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If I win the gift card I'm getting a replacement hood strut kit first. Hell, I will probably buy that tonight honestly. There is a steeda strut kit on there now but its the old style and one strut is gone and the other is collapsed and the brackets aren't on properly.


I'm assuming the hood strut kit is as old as the rest of the car lol. New style looks way better anyway.


And yeah TJ is the man for sure. Makes me even more of a fan of the company. They make a great product, test their own stuff and I'm honestly wondering if there is a way to get the factory tune for this car on a SCT device. I need to PM him about that...
I bet you could get that stock tune
 

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Discussion Starter #42
He already got back to me around 9:45 eastern time (do they let them leave the office?!). Haha. But no, it as custom tuned there in 2000, no way they still have the stock tune and they don't tune for blowers with the SCT stuff. I'd have to take the car to them in FL to get them to tune it blah.


Tuning by James will do a remote for $200, I just need to get a wideband in this thing and find a used unlocked SCT tuner. I do not need an X4 or anything, just something that can load the tunes I get.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Its at $195 or its the wrong link? I've found them for that on the Corral already. I'm trying to start gathering as much of this secondhand as I can. Only thing I will probably buy new is a catted X. I really don't think I need stainless as this car is not going to see salt.




Trying to do:


$100 wideband
$300 X pipe
$100 for a TFS plenum
$200 SCT tuner
$200-$400 for a remote tune
$500 for the motor


Paid $5500 for the car


Puts me right at $7k and I will need tires as soon as everything is verified working properly so $500 for a set of Sumis or something or I might find room in the budget for a better tire or something on clearance...






Might use the rest of the $$ for energy mounts and a new clutch/flywheel. Car does not need anything else. Hoping to make $500 or so back from the Snow kit and parting stuff off the blown 2V in the car. The snow kits new are $500.
 

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Its at $195 or its the wrong link? I've found them for that on the Corral already. I'm trying to start gathering as much of this secondhand as I can. Only thing I will probably buy new is a catted X. I really don't think I need stainless as this car is not going to see salt.




Trying to do:


$100 wideband
$300 X pipe
$100 for a TFS plenum
$200 SCT tuner
$200-$400 for a remote tune
$500 for the motor


Paid $5500 for the car


Puts me right at $7k and I will need tires as soon as everything is verified working properly so $500 for a set of Sumis or something or I might find room in the budget for a better tire or something on clearance...






Might use the rest of the $$ for energy mounts and a new clutch/flywheel. Car does not need anything else. Hoping to make $500 or so back from the Snow kit and parting stuff off the blown 2V in the car. The snow kits new are $500.
That was one of the lower buy now ones I saw
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Lol if that was buy it now at $99 for an unmarried SCT3 I would already have hit the buy button.
 

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Lorraine's driver
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I went with all stainless on my most recent exhaust project.

In your case though, you may have a good point not to use stainless. If it never sees any weather, it's not really necessary. And if you do decide to go with a set of LT's in the future, the mid-pipe will need to be replaced anyway.
Lots of moisture on the inside if you don't go for long enough drives though.
 

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Lorraine's driver
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A lot more Steeda parts and upgrades on these than you can tell visually. Pretty damn cool. I'm kind of a purist with mustangs. Just an example, it took me 2.5 years to decide to lower mine lol. If it was me, I would probably try to get this back to the specs on that sheet exactly if possible. I didn't realize Nitto 555's have been around that long. 285's are some serious beef out front lol. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Eh, this debate has been beat to death and I know all the sides of the argument. Just hard on the mega omfg budget I've set myself. I mean I literally do not have any more $$$ than the $8k for everything including the car right now... one reason I was saving for 2 years which lasted like 6 months lol. But this deal was just too good to pass up... I KNOW I can have a reliable 400whp car for sub $8k if I stick to it. And 34k miles and special edition and mint. I want to have it ready to go for the AM show this year for damn sure.


**** it, I'm just going to get the aluminized UPR catted X. If it starts to show crud I'll deal with that when it happens. Like I said the BBK pipe I had on my 98 was fine. Hell, even the aluminized MAC OR pipe I had on my 95 Cobra was still in good shape after 7 years and 25k miles. 2 of those years were as a DD even in the winter.


UPR has a forum discount too and its public BTW. Enter SHAZAM in the coupon code when you buy from them for 5% off. I know UPR=unauthorized product reproductions but in this case with the pipes, they actually have them made locally in Florida by VRS exhaust and buy bulk to cut costs down on their end.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
So, talked to James from Tuning By James today. He talked to me for a solid 15-20 min, let me know about the cars/kits from those eras, what he exactly needs to know, what he thinks I should do with this car as far as a solid reliable 425ish whp and go from there. Also quoted me a really good price, at least I think so.

