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Old 05-11-2017, 07:07 AM   #1
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RPM Dropping

What's up guys. Have a 2013 V6 with 59k Miles. This only happens at times but it throws a red flag up to me, I put my car in reverse to park and back to drive and so forth to correct it. Now when I switch it into reverse or park at times the RPMs will drop, stutter then shoot back up to normal, the whole car shakes a bit when this happens. Anyone have this issue? If you did what was it? Has me worried as I'm gonna be doing a little road trip and don't want anything to happen while I'm away.


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Old 05-11-2017, 07:12 AM   #2
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What's up guys. Have a 2013 V6 with 59k Miles. This only happens at times but it throws a red flag up to me, I put my car in reverse to park and back to drive and so forth to correct it. Now when I switch it into reverse or park at times the RPMs will drop, stutter then shoot back up to normal, the whole car shakes a bit when this happens. Anyone have this issue? If you did what was it? Has me worried as I'm gonna be doing a little road trip and don't want anything to happen while I'm away.
My car idles initially around 1000-1250 on startup, then once it warms it settles in to around 700-800. From time to time there will be a brief drop to 500 and then back to 700-800. As far as I know, it's perfectly normal.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:15 AM   #3
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It's weird though. It's not like it just drops. It drops fast then stutters. Car shakes then it goes back up


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Old 05-11-2017, 07:16 AM   #4
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It's pretty odd though it drops quickly stutters then goes back up and the car shakes.


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Old 05-11-2017, 07:18 AM   #5
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To me, that's perfectly normal. Mine did it when I bought it. I've already done multiple oil changes, new plugs, new air filter, catch can, tune, and it still does it.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:22 AM   #6
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So nothing really to worry about? Cause a while back I had to change my throttle body actuator and my car would actually end up turning off when that would happen but that got fixed since then


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Old 05-11-2017, 07:33 AM   #7
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I don't know about the 13/14, but there was a recall on my 11 to replace the entire throttle body. Granted mine has been replaced and it still will occasionally shudder.

I'll wait for Volt/Strange to chime in before I risk putting my foot in my mouth.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:46 AM   #8
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Yea throttle body isn't an issue I got that replaced about 6 months ago. Throttle body actuator went out supposedly it was common and I got it all changed out


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Old 05-11-2017, 08:02 AM   #9
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Its when you shift from D to R, or it just happens randomly and shifting fixes it?
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:28 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Its when you shift from D to R, or it just happens randomly and shifting fixes it?

Car is an automatic. It's when I shift from drive to reverse or vice versa. Also when I put the car in park at time it'll drop


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Old 05-11-2017, 08:41 AM   #11
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I have a manual transmission and mine does this all the time. Especially if I am "spirited" driving. I have done the same thing as Mugeismo as far parts being replaced and maintenance, etc. Also how the car acts when in idle from a cold start and etc.

I actually made a thread about my car misfiring all the time because of cylinder one. I replaced the plugs and all seems to be well now. Maybe you need to look at your plugs or the coil packs themselves?

Hey Volt,

I believe it is your wife who has the V6 model right? Do you all have the SCT X4 tuner as well? Is there a way for me to see if all cylinders are running correctly?
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:50 AM   #12
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I have a manual transmission and mine does this all the time. Especially if I am "spirited" driving. I have done the same thing as Mugeismo as far parts being replaced and maintenance, etc. Also how the car acts when in idle from a cold start and etc.

I actually made a thread about my car misfiring all the time because of cylinder one. I replaced the plugs and all seems to be well now. Maybe you need to look at your plugs or the coil packs themselves?

Hey Volt,

I believe it is your wife who has the V6 model right? Do you all have the SCT X4 tuner as well? Is there a way for me to see if all cylinders are running correctly?

I would say 95% of the time I'm driving under 2500-3000 rpm. Never really drive the car too hard. How could I check the spark plugs or the coil packs. I've never done it on my car


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Old 05-11-2017, 08:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Its when you shift from D to R, or it just happens randomly and shifting fixes it?
Occasionally while sitting at a light idling it'll drop for 2-3 seconds. Primarily when I get home from my commute and put it in to park, I'll give it a minute to cool down and it'll drop 2-3 seconds. That's the primary times I see it.

My first shift of the day from R to D usually results in the car bucking and a slight RPM jump.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:58 AM   #14
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Well...its not an easy task on the V6's unfortunately because of the "air intake", "air plenum" or "manifold" whatever you want to call it. It's the big plastic piece on top of the motor. But you can at least check the driver side because those 3 plugs can be taken out without removing the plastic piece.

Of course remove the negative terminal from the battery before doing anything on the car. The "coil packs" are just bolted down. I believe it was the 8mm socket that worked on every bolt under the hood pretty much.

From what I've read and have been told the plugs should have very minimal amount of black on the tips. If the tips seem to be broken or worn down then they need to be replaced.

In my case all 6 plugs were incredibly black but no tips were broken. You will need a spark plug socket to get them out. No way around that.

