspension.

-Steeda or MM lower control arms

-New axle side upper control arm bushings and new STOCK upper control arms, you need the stock ones in there to allow the suspension to flex, otherwise it'll bind up and you can get snap oversteer.

-Blistein makes good shocks and struts for sure, Konis are good too. I'd replace the SR springs with Steeda Sport or HR Red springs, new isolators and if you don't have CC plates yet get Steeda or MM 4 bolt ones.

-Subframe connectors are required, Steeda, MM, Global West are all good.

Now, at this age the rubber in the front is likely all shot to hell too so new A arms, new balljoints and new tie rod ends/swaybar endlinks are a good ide as well. Stock replacement A arms with OEM style balljoints are cheap on Amazon at $80 per side and work well. You can also go with the BMR A arms if you want to go all out although for a street car that's probably overkill.

Obvioulsy a good set of wheels and tires too.

Besides that just basic routine maintenance. Do the plugs, rebuild the OEM COPs with a $35 rebuild kit, all fluids and check around the plastic area of the intake manifold where the metal crossover bolts to the plastic to make sure its not leaking since those areas warp over time.

Ratchet shifter... I wouldn't, with a good tune and a j mod the computer will shift faster than you will. Really only a good idea for a manual valve body car.

More power? There is hardly any bolt on power to be had for these cars and you already have it with longtubes and full exhaust. CAI/Pullies/MAF/TB... all of that does nothing. Full exhaust and tune and you get 250-260 at the wheels. Next step is cams which I would do the MHS Stage 2 NA cams and that'll get you up to 280rwhp or so. After that its power adder or a full build.

Oh, tune. Get a good tune. And by good tune that means not bama. A good remote or dyno tune is what you want, not a "tunes for life" package that is just generic canned tunes.
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:40 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the advice really appreciate it ! And yes I’m looking to get an actual tune done the last owner just did Bama tunes I believe and I have started looking into cams already just need to find a good shop around me I’m in Pittsburgh PA.
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:12 AM   #6
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She looks sharp! Very clean and a great color too. Welcome!
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:03 PM   #7
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Will the bilsteins be ok with the steeda lowering springs?
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ab_mach1 View Post
She looks sharp! Very clean and a great color too. Welcome!
Thank you
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Nice car and nice mileage.

UD Pullies will do nothing, don't waste your money

Putting another MAF in there will do nothing, don't waste your money

Aluminum DS will do nothing except lose a few lbs, don't waste your money

The BBK setup isn't doing anything for performance but if its already on there and isn't causing issues then dont' worry about it. BBK is very hit or miss with their throttle bodies as far as quality and operation.

Definitely work on suspension.

-Steeda or MM lower control arms

-New axle side upper control arm bushings and new STOCK upper control arms, you need the stock ones in there to allow the suspension to flex, otherwise it'll bind up and you can get snap oversteer.

-Blistein makes good shocks and struts for sure, Konis are good too. I'd replace the SR springs with Steeda Sport or HR Red springs, new isolators and if you don't have CC plates yet get Steeda or MM 4 bolt ones.

-Subframe connectors are required, Steeda, MM, Global West are all good.

Now, at this age the rubber in the front is likely all shot to hell too so new A arms, new balljoints and new tie rod ends/swaybar endlinks are a good ide as well. Stock replacement A arms with OEM style balljoints are cheap on Amazon at $80 per side and work well. You can also go with the BMR A arms if you want to go all out although for a street car that's probably overkill.

Obvioulsy a good set of wheels and tires too.

Besides that just basic routine maintenance. Do the plugs, rebuild the OEM COPs with a $35 rebuild kit, all fluids and check around the plastic area of the intake manifold where the metal crossover bolts to the plastic to make sure its not leaking since those areas warp over time.

Ratchet shifter... I wouldn't, with a good tune and a j mod the computer will shift faster than you will. Really only a good idea for a manual valve body car.

More power? There is hardly any bolt on power to be had for these cars and you already have it with longtubes and full exhaust. CAI/Pullies/MAF/TB... all of that does nothing. Full exhaust and tune and you get 250-260 at the wheels. Next step is cams which I would do the MHS Stage 2 NA cams and that'll get you up to 280rwhp or so. After that its power adder or a full build.

Oh, tune. Get a good tune. And by good tune that means not bama. A good remote or dyno tune is what you want, not a "tunes for life" package that is just generic canned tunes.
Appreciate all the advice ! Will the bilsteins beok and work well with the steeda lowering springs?
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:27 PM   #10
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Adjustable or non adjustable rear lower control arms?
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:31 AM   #11
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What would be a good tune for my car? The last owner gave me a hand held tuner when I bought the car but I know nothing about doing tunes
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:32 AM   #12
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I’d like to do a time before I add anything else
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:59 AM   #13
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Bilsteins would be great for any springs. I don't know if I'd buy adjustable rear LCA's unless I had a reason; like lowering the rear even more than the springs do or dialing in the rear for track use. Mainly because they cost more than non-adjustable LCA's. For the front, you would want to check to see what options you have if getting a new K member vs. keeping the stock K member. Maximum Motorsports has great suspension parts for newedge and foxbody cars. Whether you buy their parts or not, their website is chock full of information on suspension that can help you decide based on what you're planing to do with your Mustang. As far as tuning goes, make sure the tuner is unlocked. I'm not sure how to determine that, but I'm sure someone knows on here. I would then go with a tune from someone other than Bama (American Muscle). I'm sure someone will provide a list of tuners regularly used on here. I have an email tune from Lasota Racing. They have many years of tuning modular Ford engines.
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Old 01-25-2019, 01:31 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ab_mach1 View Post
Bilsteins would be great for any springs. I don't know if I'd buy adjustable rear LCA's unless I had a reason; like lowering the rear even more than the springs do or dialing in the rear for track use. Mainly because they cost more than non-adjustable LCA's. For the front, you would want to check to see what options you have if getting a new K member vs. keeping the stock K member. Maximum Motorsports has great suspension parts for newedge and foxbody cars. Whether you buy their parts or not, their website is chock full of information on suspension that can help you decide based on what you're planing to do with your Mustang. As far as tuning goes, make sure the tuner is unlocked. I'm not sure how to determine that, but I'm sure someone knows on here. I would then go with a tune from someone other than Bama (American Muscle). I'm sure someone will provide a list of tuners regularly used on here. I have an email tune from Lasota Racing. They have many years of tuning modular Ford engines.
Thanks for the help I’ll have to look into more tuning. And I was figuring on the non adjustable just wanted to check.
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:57 PM   #15
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Welcome Aboard from Cutler Bay, FL.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:34 AM   #16
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Welcome Aboard from Cutler Bay, FL.
Thank you
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:15 PM   #17
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That's a nice find, very neat looking and low mileage.
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