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So is this your final decision?

Sounds like a good plan!
Lol

It seems like used superchargers have become very reasonably priced for the 4.6 engines... A lot of folks have moved on to the Coyote, I suppose.
Have you ever seen BoostedF150's channel on YouTube, Scotty?
The dude has a legitimate 10 second work truck! Nothing to complicated, and it will beat similarly equipped Mustangs... And a lot of other cars that you wouldn't necessarily expect to get beaten by a truck.
I think that is the way that I would go if I wanted to supercharge something.
 

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Yeah final decision. Apparently if I go to Germany I can also get failed for aftermarket suspension. They are crazy over there. Like bascially any modification to your car needs to have a way crazier basically of CARB but for everything not just emissions. A UPR K or even a MM K might be deemed not road legal. Keeping the stock K and stock stamped A arms plus all the control arms and stuff in the rear in the IRS is just re-bushed OEM. New springs and shocks are wear items and can be explained. Manifolds are stock, exhaust can be explained as needing replaced and I can get a stock pipe shipped out here to swap in if I need to. Non military Spanish inspections can be a little crazy too but not to that extent.

I've already got a bunch of it ordered. GW Delrin bushings are backordered but should ship in 3 weeks, new CC plates, bumpsteer and all the front bushings/joints are ordered, will get all of that done and then get the exhaust afterwards. Only thing I am not sure of is if I want to spend the extra $240 on billet front swaybar brackets and Delrin swaybar bushings up front vs the chincy stamped stock ones. Mine look OK but I'm going to be driving this thing pretty hard around corners and even going to some track events in Jerez.

After this it's take a break and then see how much paint is during the warmer months. At my RC plane club one of the guys is a professional automotive painter at a shop in town. Going to see if he can do any side work or what it would cost. Paint is stupid cheap here. Hell everything is stupid cheap here.

And yeah I can get a whole ready to go Eaton swap for $3000 at once but I'm going to start piecing it together I think vs trusting someone to do it all right. Like grab a nice low mileage blower when I can and look for bargains. Will have to be the Eaton because, again, OEM.
 

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Well, if that's how the Germans want to be, I'd find an old BMW Isetta, or a Fiat 500, and I would drive it on their damned autobahn every day to work!
 

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Lol I have been up to 135mph in a rental VW sedan on the Autobahn...
 

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Almost had a guy pull out on me because of this POS cluster that Steeda did back when they built the car. They have got to be legit the worst white faces I've ever owned... blinker was stuck on right and I couldn't see it during the day and I guy thought I was turning. Promptly ordered a 03/04 Cobra cluster from a guy on FB classifieds I've bought from before. He tested it for me and everything works. Swap is easy, I'll swap the odometer board over which contains the mileage and PATS and then just drop it in. Will run a vac line to the boost gauge for if/when I supercharge it and also finally install my aftermarket oil and water temp gauges.
 

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Parts started coming in. Got some Pacesetters as a gift from Dad so I guess I am doing longtubes. More on the way. Gonna strip and redoat the Pacesetters. Maybe wrap them. It never rains here.

303393
 

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That's why I don't trust people when they use their blinker to signal a turn. I appreciate the effort, and the gesture, but I usually won't pull out until I am sure that they intend to make the indicated turn.
Too many close calls! Lol

Just leave the headers on for inspection. And I would just let them rust, and do what they are going to do.
I doubt that any inspector in Europe will be familiar enough with that car to know what they are looking at. Especially if the exhaust system doesn't look like it has just been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,228 (Edited)
Yeah I don't either but I hate being "that guy"...

You think I should just wire wheel off the flange to get a solid seal when I bolt them up and then let the paint burn off? Like I said it doesn't really rain here, my aluminized H pipe and catback are dirty but have 0 corrosion on them. I woulda much rather had the Armorcoat versions but... can't beat free and the Armorcoats aren't stainless either. I have heard that people don't tend to have great luck with the "flame proof" paints but I have heard from multiple ppl who've used Rustoleum grill paint that it works real well.

I still might wrap them with that DEI titanium heat wrap stuff just to keep the heat in the engine bay down and the starter cool.

Anyway more stuff coming in the mail, full tilt tie rods and more front stuff.
 

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Now that I think about it, it has been a few decades since I have dealt with a set of headers that were not stainless, or chrome. Probably, the high-heat paint technology has improved some, in that time.
I was just thinking if they get crusty looking, they will blend in better for any future inspections. Don't know if that would be any help though...

I was tempted to wrap the headers on my truck.... They cook the starter motor and it makes it hard to start when it is hot. Instead, I wrapped the starter which did seem to help, but it still gets hot after a long drive on a warm day. Now it probably traps the heat in the starter for longer. Someday, I might fab up a heat-shield and try that.
The general consensus seems to be that wrapping headers on a street-driven vehicle is not a good idea.
 

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Hmm... What reasons are given for that? I would have thought the opposite.
I think that the main reason is the wrap can trap moisture, causing the headers to prematurely rust out. Also, the wrap holds the heat inside of the header, causing the metal to become heat-stressed, and fatigued, resulting in cracks.
There are no header manufacturers who will warranty their product if they have been wrapped.
 

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Good info. I would have never guessed, but it makes sense. I was considering a set of Kooks a while back, but concern for excessive heat and tuning considerations held me back.

I’ve been that guy with the overheated starter and being stuck some place until it cooled down. Didn’t want those issues again, and pondered wrapping. Now I know.
 

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I've been told the titanium wraps out now are good if you do a SINGLE layer. What I've been reading is that the biggest issues are for ppl who wrap the **** out of the header. Even the ceramic ones I've had that weren't stainless would corrode after not very long on the car and I'm not paying $1800+ for headers when even if I paid for these vs gifted they would be sub $400.

Doing taxes today and then waiting on return and I'll be good to do this suspension overhaul and then onto the looks. I can actually get an aftermarket Saleen body kit shipped out here and I'm working with Steeda to see if I can get one of their hoods included in a container shipment that goes from Steeda USA to Steeda Europe. If not then I'll probably cut out the fake scoop in the 99/00 hood and install stainless mesh to make it functional.

Getting really stoked about the car for the first time in a long time. I mean I love the car but it's all coming together now. Finally. I bought the thing in 2015 lmao.
 
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