But please don't quote me on anything I am by no means a mechanic. I am a computer nerd who likes to turn the wrench from time to time.
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:03 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 3.7Muscle View Post
Well...its not an easy task on the V6's unfortunately because of the "air intake", "air plenum" or "manifold" whatever you want to call it. It's the big plastic piece on top of the motor. But you can at least check the driver side because those 3 plugs can be taken out without removing the plastic piece.

Of course remove the negative terminal from the battery before doing anything on the car. The "coil packs" are just bolted down. I believe it was the 8mm socket that worked on every bolt under the hood pretty much.

From what I've read and have been told the plugs should have very minimal amount of black on the tips. If the tips seem to be broken or worn down then they need to be replaced.

In my case all 6 plugs were incredibly black but no tips were broken. You will need a spark plug socket to get them out. No way around that.

But please don't quote me on anything I am by no means a mechanic. I am a computer nerd who likes to turn the wrench from time to time.

But anything helps from someone who has been in my situation before. I have a friend of mine who is a master tech/head mechanic at a local ford. Might ask him what he thinks about the issue and if it is common


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Old 05-11-2017, 09:04 AM   #16
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That is a great friend to have!

Wish I had one lol. I would love to pick his brain about a few things on my car.
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:05 AM   #17
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That is a great friend to have!

Wish I had one lol. I would love to pick his brain about a few things on my car.

Yea I just sent him a message on the subject. It used to happen when I would put gas and he replaced some seal in the gas tank or something and it never happened again


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Old 05-11-2017, 09:09 AM   #18
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Hmm really? My does it also after getting a fresh tank of gas.

We've discussed that before on this forum and it always came down to either the tune, the gas used, the air to fuel mixture doing its thing...so it could be a seal after all?
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:11 AM   #19
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Hmm really? My does it also after getting a fresh tank of gas.

We've discussed that before on this forum and it always came down to either the tune, the gas used, the air to fuel mixture doing its thing...so it could be a seal after all?

I have been considering a tune forever. I only have the basic intake exhaust done to the car so I had never seen a need for it. Wanted to do a economy tune to get better gas mileage as I never race the car but I want to get this problem settled first before I go forward and do that


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Old 05-11-2017, 09:16 AM   #20
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Yea that would be a smart thing to do.

But definitely get a tune! When you can of course. Made a night and day difference for me and I have the horrible 2.73's....

By the way - I absolutely love your taste when it comes to the modifications that you have done to your sixxer. Very sexy!
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:20 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 3.7Muscle View Post
Yea that would be a smart thing to do.

But definitely get a tune! When you can of course. Made a night and day difference for me and I have the horrible 2.73's....

By the way - I absolutely love your taste when it comes to the modifications that you have done to your sixxer. Very sexy!

Thank you man, lot of work into it. I have the 2.73s also. He said not to worry too much but that if it happens very often that he would check the throttle body again or just reset the idle strategy on the computer


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Old 05-11-2017, 09:36 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 3.7Muscle View Post
Yea that would be a smart thing to do.

But definitely get a tune! When you can of course. Made a night and day difference for me and I have the horrible 2.73's....

By the way - I absolutely love your taste when it comes to the modifications that you have done to your sixxer. Very sexy!

Thank you man, lot of work into it. I have the 2.73s also. He said not to worry too much but that if it happens very often that he would check the throttle body again or just reset the idle strategy on the computer


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Old 05-11-2017, 09:44 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Kristian View Post
Car is an automatic. It's when I shift from drive to reverse or vice versa. Also when I put the car in park at time it'll drop


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i have theories at this point, but nothing more unfortunately. My thought is its the torque converter loading and unloading as you're changing gears, but not moving

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.7Muscle View Post
I have a manual transmission and mine does this all the time. Especially if I am "spirited" driving. I have done the same thing as Mugeismo as far parts being replaced and maintenance, etc. Also how the car acts when in idle from a cold start and etc.

I actually made a thread about my car misfiring all the time because of cylinder one. I replaced the plugs and all seems to be well now. Maybe you need to look at your plugs or the coil packs themselves?

Hey Volt,

I believe it is your wife who has the V6 model right? Do you all have the SCT X4 tuner as well? Is there a way for me to see if all cylinders are running correctly?
Yes, my wife has a '14 tuned by MPT. I know the tuners have the ability to adjust spark and fuel on a per-cylinder basis. As far as i know however, we are only able to log on a "general," or "overall" basis. Maybe something to look into.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugeismo View Post
Occasionally while sitting at a light idling it'll drop for 2-3 seconds. Primarily when I get home from my commute and put it in to park, I'll give it a minute to cool down and itll drop 2-3 seconds. That's the primary times I see it.

