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Old 03-15-2017, 08:52 PM   #176
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Front brakes/struts are done.

I have a future hotrodder in training helping me. She's learning quickly.

In case you're wondering, all the wood is being used to build benches and a utility room in the garage. Doing some multi-tasking
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:34 PM   #177
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I'm starting to amass a collection of used parts. The clone only has about 400 miles on it so the parts are virtually brand new. If anyone needs OEM replacement parts for their 2015 Mustang, let me know. I'll likely start listing them on ebay and reach out to a number of repair shops around me. But, I'll give cheap pricing to ME members. This is the list I either have or will have available shortly:

What I have immediately available
Hood (black)
Rocker panel plastic (black)
Front brakes (rotors and calipers)
Struts
Driveshaft (manual transmission)
Exhaust
Wheels and tires - Premium Edition
Front grille

What I can have available within a week if someone needs
Half shafts (probably will only get rid of these if someone got hit in the rear tire and damaged their stock ones....or if someone has put 100k miles on their car by now
Rear shocks
Rear rotors / calipers
Rear toe link

What I will have available in about 2 months
Radiator
Various engine parts / covers
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:14 PM   #178
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Just putting up pics of the brakes. One of the guys watching this thread is going to buy the brakes to upgrade his ecoboost.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:11 AM   #179
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Nice for us to actually see the difference in the upgraded parts, from already great parts to overkill, nice.
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:33 AM   #180
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Hey Mike... What Shelby lettering kit did you buy for the back? On Shelby's site I only see the older Shelby GT and GT500 kits. We're either of those a close match to your Super Snake?


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Old 03-18-2017, 09:30 PM   #181
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I used the older ones. They are slightly smaller. Shelby is unbelievably stringent on releasing trademarked items. So the clone won't be perfect. The go-fast items are identical. But the exterior parts are mostly knockoffs or actually Shelby items that are close enough.

I used the ones that say 2006-2008 on the Shelby store and bought the blue letter spacing decals. It wasn't exactly perfect, but only a supesnake owner would know the difference.

Some things I can't buy. For example. I think I'll have to buy a Trex Grille. I may have to use an Anderson Composites hood...etc. But, when I'm done it'll take a real discerning eye to determine it's a clone....oh...and simply looking at the license plate as that will read SSCLONE.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:30 PM   #182
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I actually thought about an Anderson Composites hood. Kinda like my own EB350 lol

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Old 03-20-2017, 03:54 PM   #183
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Well, the Clone won't entirely be a "clone". I've decided to put in subframe to frame bushings (this is a lot of work) and rear differential bushings from Ford Racing (M-4425-M and M-5872-M). I've also decided to install BMR rear sway bar links and BMR rear vertical links. These are overkill for the 825hp at the crank the SuperSnake has, but they will be very helpful when I start turning up the HP in the future. And, since I've got it all apart I'm going to install these items now.

This shows the differential flex on the diff/subframe bushing. Keep in mind that the pinion angle to the drive shaft is changing as these bushings are distorting and all that vibration is being transferred to the driveshaft joints. Not necessarily an issue on lower HP cars. But with 1200+HP that much bouncing creates a lot of vibration between the reared and rear of the driveshaft. The Steeda bushing kit shows how it's reduced. The Ford Racing ones take it even a step further.


Steeda says their bushings are better because they are easier to install, have less noise transfer to the car (NVH...noise, vibration, harshness), and don't effect ride quality. That is all true. But, they aren't the right way to go if you're pushing 1200+hp. I'll let you all know how harsh the ride ends up being. It could be pretty harsh going with the Ford Racing bushings. But....it will be rugged!

Ford Racing Subframe to Frame Bushings

https://www.cjponyparts.com/skin/fro...all_m5872m.pdf

BMR Vertical Link
This is the part number with all steel bearings. The others (045 and 046) either have 1 delrin bearing/1steel or both delrin. We want all bushings to be steel with a 1200+HP car
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-tca047

BMR Sway Bar Link
Fully adjustable when at the track
BMR Adjustable Mustang Sway Bar End Link Kit - Rear ELK014 (15-17 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:35 PM   #184
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Getting started on the rear end.

https://youtu.be/W47XkPiRfLQ
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:12 PM   #185
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Didn't get much done tonight. Had to wait for paint/primer to dry.

