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Discussion Starter #1,181
Hauling *** around corners at double the speed my DD can take them at with the car not really trying is definitely fun. The front does move around a little which is why I'm going to sort that ASAP but... yeah.

Honestly the BEST place for parts now seems to be Facebook of all places. I got a VERY large portion of all my parts on this car from FB versus traditional forums or CL.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/210426149081232/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/302867449861383/

Don't be afraid to get a 99 or 01 unit for way cheaper if you aren't going to be above 500hp. You can always swap out the diff and axles for an 03 setup whenever, the subframe and arms and other stuff are the same. If you do find a 99 just make sure it got the recall done on the knuckles or you'll be SOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,182 (Edited)
I would go centri

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Yeah probably should just do that. Figure I can find a good used kit for $1500 or go new for the warranty and a self contained V3 unit which would be best. Have to see what the T trim costs, don't see it on the Vortech site but I'm sure its easy enough to contact them or Beefcake or whoever and request the 4V kit with an upgraded HU.

Or just stick with the S because it can do 20psi lol. I'm not gonna run 20psi...
 

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Yeah probably should just do that. Figure I can find a good used kit for $1500 or go new for the warranty and a self contained V3 unit which would be best. Have to see what the T trim costs, don't see it on the Vortech site but I'm sure its easy enough to contact them or Beefcake or whoever and request the 4V kit with an upgraded HU.

Or just stick with the S because it can do 20psi lol. I'm not gonna run 20psi...
A v3 is all you need.

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Discussion Starter #1,184
Prolly yes. I just dunno, I like the way the PD blowers perform and sound but for what I'm doing it might not be best. Plus I like a blower that won't run out of steam at 7K+. Plus a gate setup works well. Hell I can start looking for a 4V Novi kit now brand new or used that was in better shape than the one I sold to get the car back to "original" as far as options.

Anyway, guy with those A arms would not budge on price. I'm probably just going to get the bushings and balljoints myself and roll with the 99-04 style GT arms.

So...

-X2 balljoints
-A arm bushings (FTBR recommends Global West, but that is $180 vs $50 MM bushings...)
-Bumpsteer kit/outer tie rod ends
-Inner tie rod ends
-Endlinks
-Swaybar mounts/bushings
-Offset steering rack bushings

That should be about it... I don't even know if I need bumpsteer or inner/outer tie rods. Car is only lowered about .75" up front and the alignment shop said the tie rod ends were good when they did the alignment in December. Offset rack bushings would probably be more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,185
Also got some pics of our Mustangs at work parked next to each other. There was another Coyote, a 2011 red with white stripes but that guy just PCS'd back to the states. There are two 05-09 V6s here also and AFIAK there is at least one 99-04 V6 too. I am trying to find out who owns that car to see if he wants to sell it for like $500 when he leaves so I can rip a bunch of spare body parts/panels off it and then scrap it. Its a 03 V6 too so it has that better reverse cowl hood which I'd love to get and paint silver with the recessed area blacked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,188 (Edited)
I like those! Hmmm, maybe CO’s won’t be needed in my situation. Thanks for posting!



IG: @ ab_mach1
UPR sells a set of spring perches that allow you to run stock or aftermarket A arms with perches with their K. It says only the chromoly K member on their site but 0 idea why it wouldn't work with their mild steel one too. Mild steel is the way to go on the street anyway.


I dunno I might wind up going that route after all if the perches work. Tigvision sells a set of pan savers for UPR (and others) K members too but it doesn't look like they sit forward enough where they would take an impact at the front of the oil pan like hitting a speed bump too fast or a random pothole or something... which is my main concern going tubular.


BMR A arms and the UPR MS K member with perches would be like $600 for all of it tho and I wouldn't have to do **** except install it and then get an alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,189
Sooo... think I figured out my idle problem. Something simple and stupid but apparently the 96-98 IAC and the 99/01 IAC use completely different methods of air bypass and are specific to their respective manifolds. The fact that the car does idle as well as it does once warmed up is just dumb luck I suppose. New Motorcraft IAC on the way.

Also replacing the driver's window this weekend so that'll finally be fixed. And I grabbed some 94-98 SN95 export mirrors the other day as well. They are mint as far as the glass and the plastic and the metal. They do need to be painted badly but I got them CHEAP. Gonna wrap them up and keep them safe in storage till the car gets painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,190
Took over 2 weeks fot the IAC to come in... then I was in Germany again last week. Got the IAC in, idle is definitely fixed or at least it will be with a revised tune. Lot more range for this one to work properly as when I set the TPS to right under 1v it starts from cold to about 800 and then after warmed up its at 1100-1200 so my tuner is going to take a look at the idle logs I sent and fix the IAC so it works correctly.

