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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the list if what I've changed so far:

1. Battery
2. Manifold
3. Alternator
4. Serpentine Belt
5. Water pump

Now the car can just sit there running and get almost to the H on the temp gauge in about 5-10 minutes.

And the check engine light is on. The code (I'm paraphrasing) is something about detecting a high temp in one of the cylinders or heads. One of the possible causes is overheating.

The AC will work fine until right after the temp passes midway then it blows warmer air.

Any ideas?

Could it be the wrong belt?
 

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Temperature sensor?
 

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It could infact be a temp sensor but that seems unlikely in my mind... You could try and replace that first before u start spending a ton of money and time on other options and see if it works...I had the same problem in my 91 and it was the radiator... I replaced it and BOOM, no overheating anymore... Infact I run fairly cool now at about 140°... I found a "top of the line" 4 core radiator on Craigslist that was originally bought for upwards of $600 and the guy was selling it for $60 and it was almost brand new... Try those options and let me know how it goes... Good luck...
 

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Thanks!

I also forgot to add that I replaced the thermostat too.
thats what i figured thermostat..Does it seem like its acually overheating,,it could be air trapped not letting water pass smoothly across the ECT sensor,,never really seen fords do it very often,,but seen it happen with chevys

---------- Post added at 04:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:35 AM ----------

thats what i figured thermostat..Does it seem like its acually overheating,,it could be air trapped not letting water pass smoothly across the ECT sensor,,never really seen fords do it very often,,but seen it happen with chevys
Usually a clogged radiator will take a little longer to overheat
 

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Here's the list if what I've changed so far:

1. Battery
2. Manifold
3. Alternator
4. Serpentine Belt
5. Water pump

Now the car can just sit there running and get almost to the H on the temp gauge in about 5-10 minutes.

And the check engine light is on. The code (I'm paraphrasing) is something about detecting a high temp in one of the cylinders or heads. One of the possible causes is overheating.

The AC will work fine until right after the temp passes midway then it blows warmer air.

Any ideas?

Could it be the wrong belt?
From your description I would guess that you have a blown head gasket. :(
 

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With a blown head gasket you would see white smoke out exhaust or radiator fluid in oil. It doesn't always take a long time to overheat with a clogged radiator. High performance engines overheat faster. Take it to a shop and have them run a diagnostic test to see whats wrong. Only cost 35.00 and can save you hundreds or even thousands.
 

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With a blown head gasket you would see white smoke out exhaust or radiator fluid in oil. It doesn't always take a long time to overheat with a clogged radiator. High performance engines overheat faster. Take it to a shop and have them run a diagnostic test to see whats wrong. Only cost 35.00 and can save you hundreds or even thousands.
Sometimes that is true, but not always.
I have worked on lots of vehicles and many other types of machinery for many years, so I didn't make the guess just off the top of my head.
Rapid overheating could easily be caused by a blown head gasket, cracked head or block and not show the usually expected indicators.


This phrase in his original post is what makes me think this may be the problem.
The code (I'm paraphrasing) is something about detecting a high temp in one of the cylinders or heads.

A high temp in one cylinder would not be caused by a plugged radiator.
All cylinders would be equally affected.


There is also the possibility that an injector or two is malfunctioning and the cylinder(s) affected are running way lean, but I wouldn't expect it to heat up that quickly with just an injector or two malfunctioning.


Run a compression test on the cylinders affected if you know which ones they are, if not run it on all cylinders. Also when the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let it idle, observe the coolant in the radiator and see if you can see any bubbles in the coolant. A few bubbles will be normal, but a constant stream while the engine is running will indicate that cylinder compression is entering the coolant system.
 

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big question here...when you replaced the water pump and thermostat...did you burb the system?
 

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Ive acually seen a severly clogged convertor do it too...But before you spend alot of money on different parts,,sometimes its best to start with the basics..Do what trojan said and start with a compression test,,A compression gauge doesnt cost too much..That way you know if that comes out good,,your mechanically sound and you can go from there..Ive myself have overlook compression checks because the computer can adjust so much that a uneven compression engine can still run pretty decent..
 

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My first thought would be temp/temp sensor.. My dad had a dodge that had similar symptoms
 

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Trojan Horse said:
Sometimes that is true, but not always.
I have worked on lots of vehicles and many other types of machinery for many years, so I didn't make the guess just off the top of my head.
Rapid overheating could easily be caused by a blown head gasket, cracked head or block and not show the usually expected indicators.

This phrase in his original post is what makes me think this may be the problem.

A high temp in one cylinder would not be caused by a plugged radiator.
All cylinders would be equally affected.

There is also the possibility that an injector or two is malfunctioning and the cylinder(s) affected are running way lean, but I wouldn't expect it to heat up that quickly with just an injector or two malfunctioning.

Run a compression test on the cylinders affected if you know which ones they are, if not run it on all cylinders. Also when the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let it idle, observe the coolant in the radiator and see if you can see any bubbles in the coolant. A few bubbles will be normal, but a constant stream while the engine is running will indicate that cylinder compression is entering the coolant system.
That actually makes a lot of sense. I would say that your response is the best and is probably the cause of his problems.
 

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That actually makes a lot of sense. I would say that your response is the best and is probably the cause of his problems.
Thank you. :good:


I actually hope not for his sake, but it is the best conclusion I can come to with the information given.
 

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I'm still wondering if you had burbed the coolant system OP...believe me it is a must when swapping the things you did. Ask Sienna...he had the same issues you're having. Didn't burp it. I had him do it and well now he has no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I dodged a huge bullet there. It was just trapped air in the lines.

Now the ABS light has been on for years. The former mechanic said nothing to worry about as the cost of fixing outweighed the need to fix. Mechanic B says it needs fixing.

Who's right?
 

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lol i thought it just needed to be burped :D

as for that having the ABS light on could be for a handful of things. It is always a good idea to have any ABS codes run, and fixed. Yes things like speed sensors suck to pay for, but there are reasons the light is on. Mechanic A wouldn't get near my car lol. Sounds like a question for an ASE exam
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah I was nervous because I read so many cases of that being gasket trouble.

As for the ABS, I too prefer to be safe than sorry. Hopefully it's not too big of a hit.
 
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