Removed rear diff. Cleaned it up. Painted it Ford Racing blue. going to let it cure for a couple days before we open it up and swap out the ring and pinion. Friday I start on subframe bushings and replacing suspension parts. Should have the rear end all wrapped up by Sunday I hope.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:20 PM   #186
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Any reason you chose to paint it before opening it up rather than after it was all said and done?
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:26 AM   #187
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Quote:
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Any reason you chose to paint it before opening it up rather than after it was all said and done?
Time. And the fact that now I could be a bit sloppy on the taping as the seals are being replaced (I didn't have to worry about getting paint on them now), and I'll have the aluminum diff cover off so I can clean any paint off it while I polish it. If I waited, the taping would have had to be perfect.

TIME
We won't be working on the gears until Sunday afternoon. Painting it last night allows it to dry enough that it should be rock hard when we start working on it Sunday afternoon. We'll have to use towels in the vise to protect the paint, but it shouldn't get too banged up. Besides, it's under the car so any minor scratches/rub marks won't be the end of the world.

I can then install it back in the subframe Sunday evening. Between then and now I'm working on the subframe replacing bushings, vertical links, installing the adjustable toe rods, getting the Wilwood brakes ready, and installing whatever else I can.

If I waited until after the gears were changed to paint it then I wouldn't be installing it until middle of next week. I'm trying to hit April 30th as my date to have the car track ready. That means everything but the blower installed and tested. So, time is of the essence.
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:12 PM   #188
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Getting started on the rear end.

https://youtu.be/W47XkPiRfLQ
That was sort of a cliffhanger...
"Will Medwards be able to get his rear end back in alignment??" "Will his car ever drive straight again???" "Tune in to the next episode of Super Clone to find out!!!"
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:29 PM   #189
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That was sort of a cliffhanger...
"Will Medwards be able to get his rear end back in alignment??" "Will his car ever drive straight again???" "Tune in to the next episode of Super Clone to find out!!!"
Hahahaha. Maybe I'll get some of my gearhead buddies and I'll film the next one like a Grease Monkey episode. That could be funny.
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:36 PM   #190
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Hahahaha. Maybe I'll get some of my gearhead buddies and I'll film the next one like a Grease Monkey episode. That could be funny.
Please, not "Grease Monkey"
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:43 PM   #191
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This video is very good at showing why the S550 mustang has wheel hop....and why I'm replacing all the rubber bushings.

https://youtu.be/Y7NWX6rZzdg

All of the changes I am making to the rear of the Clone are pretty straightforward. However, I will say that removing the subframe and installing the subframe to frame Ford aluminum bushings is not for the faint of heart and will affect your ride quality. All of the other changes below will not make the ride harsh...but they will stiffen up the ride.

I used a slightly different approach to actually support the subframe while removing it as they did in the video below. Here's a video of my technique:
https://youtu.be/ZYPlUJ6wodg

Here are videos on how I did what I did (um...am getting ready to do this weekend):

REMOVE IRS
https://youtu.be/jaymp62KvpA

2015 Ford Mustang S550 Drag-Racing IRS Upgrade

INSTALL VERTICAL LINK
https://youtu.be/__jZXDC4Ui8

INSTALL ADJUSTABLE TOE RODS
These are the exact BMR rods I installed
https://youtu.be/jG9sdSNH4e0

INSTALL REAR SWAY BAR
Again...I used Ford Racing...but the same process. I also put in BMR double adjustable sway bar links as the stock ones are puny and not adjustable.
This video shows both front and rear sway bar install. It's a long video but obviously you can fast forward.
https://youtu.be/0cnkGsT4qCI

INSTALL REAR SPRINGS
I also replaced the shocks. This video shows reusing the stock shocks. You will notice when he's swapping out the springs you can lower the subframe...as long as you only lower 1 side at a time! That way you always have one side anchored so the subframe doesn't come out of alignment.
https://youtu.be/0v-MiD40RQA


REAR BRAKES
There isn't a good video on the Wilwood AERO6 brakes. But their instructions are top notch so you can't go wrong just following the directions if you go with them.

