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Old 12-07-2018, 07:09 AM   #1191
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Just dellete the IAC

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Old 12-07-2018, 08:13 AM   #1192
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Well retune is free but if it cant get tuned to run stock that'll be next step. Will probably run like it did with the incorrect 96-98 IAC on it, like an old carb'd car at start have to hold the gas till it catches and warms up and then good. I did need to really crank the idle up with the set screw during the summer so it didn't bog when I ran the AC tho.

I'm sure once I get the new tune this correct 99/01 IAC will be fine although it makes one hell of a hissing noise. Hopefully the new tune will turn down how much air its bypassing and it'll shut the **** up lol.

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Old 12-07-2018, 10:06 AM   #1193
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Probably not a good idea to delete the IAC valve on a primarily street driven car that retains all of it's original accessories. The hydro-boost brake assist would be my biggest concern...
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:35 AM   #1194
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Meh... It's basically been deleted since I got it running apparently lol. The 96-98 valve was 1, the wrong one and, upon closer inspection, broke...

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Old 12-10-2018, 01:30 AM   #1195
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Set the TPS to as close to 1V as I could without going over. Car starts up from dead cold in 40 degre weather just fine now. Idles high but tuner can fix that.

Next up is to sort this suspension in this car, its REALLY bad. I mean the IRS is great but mismatched front and rear and I'm pretty sure I've got some binding in the heim joint swaybar endlinks. Car feels like it wants to go sideways when I punch it. Also could be beause the diff is original 1999 which also needs changed...

New parts list:

HR Red Springs
Tokico D specs
Moog greasable problem solver swaybar endlinks
BMR A arms
UPR K with perches

And I really want an Eaton diff but... hard to justify the price when a rebuild kit is $100 and would let me retain the halfshafts I have vs having to get termi ones. That is eventually something to do, but out here I don't plan on the car making more than 375rwhp on street radials at most so 0 need to spend the money.

EDIT: Just going to rebuild the stock diff with new carbon fiber clutches for $100. Leave the 3.27s in there since 90-100mph on the highway here is normal left lane speed for traffic. No leaks or whining from the rear so not even going to screw with anything but the clutches. Getting the damn IRS pumpkin out without dropping the subframe is harder than actually doing it lol. I'll probably do it when I do the springs/shocks so the IRS will be half out. Kicking around putting my trunk mounted battery box in at that time too.

Already ordered the swaybar endlinks, that's cheap and easy. Suspension will get done in a few months. Diff I need to see if any shop here is competent enough to do a gear install in an IRS pumpkin that is removed from the car OR if I can buy a new pumpkin in the states that is already done with gears. Or just buy the tools to do it my damn self and DIY which is probably what I'll do.
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Old 12-10-2018, 12:02 PM   #1196
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If there is nothing, otherwise, wrong with the diff, I would just replace the clutches and clean out the housing real good.
I don't really mind the 3.27's in my car. You have more power, and your engine revs higher than mine... I don't see the problem.

Have you been getting pulled on by some tuned diesels over there Scotty?
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Old 12-10-2018, 01:51 PM   #1197
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I would ditch the 3.27's in a heartbeat. They are horrible NA and still horrible with boost.


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Old 12-11-2018, 01:40 AM   #1198
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Yeah but when you want to cruise at 100mph and not be whirring down the road at 3500 or 4k for extended periods... That's the main reason I have not done 4.10s yet... The diff makes 0 noise and 0 leaks so the pinion and all the bearings are good AFIAK. The guy whol swapped it with my SRA claimed it had 70k on it but I have 0 way to verify this and there was a lot of jacked up **** on it I had to fix.

Lol Stray, there have been a few of these little Spanish hatches that have tried to race and its just... sad...
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:37 AM   #1199
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Found a set of near new Steeda IRS springs on a FB group. Even with $$$ shipping out here it's gonna be almost $100 less than HR springs new.

I am kicking around 4.10s... issue is I need to go find a shop that rents bays that has presses and bearing separators etc... Parking the car on the street for a few days is not ideal but not really an issue. No room to work on it when it's in the driveway.

As far as the rear kicking out if I punch it sometimes, that's my **** up keeping the stock tie rods and getting a factory alignment. Needs toe in and the beefy ftbr or mm tie rods.

And I'm still considering just bending over and taking it as far as the k member. Want to do longtubes in the future so might wait till then to do it but have to do BMR a arms soon. Plus a MM steering linkage and a bumpsteer kit.