Also replaced the driver's window and those things SUCK to properly adjust like... really hate that design that has to window channel for it to slide into but whatever. Its still not quite right, I'll get it set properly this weekend. I also need to redo my entire mancave this weekend, 4K curved 65" Samsung picked up last week plus I got a whole bunch of high end computer games for cheap on the recent Steam sale so... gonna have to put my rig to work there.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,192 (Edited)
Well retune is free but if it cant get tuned to run stock that'll be next step. Will probably run like it did with the incorrect 96-98 IAC on it, like an old carb'd car at start have to hold the gas till it catches and warms up and then good. I did need to really crank the idle up with the set screw during the summer so it didn't bog when I ran the AC tho.

I'm sure once I get the new tune this correct 99/01 IAC will be fine although it makes one hell of a hissing noise. Hopefully the new tune will turn down how much air its bypassing and it'll shut the **** up lol.

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Probably not a good idea to delete the IAC valve on a primarily street driven car that retains all of it's original accessories. The hydro-boost brake assist would be my biggest concern...
 

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Meh... It's basically been deleted since I got it running apparently lol. The 96-98 valve was 1, the wrong one and, upon closer inspection, broke...

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Discussion Starter #1,195 (Edited)
Set the TPS to as close to 1V as I could without going over. Car starts up from dead cold in 40 degre weather just fine now. Idles high but tuner can fix that.

Next up is to sort this suspension in this car, its REALLY bad. I mean the IRS is great but mismatched front and rear and I'm pretty sure I've got some binding in the heim joint swaybar endlinks. Car feels like it wants to go sideways when I punch it. Also could be beause the diff is original 1999 which also needs changed...

New parts list:

HR Red Springs
Tokico D specs
Moog greasable problem solver swaybar endlinks
BMR A arms
UPR K with perches

And I really want an Eaton diff but... hard to justify the price when a rebuild kit is $100 and would let me retain the halfshafts I have vs having to get termi ones. That is eventually something to do, but out here I don't plan on the car making more than 375rwhp on street radials at most so 0 need to spend the money.

EDIT: Just going to rebuild the stock diff with new carbon fiber clutches for $100. Leave the 3.27s in there since 90-100mph on the highway here is normal left lane speed for traffic. No leaks or whining from the rear so not even going to screw with anything but the clutches. Getting the damn IRS pumpkin out without dropping the subframe is harder than actually doing it lol. I'll probably do it when I do the springs/shocks so the IRS will be half out. Kicking around putting my trunk mounted battery box in at that time too.

Already ordered the swaybar endlinks, that's cheap and easy. Suspension will get done in a few months. Diff I need to see if any shop here is competent enough to do a gear install in an IRS pumpkin that is removed from the car OR if I can buy a new pumpkin in the states that is already done with gears. Or just buy the tools to do it my damn self and DIY which is probably what I'll do.
 

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If there is nothing, otherwise, wrong with the diff, I would just replace the clutches and clean out the housing real good.
I don't really mind the 3.27's in my car. You have more power, and your engine revs higher than mine... I don't see the problem.

Have you been getting pulled on by some tuned diesels over there Scotty?
 

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I would ditch the 3.27's in a heartbeat. They are horrible NA and still horrible with boost.


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Discussion Starter #1,198 (Edited)
Yeah but when you want to cruise at 100mph and not be whirring down the road at 3500 or 4k for extended periods... That's the main reason I have not done 4.10s yet... The diff makes 0 noise and 0 leaks so the pinion and all the bearings are good AFIAK. The guy whol swapped it with my SRA claimed it had 70k on it but I have 0 way to verify this and there was a lot of jacked up **** on it I had to fix.

Lol Stray, there have been a few of these little Spanish hatches that have tried to race and its just... sad...
 

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Discussion Starter #1,199
Found a set of near new Steeda IRS springs on a FB group. Even with $$$ shipping out here it's gonna be almost $100 less than HR springs new.

I am kicking around 4.10s... issue is I need to go find a shop that rents bays that has presses and bearing separators etc... Parking the car on the street for a few days is not ideal but not really an issue. No room to work on it when it's in the driveway.

As far as the rear kicking out if I punch it sometimes, that's my **** up keeping the stock tie rods and getting a factory alignment. Needs toe in and the beefy ftbr or mm tie rods.

And I'm still considering just bending over and taking it as far as the k member. Want to do longtubes in the future so might wait till then to do it but have to do BMR a arms soon. Plus a MM steering linkage and a bumpsteer kit.

Lot to do... I also want to see if I can find a harbor freight style store within an hour of here. They have everything else here including what is damn near a 100% clone of a Home Depot so I'm sure one exists somewhere.

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That makes sense.
You don't really need an alignment shop to adjust the toe. You can just use a piece of string aligned with the front and rear wheels. If you just make small adjustments to the tie rods, of about 1/4 of a turn at a time, the toe should remain fairly even on both sides. Once you get it to where you want it, you can then go to an alignment shop to verify the amount of toe in, and they can even up the toe on both sides, if necessary.
 
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