I will have a much easier time swapping everything as my subframe is out of the car and I'm doing all the swaps at once.
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:01 AM   #192
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Hahahaha. Maybe I'll get some of my gearhead buddies and I'll film the next one like a Grease Monkey episode. That could be funny.
Haha.
I wouldn't change a thing! You've been informative and to the point.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:15 AM   #193
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You sure know how to put a build thread together, good stuff man.
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:32 AM   #194
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This one's a little long...but I think it's got some good information in it.

https://youtu.be/TNN_ji7AWGU
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:10 AM   #195
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My young assistant finished up putting safety wire on the Wilwood brakes. They aren't as perfect as a professional would have done, but they certainly are done well enough to be fully functional. I think she kicked butt on her first safety wire project. It's not easy to pull this off and have it look this good for your first try.

It's probably worth noting that all the bolts are installed using Loctite 271 (basically the permanent type of loctite that actually takes heating torches to remove something assembled with it). So, the probability of those bolts backing out is somewhere between slim and none. The safety wire is simply a "belt and suspenders" approach. Better to be safe than sorry.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:01 AM   #196
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Looks like your young Jedi did a great job!
I still have a picture of my daughter when she was 16...she just turned 40...helping restore my 66 GT Hipo...a couple of decades ago...cherish those pictures!
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:03 AM   #197
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Did she measure that all 6 wires were exactly the same length before starting?

You want those rotors to be perfectly balanced!

If they're different lengths = different weights = out of balance
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Old 03-31-2017, 01:23 PM   #198
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Did she measure that all 6 wires were exactly the same length before starting?

You want those rotors to be perfectly balanced!

If they're different lengths = different weights = out of balance
Daddy measured them and gave each one to her and explained that she had to use the exact number of twists on each wire as all of them needed to be trimmed. I'm pretty confident we got them well balanced...but you are absolutely correct in that it is important to make them all the same.


You will see one in the picture that is slightly trimmed shorter than the others but I don't think it's going to create any issues. That was the first rotor she did.
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:33 PM   #199
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Just finishing up the suspension/rear diff. Now I'm deciding on power.

I've decided to wait until next winter to put the blower on. Basically I'm running out of time and want to get the car on the road. The blower is going to be a lot of work. So, I'm going to run naturally aspirated this summer. Goal is to get to 650hp at the wheels. Additionally, anything I add I want to be able to use once the blower goes on in 9 months.

So, here's the list:

-Headers
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k.../model/mustang

-CAI
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a.../model/mustang

-Nitrous
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20932-...lb-bottle.html
Maximizer 5 Progressive Nitrous Controller
GEN X 2 ACCESSORY PACKAGE, EFI

-Tuner
www.performance-dyno.com
https://www.facebook.com/performancedyno/?ref=br_rs
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Old 04-04-2017, 08:19 PM   #200
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Don't have a swear jar in the garage when you throw on the Kooks long tube headers. You'll fill it up multiple times lol.
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:00 AM   #201
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May I recommend reaching out to Team Beefcake for these parts vs Summit? You'll be surprised what Terry can offer on prices.
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:35 AM   #202
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May I recommend reaching out to Team Beefcake for these parts vs Summit? You'll be surprised what Terry can offer on prices.
Sure, do you have a link?
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:37 AM   #203
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Don't have a swear jar in the garage when you throw on the Kooks long tube headers. You'll fill it up multiple times lol.
Yes, it appears to be a project that you simply accept that it's going to take time and things are going to be tight. I'm hoping that I won't have a lot of problems with studs since the car is practically brand new...but we'll see.
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:01 PM   #204
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Building a 2015 Super Snake Clone

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Sure, do you have a link?
Here is his contact page - http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/info.html

Site - Team Beefcake Racing | Race Proven & Track Tested

Don't go off published pricing, if you talk to him live his priced shipped beats pretty much everyone else. He picks up the phone 7 days a week from 9 am to 10 pm.

