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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while back, i noticed that I needed to put my light switch in a "sweet spot" for me to be able to have my head lights+ running lights+tail lights to be turned on, because if the light switch was fully pulled out, the head lights would turn on, but that's it, no interior lights, no tail lights, nothing. So I recently found this(the picture) when I tried putting in my white gauge cluster that I ordered from American muscle. I went to auto zone, got a new switch, then went to local ford and got a new wiring harness. I replaced both, but I'm still having this "sweet spot" problem. If anyone can help, that would be wonderful, thank you.
Auto part Wire Engine Vehicle
 

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This is a common issue. Before replacing the switch($18) make sure the wire going into the connector are pushed all the way in and making good contact. Had this same issue and that along with closing up the gap in the loose connector has solved the issue.

I disconnected the battery, plugged the harness into the headlight switch and used a small flat head to make sure each wire was securely and firm on the male connectors.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is a common issue. Before replacing the switch($18) make sure the wire going into the connector are pushed all the way in and making good contact. Had this same issue and that along with closing up the gap in the loose connector has solved the issue.

I disconnected the battery, plugged the harness into the headlight switch and used a small flat head to make sure each wire was securely and firm on the male connectors.

Hope this helps.
Yeah I have tried this before, but its something with the physical switch itself. I bought 2 switches from advanced auto parts and 1 from a ford dealership, but they all do the same exact thing. It's almost like as if there is supposed to be a stop limit to how far the switch can be pulled out, but these switches don't have a stop, I'm not sure. But this has caused more problems than anything haha
 

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Yeah I have tried this before, but its something with the physical switch itself. I bought 2 switches from advanced auto parts and 1 from a ford dealership, but they all do the same exact thing. It's almost like as if there is supposed to be a stop limit to how far the switch can be pulled out, but these switches don't have a stop, I'm not sure. But this has caused more problems than anything haha
You are going to need to go to a junk yard and cut a good one of another car or order the repair kit from www.americanmuscle.com this is the third car I've had this issue with and if the plug you are using is melted and/or chard I believe I would replace the plug before buying another switch.

I was able to single out the exact wire by turning on the lights and lightly wiggling each wire until I got the dash lights back. Had no issue since. :good:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You are going to need to go to a junk yard and cut a good one of another car or order the repair kit from www.americanmuscle.com this is the third car I've had this issue with and if the plug you are using is melted and/or chard I believe I would replace the plug before buying another switch.

I was able to single out the exact wire by turning on the lights and lightly wiggling each wire until I got the dash lights back. Had no issue since. :good:
So you're saying that u had the problem that no lights would go on with the switch fully pulled out? And just wiggled around some wires and got it back together?
 

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So you're saying that u had the problem that no lights would go on with the switch fully pulled out? And just wiggled around some wires and got it back together?
Yes, once I determined which wire was causing my issue, I removed it from the plug and used some needle nose pliers and lightly squeezed the connector back together and put it back into the plastic plug and put the male connector back in, zero issues since.
I used a small star bit screwdriver to push the female out of the plug an back in again, be very careful when doing this, really easy to damage the wire and connector
 

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My headlight switch is the same all burned up I don't have any issues with my headlights yet so I haven't replaced. Just dimmer and hazards problem After looking threw all my wiring there was a lot of wires half in or barely in my turn signals won't work with my hazards switch on the last owner messed with a lot of wires and a lot were not even connected some cut on top of the already ****y factory wiring smh check wiring first then go to a junkyard get one maybe after taking one apart you'll find what's missing or wrong with yours
 

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My headlight switch is the same all burned up I don't have any issues with my headlights yet so I haven't replaced. Just dimmer and hazards problem After looking threw all my wiring there was a lot of wires half in or barely in my turn signals won't work with my hazards switch on the last owner messed with a lot of wires and a lot were not even connected some cut on top of the already ****y factory wiring smh check wiring first then go to a junkyard get one maybe after taking one apart you'll find what's missing or wrong with yours
Think simple and cheap problems before you replace things that are expensive!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, once I determined which wire was causing my issue, I removed it from the plug and used some needle nose pliers and lightly squeezed the connector back together and put it back into the plastic plug and put the male connector back in, zero issues since.
I used a small star bit screwdriver to push the female out of the plug an back in again, be very careful when doing this, really easy to damage the wire and connector
... Wow that sounds like it actually might work haha, that didn't cross my mind once. Thing is though, when I brought back the 2 switches to advanced auto, they tested it with a meter and found a dead spot in the connecting terminals with the rod pulled all the way out. I don't know if it was just a freak possibility that all 3 switches I got were messed up and maybe 4th times the trick, but my day off Thursday, so I will be trying your solution. Thank you for this help
 

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... Wow that sounds like it actually might work haha, that didn't cross my mind once. Thing is though, when I brought back the 2 switches to advanced auto, they tested it with a meter and found a dead spot in the connecting terminals with the rod pulled all the way out. I don't know if it was just a freak possibility that all 3 switches I got were messed up and maybe 4th times the trick, but my day off Thursday, so I will be trying your solution. Thank you for this help
Np at all, been round and round this same issue on several cars lmao GL
 
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