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Discussion Starter #1,201 (Edited)
Did some more digging. Yeah the irs tie rods are *** in stock form. Also bumpsteer is a ***** with the irs which the aftermarket ones fix.

I did decide to go "budget" for the front for right now. Just new remanufactured a arms for $80 each, leave the factory k for now, new tie rods/ends, rebuild the 19 year old Steeda cc plates for $50, low mileage Termi Bilstein HD struts up front for $100 to match the back and I found a set of Steeda sport springs for the IRS for $150 with 4k on them off a garage queen.

Can basically overhaul the front suspension to last a few years for $500 and then if I decide to go coilovers or whatever later on I can have not sunk a ton of cash into it.

I'll contemplate doing the K when I do longtubes or do coilovers. If at all... The factory piece is the strongest and the roads here are not all exactly the best so leaving it for now.


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Discussion Starter #1,202
So update... been dailying this thing as much as I can. Stone cold reliable, sounds great, drives great, turns a lot of Spanish heads.

Issue... front end is squeaking like crazy now. 20 year old front suspension=needs total overhaul.

Moving funds around this month and next to get all the parts over here and do the install and I'm gonna do it all right the first time so I don't have to do it again later.

-FTBR rear tie rods, Steeda IRS Sport Springs and Tokico blue shocks to match the front struts(only things left to fix on the rear till I do the diff)
-BMR tubular front A arms
-UPR Mild Steel K with perches
-Max Motorsports CC plates to replace 3 bolt Steeda plates
-New inner and outer tie rods
-New front endlinks

Then... Probably 4.10s out back, replace all the diff clutches and redo the entire exhaust next spring. Longtubes, new midpipe with dummy cats (or maybe real ones), brand new IRS catback (not sure what brand yet), delete EGR and delete PCV. Also probably move battery to trunk.

Inspection here in Spain for American cars is literally just making sure all the lights work, they do a visual for cats and then check the brakes and look for leaks. The JY engine I have in this thing has been awesome and I spin it to 7k routinely.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,204 (Edited)
I didn't know it existed? If it has perches I might but if it's coilover only then no. Also I get a really good mil discount from upr and the upr is a proven piece that works and is made in Florida by an actual legit shop.

Edit:. Just went on the bmr site... Didnt see a sn95 k anywhere.

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I just looked as well, no K member. There was a guy on Instagram that had just bought a set of new A arms. He said he had a BMR K member. I guess he didn't lol. I'm not sure if he was unsure as to what he had or what.

I like BMR's stuff and was kinda getting excited. I see they have A arms with spring perches. Are those the ones you would get?

---------- Post added at 01:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 PM ----------

I just looked as well, no K member. There was a guy on Instagram that had just bought a set of new A arms. He said he had a BMR K member. I guess he didn't lol. I'm not sure if he was unsure as to what he had or what.

I like BMR's stuff and was kinda getting excited. I see they have A arms with spring perches. Are those the ones you would get?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,207
BMR has a S197 K...

Yes the A arms with the cups are the ones I'm getting. With the tall (X2) balljoints if they are still in stock anywhere... I think Lethal has some still.

Yes stray I am doing the bushings lol. Whole thing is gonna be a cluster but worth it in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,208
Damn I love New Edges...
 

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Discussion Starter #1,210
Update... sorta...

Moved houses! This new one has more space, no moisture issues and... space to work on vehicles! Actually has a driveway long enough to fit 3-4 cars

Now that I can actually work on the thing securely in my own yard/driveway vs on the street I'm going to finally be doing the full suspension.

UPR mild steel K, BMR A arms with the tall balljoints, new inner/outer tie rods (bumpsteer kit) on the front, Full Tilt bumpsteer/tie rod kit out back, Steeda springs for IRS on all 4 corners and either Bilstein or Koni shocks/struts all around. Also replacing the old 3 bolt weak CC plates on this with Max Motorsports CC plates. Also will probably do the strut tower brace.

Finally, longtubes and a new mid pipe. Gonna cheap out here most likely because I don't need to spend $1500 on Kooks or something. Pacesetter Armorcoat longtubes fit fine and will be more than ok in a no snow/no salt environment. Matching catless mid pipe and do all this after the annual inspection out here so I can worry about cats/dummy cats later on in the summer. Will get a re-tune from my tuner to hopefully get a little more juice out of the engine. Keeping the 3.27s because I like doing 100+ on the highways here not spinning some stupid high RPM.