My first shift of the day from R to D usually results in the car bucking and a slight RPM jump.
Idle RPMS changing sounds like the AC compressor kicking on and off? The car will raise idle to compensate from the extra load from the compressor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristian View Post
Yea I just sent him a message on the subject. It used to happen when I would put gas and he replaced some seal in the gas tank or something and it never happened again


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My wife's car does this as well, as did my dad's '13 explorer. The Explorer actually threw a CEL for an evap solenoid (same one the mustangs use) that's apparently a pretty common failure part. Replaced it on the Explorer for ~$30, but havent gotten around to fixing the mustang yet. I dont want to be the one to tell people to spend money and then be wrong, but check out troubleshooting the purge valve / evap solenoid and see what that looks like. It's super easy to do, literally requires no tools to diagnose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.7Muscle View Post
Hmm really? My does it also after getting a fresh tank of gas.

We've discussed that before on this forum and it always came down to either the tune, the gas used, the air to fuel mixture doing its thing...so it could be a seal after all?
See above. If i remember correctly, you should be able to unplug the line from the solenoid on the intake manifold (looks like a big T with 2 x 10mm bolts holding it on) and not feel it sucking on your finger. If you feel it sucking on your finger it is stuck open and causing issues.

Again, I THINK, it's been a few years so please double check that process on your own.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:06 AM   #24
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I'm fairly certain it's not my AC. I NEVER use it. Just windows down. I'll watch the needle dip temporarily and hear the tone change. It's pretty obvious to me thanks to the Roush's.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:19 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
i have theories at this point, but nothing more unfortunately. My thought is its the torque converter loading and unloading as you're changing gears, but not moving







Yes, my wife has a '14 tuned by MPT. I know the tuners have the ability to adjust spark and fuel on a per-cylinder basis. As far as i know however, we are only able to log on a "general," or "overall" basis. Maybe something to look into.







Idle RPMS changing sounds like the AC compressor kicking on and off? The car will raise idle to compensate from the extra load from the compressor.







My wife's car does this as well, as did my dad's '13 explorer. The Explorer actually threw a CEL for an evap solenoid (same one the mustangs use) that's apparently a pretty common failure part. Replaced it on the Explorer for ~$30, but havent gotten around to fixing the mustang yet. I dont want to be the one to tell people to spend money and then be wrong, but check out troubleshooting the purge valve / evap solenoid and see what that looks like. It's super easy to do, literally requires no tools to diagnose.







See above. If i remember correctly, you should be able to unplug the line from the solenoid on the intake manifold (looks like a big T with 2 x 10mm bolts holding it on) and not feel it sucking on your finger. If you feel it sucking on your finger it is stuck open and causing issues.



Again, I THINK, it's been a few years so please double check that process on your own.

Yea lets see what it could be. It's not common but if it becomes common I'll start taking more precaution and action on the issue


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Old 05-11-2017, 11:47 AM   #26
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My 2014 manual started doing to same thing around 50k. I removed the throttle body and mass air meter and benched cleaned the tb using the tb and mass air cleaner. This solved my issue. My tb was extremely carboned up on the inside. Just spraying from the outside while still mounted to the car didn't clean the inside well.

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Old 05-11-2017, 12:50 PM   #27
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I had my throttle body replaced a few months ago for free, under the Customer Satisfaction Program 16B23. My 2011 automatic did the rpm drop before and after the throttle body replacement. It only does it when I come to a stop sign or a red light. I kind of like the sound it makes and don't worry about it
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:26 PM   #28
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I had my throttle body replaced a few months ago for free, under the Customer Satisfaction Program 16B23. My 2011 automatic did the rpm drop before and after the throttle body replacement. It only does it when I come to a stop sign or a red light. I kind of like the sound it makes and don't worry about it

What scares me the dropping and the stuttering of it like it wants to shut off but apparently it's normal lol. Ford problems


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Old 05-11-2017, 02:24 PM   #29
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If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:28 PM   #30
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If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)

Yea I'll try but taking videos all the time might be a pain to get it when it does it. Yea the humidity down here is horrible. We'll see what happens


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Old 05-13-2017, 12:16 PM   #31
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If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)

I was able to get a video of it. Doesn't let me upload a video here. I could text it to you if you want send me your number


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Old 05-13-2017, 12:27 PM   #32
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I was able to get a video of it. Doesn't let me upload a video here. I could text it to you if you want send me your number


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Put on youtube and link here.
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:31 PM   #33
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Put on youtube and link here.

Don't have a YouTube account. You can sort of hear the stuttering that the car does. Doesn't drop below 500 RPMs though, just noticed. Happened after a long drive also. Yesterday made the small commute from work to home and nothing.


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Old 05-13-2017, 03:10 PM   #34
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how do you not have youtube? if you have a Gmail, you have a YouTube. lol
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:32 AM   #35
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Reanimating this zombie thread to mention I've started noticing the same thing at 87k miles. I cleaned the throttle body (and MAF sensor) a few days ago and did the idle relearn (plus ~40 miles of easy driving) and the idle head gotten rougher. I'm guessing a new TB is in my future?

I recently replaced the evap solenoid (it was throwing a code) and which inspection of hoses and seals looks OK.
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