Lot to do... I also want to see if I can find a harbor freight style store within an hour of here. They have everything else here including what is damn near a 100% clone of a Home Depot so I'm sure one exists somewhere.

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Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:36 AM   #1200
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That makes sense.
You don't really need an alignment shop to adjust the toe. You can just use a piece of string aligned with the front and rear wheels. If you just make small adjustments to the tie rods, of about 1/4 of a turn at a time, the toe should remain fairly even on both sides. Once you get it to where you want it, you can then go to an alignment shop to verify the amount of toe in, and they can even up the toe on both sides, if necessary.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:29 AM   #1201
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Did some more digging. Yeah the irs tie rods are *** in stock form. Also bumpsteer is a ***** with the irs which the aftermarket ones fix.

I did decide to go "budget" for the front for right now. Just new remanufactured a arms for $80 each, leave the factory k for now, new tie rods/ends, rebuild the 19 year old Steeda cc plates for $50, low mileage Termi Bilstein HD struts up front for $100 to match the back and I found a set of Steeda sport springs for the IRS for $150 with 4k on them off a garage queen.

Can basically overhaul the front suspension to last a few years for $500 and then if I decide to go coilovers or whatever later on I can have not sunk a ton of cash into it.

I'll contemplate doing the K when I do longtubes or do coilovers. If at all... The factory piece is the strongest and the roads here are not all exactly the best so leaving it for now.


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Old 04-20-2019, 12:28 PM   #1202
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So update... been dailying this thing as much as I can. Stone cold reliable, sounds great, drives great, turns a lot of Spanish heads.

Issue... front end is squeaking like crazy now. 20 year old front suspension=needs total overhaul.

Moving funds around this month and next to get all the parts over here and do the install and I'm gonna do it all right the first time so I don't have to do it again later.

-FTBR rear tie rods, Steeda IRS Sport Springs and Tokico blue shocks to match the front struts(only things left to fix on the rear till I do the diff)
-BMR tubular front A arms
-UPR Mild Steel K with perches
-Max Motorsports CC plates to replace 3 bolt Steeda plates
-New inner and outer tie rods
-New front endlinks

Then... Probably 4.10s out back, replace all the diff clutches and redo the entire exhaust next spring. Longtubes, new midpipe with dummy cats (or maybe real ones), brand new IRS catback (not sure what brand yet), delete EGR and delete PCV. Also probably move battery to trunk.

Inspection here in Spain for American cars is literally just making sure all the lights work, they do a visual for cats and then check the brakes and look for leaks. The JY engine I have in this thing has been awesome and I spin it to 7k routinely.
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:38 PM   #1203
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Any reason why your not taking a look at the BMR K member?
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:10 AM   #1204
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I didn't know it existed? If it has perches I might but if it's coilover only then no. Also I get a really good mil discount from upr and the upr is a proven piece that works and is made in Florida by an actual legit shop.

Edit:. Just went on the bmr site... Didnt see a sn95 k anywhere.

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Old 04-22-2019, 09:53 AM   #1205
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Don't forget to replace the steering rack bushings!
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:20 AM   #1206
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I just looked as well, no K member. There was a guy on Instagram that had just bought a set of new A arms. He said he had a BMR K member. I guess he didn't lol. I'm not sure if he was unsure as to what he had or what.

I like BMR's stuff and was kinda getting excited. I see they have A arms with spring perches. Are those the ones you would get?

---------- Post added at 01:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 PM ----------

I just looked as well, no K member. There was a guy on Instagram that had just bought a set of new A arms. He said he had a BMR K member. I guess he didn't lol. I'm not sure if he was unsure as to what he had or what.

I like BMR's stuff and was kinda getting excited. I see they have A arms with spring perches. Are those the ones you would get?
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Old 04-23-2019, 01:40 PM   #1207
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BMR has a S197 K...

Yes the A arms with the cups are the ones I'm getting. With the tall (X2) balljoints if they are still in stock anywhere... I think Lethal has some still.

Yes stray I am doing the bushings lol. Whole thing is gonna be a cluster but worth it in the end.
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2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048 34k miles. 99 Cobra 4V swapped, FTBR IRS swapped, exhaust, tuned by James Gordon.

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Old 05-06-2019, 06:36 AM   #1208
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Damn I love New Edges...
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Old 05-06-2019, 10:51 AM   #1209
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She's looking great!
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