What he stated:

-Get an intercooler. Just do it. Aftercooler, intercooler, something to cool down the air charge temps. Does not recommend exceeding 5-6lbs without one.
-Get part numbers off the MAF/injectors, find out exactly what Bypass valve is on there and get him all that info. I knew this but good to hear someone being thorough. I do have green tops btw.. 42lbs ftmfw!
-If I get a powerpipe, they are pieces of **** in stock form, he would walk me through modding it to place the bypass in a location that does not suck and **** up the MAF readings.
-Lot of other little stuff. Basically yes he can remote tune it.

Seemed very knowledgeable and did answer all my questions thoroughly and seemed to be happy that I was not someone trying to max out the stock motor. Told me that he could do a safe tune at 400-425 and "it'll make what it'll make" once he gets all the data from the datalogs. If its 390 its 390, if its 430 its 430 but we're on the same page that I don't want something running on the ragged edge and I will be shifting at 5800.

In other news... ordered a set of Steeda hood struts today so I can actually look at the damn motor without holding it up lol. The old struts were shot. They're part of the May sale on Steeda. I got something like $70 off combining the sale and a military discount from TJ. Also tried to order the UPR catted pipe. Key word there was try, they are backordered for at least 2 weeks, no biggie since I am having my knee scoped in a few days anyway and won't really be starting this swap out until June something. I did get in touch with VRS, the company that makes the UPR pipes and he said he could probably get one done in a few days. Also said he might have some 304 stainless leftover so if that's the case I may get the stainless pipe after all. I won't pay premium prices for 409 stainless TBTH.

So I'm going to try to find a real good deal on someone's aftercooler and if not I might just bite the bullet and get the CX racing intercooler and settle for Sumitumo tires vs Mickeys or new Nittos or something. Hopefully going to put a deposit down on that 38k Vic motor tomorrow. Its still in the car and they said I can hear/see it run and check the odometer on the car and everything.
 

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It sounds like you are off to a great start! I'm sure much like everyone else, I am reading along trying to take the journey with you. I love to see people get a great car and treat it to the love it deserves. I sometimes get the veruka salt or however you spell it (Willy Wonka) thoughts of "I want it now" lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks I appreciate it and yeah, I'm going to get the car right and take the time it takes to get it legit RIGHT.

Found my first "omgwtf" on the car tonight, knew it was only a matter of time. Just in the garage looking at a few things and I dunno why but the light caught the paint just right where the driver's sail panel meets the roof... and I see a little pock marking. Pull on it a little and yep... paint is peeling at that point. Looks like its going all the way up to the windshield and probably on the right side too so guess what I'm doing all next week?


Good news is, its almost impossible to see as it is now but I'm going to fix it asap vs letting any sort of rust damage happen to the roof of all places. I've had a similar problem before, paint loves to peel on these cars where these panels meet the paint. Vibration and time crack the paint and it starts to peel.
 

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Yeah, another hidden cost. Those could be costly tho lol. Hopefully that'll be all you run into.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Nah, it looks worse than it is. I dunno how the hell I missed it. Probably because I was hauling ass to the bank before the dude changed his mind lol.


I will have to pull the sail and trim panels off, I know how to do it, its not the PITA ppl make it out to be.


For some reason photobucket is not working for me so I can't post the pic but basically where the trim panel meets the roof the paint is actually peeling and flaking slightly. Already ordered $100 worth of stuff from paintscratch that will totally fix it.


Worst case, if for some reason it happens again I will pull the panels again and vinyl wrap the whole roof black and then add the Steeda side stripes and get a Steeda functional wing painted black and install that. Hell, I might just do that anyway lol.
 

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Great pick up Scotty enjoy your new toy.

Sent from the Bathroom
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
I like the new avatar by the way 👍🏻👍🏻
Ya, hopefully nobody confuses me with TJ lol.

Great pick up Scotty enjoy your new toy.

Sent from the Bathroom
I'm trying. Currently researching like a madman if a Vortech aftercooler for a 96-04 will fit on a Paxton Novi 2000 for my car. I keep hearing yes but I have yet to see someone with a pic of it actually done and a rundown of what they had to do. Got a line on one for $400 shipped OBO.

[email protected] confirmed what I've been told by others too, the aftercooler is great because it adds zero additional piping and makes the boost more responsive and the car easier to tune. Also its a Vortech piece vs a "made in China" CX racing unit. Also I can dump a ****load of ice into the tank on track days... Or put the tank in the trunk...
 
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