Edit: And here's his # (513) 478-1965
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:06 PM   #205
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YEAH!!!! to... OH ****!!!!!!!!!!

I got the car all together. After working over the course of a bunch of weekends over the past month or two....I decided it was smart to spend about 45 minutes going over everything today before taking her off the lift just double checking to make sure I didn't miss anything. The IRS looks like a friggin work of art. This car is ready for some serious racing.

Took her off the lift, and started backing up. Stopped to check the brakes...and heard an odd clunk. Hmmm....back onto the lift. Couldn't find anything. Back off the lift....backing up, hit the brakes, nothing this time. Shut the door on the garage with a HUUUUGGGGEEEE smile on my face. She doesn't have the blower on, but it's time to have some fun!

I get out on the main street....turning left and right....no noises and everything is real tight...like slot car tight. Even the alignment feels good! She's got to go to the alignment rack, but it's all feeling real good. The smile gets bigger!!!

I get out on the rural highway and go easy as I'm still not sure if there's any issues and I do have new rear gears. I'm expecting a lot of NVH from the Ford Racing aluminum bushings but I'm not noticing anything. The smile is about hurting my face at this point!!!!!

Then the oh **** moment. I'm cruising at 40MPH and all of a sudden a slight vibration shows up. I immediately pull over thinking I may have an emergency brake dragging (the Wilwood instructions aren't great about routing or adjusting the E-brake cables). After touching the rotors they feel cool. Hmmm.....wtf. I start motoring again and the vibration is getting progressively worse....and there's an intermittent clunk every now and then. I stop to try to reach under to check the driveshaft. Ain't happening with the car now that it's lowered. I'm skinny...but not that skinny. Time to go back to the garage. And I haven't even gotten to get into the gas! Smile is GONE. I limp back to the garage under 25MPH so if it's the driveshaft I don't do damage when it drops (got a driveshaft loop on the front so 25 is probably safe should the back drop). But how could it be the drive shaft I'm asking myself...there's Loctite and the bolts are all torqued....like every other darn bolt I've turned on this car. It can't be the driveshaft I keep saying to myself. Just don't let it be the rear end I keep saying as well. Not the rear end please.

Get into the garage and start looking/feeling around. Well....I can't put my hand on the rear diff cover. Can't say you'd fry an egg...but you'd burn you hand keeping it on it. Oh ****.

So, after draining the fluid I'm beginning to wonder just how great the guy is that everyone recommended. The gear fluid looks like quicksilver after only about 6 miles (3 miles away from the garage and 3 miles back to the garage).

Smile is gone. Realization that the rear-end has to come out to determine what ground up. Good news is that I'll have the rear end out in about 2 hours. Bad news will be if I have to spend $275 for a new set of gears. Hopefully it's just a racer that wasn't set properly and I'm just replacing some bearings. Spoke to the guy who did the install of the gears. He sounds genuinely bummed out. He's coming over Monday evening to take a look.

I'm thinking it's time to learn how to install ring and pinion sets. I can strip down and rebuild a diesel in my sleep....I'm now wondering why I've never learned to rebuild rear ends.
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:26 PM   #206
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Can't wait for Monday's episode! Hopefully you can mash on the gas by Tuesday.
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Old 04-16-2017, 03:47 PM   #207
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*cough* I told you so. But you said you were a gluton for punishment.... and would change the gears now, the back again later if need be!!

Gears changes often have problems. Usually its just noise. But I've just heard so many bad stories that I would make sure I got the car from the factory with the right gear, and then leave it alone.
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:34 PM   #208
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Bit of bad news, but at least you caught it quick, you will have it sorted soon then thinking of the blower...soon.
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:12 PM   #209
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I went through the very same thing...only 50 years ago. I took my car to the "guru" of rearends changing to 4:11's. Drove the car home and the next day it was in the garage being torn apart by myself and friends. That's how I learned and now I do it myself.
I didn't realize the IRS was that different from the 8.8"...I think it's time you learned ...IMHO

A picture of that same car...a real street gasser.

2015 Mustang Rearend Build
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:26 PM   #210
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I agree, from what you can accomplish already, easy just need a few tools.
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