After that... probably better tires, these Riken tires I have on here were cheap and what I needed to get the car on the road at the time but they are pretty much Sumitumos when it comes to traction. Probably will get some Mickey Thompson Street Comps shipped out here and installed. Then I'll start concentrating on body mods/paint. And I might even start putting my spare motor together... But the JY motor I have runs so well I'm really kicking around getting an Eaton swap setup shipped out here or even the Cobra Engineering adapter plate to run the M122 instead of the M112. There is 0 need for more than 400rwhp on these roads out here, that with a good suspension and tires will toast basically anything here. The fastest things are usually the $$$$ Mercedes and BMW euro sedans tbth.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,211
Jegs Xmas sale=headers and mid pipe ordered.

Debating on the suspension setup still.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,213
You as well.

And Lethal is having a sale on the BMR A arms but I might just go UPR coilovers with MM cc plates instead.
 

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No moisture issues?
Sounds like it is further away from the beach.

A good set of sticky tires will make the biggest difference of the suspension mods that you listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,215
Nah my suspension is still a frankensuspension. Stock springs and shocks out back, 20 year old front suspension and worn everything lol.

But yeah, swapping the tires for sure too. Probably the Mickey Thompson street comps.

And yeah no moisture issues at all. The huge carport is all wood and absorbs a lot of moisture out of the air. Like I can come out in the morning and dew on everything except the Stang under the carport lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,216
Found some new Cobra IRS Tokico D specs on the evilbays... Grabbed those. Um... Headers and pipe are backordered on jegs so we'll see how long that takes. Now I just gotta decide on if I'm gonna keep the big heavy stock stamped k or replace it... Would likely be the upr mild steel with perches. Ppl bash on them but I've known a few ppl with them and they are solid USA made pieces. Also most ppl who bash suspension don't actually own the suspension they bash...
 

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Discussion Starter #1,217
Crawled under the car the other day, definitely just gonna replace everything. Inner/outer tie rods, new rack bushings, MM steering shaft, MM CC plates, new swaybar bushings and endlinks, bumpsteer kit, BMR A arms with X2 style joints, UPR K and then out back the Full Tilt tie rods to stiffen up the IRS all the way and the exhaust will be longtubes to catted or dummy catted H pipe to a new catback. Probably a Steeda stainless catback or Magnaflow stainless catback. Steeda Sport Springs I already have and the Tokico D specs set to a pretty stiff settting should work well for the street. After that honestly its gonna be better tires and then paint... I found a way to get a hood shipped out here for not a ton of money so I might grab a new hood as well but still looking to see if there are any imported 03/04 V6 parts cars showing up in the Spanish version of Craigslist that I could grab that hood from. Still mad at myself for not forcing the time before I left to grab one of the zillion ones out of a JY in NJ and have it put in my household goods.
 

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I suppose that it must be difficult to find a place with a two-car garage like we are accustomed to here in the states. I have always had one; but they have rarely been used to work on vehicles.... Typically, everything gets done in the driveway, and there have been many times when I wished that there was a carport style roof over my head!

That sounds like a solid suspension setup

If i remember correctly, you just barely got the car running to send it over there. Between that, and getting ready to move out of the country, you must have had plenty of more important things on your mind than car hoods.
I can't remember you ever mentioning what is wrong with your current hood?

Anyway, Happy New Year Scotty!
All the best to you in the next decade!
🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #1,219
Lol nothing wrong with the hood except its the stock 99/00/v6 style hood. I dun like it. I can always get a scoop to put on it I suppose... Clearance issues if I get an Eaton swap is also something to worry about but I know ppl who have done that and with a small pulley and a little dremel work it fits.

Happy new year to you too, hopefully this one is a good one!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,220 (Edited)
So decided after a lot of thinking and budgeting and after hitting a pretty big pothole the other day to keep the stock K in place. Going to go all out as much as can be done with the stock stuff as far as all upgraded bushings/tie rod ends, balljoints etc... 4 point brace... Global West Delrin in the A arms. Also going to swap the hacked together catback for a good stainless one. Probably the Pypes one because I can get it for $470 shipped from Jegs with my discount.

Stock K setup and also forgetting about longtubes due to emissions/inspection rules in some places in Europe leaves some funds for a supercharger. Sticking with the 3.27s out back and an Eaton swap (again OEM stuff) is what I'd like to end up with. Only thing I'd need to upgrade for that would be the fuel pump. Maybe the diff and axles to 03 spec but at under 500hp and the Full Tilt kit out back the 99 axles should be fine on street tires. Set to around 400rwhp on mildish boost and have one hell of a street car. Then paint... this thing needs paint bad and its cheap here...
 
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