Mustang Evolution Forum banner

1241 - 1260 of 1296 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,242
Lol not mine and correct with all the beautiful places around here to take a pic it would def be one of those...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,243
So figuring out what body kit to get out here. The kbd saleen kit I saw apparently is a train wreck so that is out. A full real saleen kit would be too expensive just for shipping. Roush... I have not got a catback yet so I could figure out the roush front shipping here and the sidepipes and rear panels can go milair. Side exhaust I could buy from Spintech. This is interesting as it gets rid of the exhaust and irs issue with the exhaust overheating the pumpkin. Other option is a certfit termi bumper and get bullitt or termi skirts and leave the rear.

Or just put a new lip on the GT front and leave it but tbth I really dislike the GT body kit. Nothing fits like oem, luckily the roush and certfit stuff is OEM.

Also still looking to swap hoods but hoping one of the many imported 99-04 V6 cars in Spain will turn up in a jy and it'll be an 03/04 with the Cobra hood. Last one was a 99... Broke my heart...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,395 Posts
As far as the skirts go, I would try to find the Terminator style.... The Bullitt skirts have the fragile mud flaps, and it will probably be difficult to find a complete set in good condition, for a reasonable price.
Don't forget the Termi side mirrors!

Why are there so many V6 Mustangs in Spain?
I didn't think that there were any cars exported, except for the Australian Cobras ....
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,245
Lol I have sn95 export mirrors, they are even better. I can get fiberglass with a flex agent bullitt skirts with no lip for $330 brand new or try to find OEM termis but $$$$.

The big issues are the hood and the bumper. I had a guy who could do container shipping but that fell through for now. Steeda can get a hood to madrid 6 hours away but then I have to figure the Spanish over taxes and imports which I'm not supposed to have to pay being us mil but getting them to actually honor it is fun.

In the meantime I'm ordering the last few things for the front suspension.

This isn't gonna be like before where the car sat, k member drop and exhaust is a weekend job.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,246
Oh also to answer your question about the V6s, the Spanish love Mustangs and the pre S550 cars are desirable for the cool/exclusivity factor. The V6 being that much cheaper when you are paying 28% tax plus import fees... Also the sixxer is very easy to get through Spanish emissions. The GT can make it through but its a lot harder and basically anything besides a catback is a no-go for anyone not in my situation where the on-base USMil inspection is little more than a safety check and a visual that you have cats.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,247
So nothing fits like stock so I'm just going to stick with the GT body for now and even the GT hood. I'll open up the "scoop" to be actually functional when I paint it or I'll do the CDC shaker. Yeah its way expensive for what it is but vs paying for a hood and shipping and paint... Plus when I finally do the blower I can direct that forced air directly onto the unit to cool it off. Talked to a few ppl with Centris and a ram air or even just cut out scoop on these cars and the underhood temps are lowered pretty drastically. Plus a shaker just has a cool factor...

Other dilemma... what the hell exhaust do I want? Steeda sounds great and this is a real Steeda car but I've already removed a ton of the "Steeda" stuff that came on the car and swapped it so originality is kinda out the door at this point. Steeda (borla) catback is $800 shipped to me. Pypes M80 a LOT of guys run and its $477 shipped to me. Both are stainless and both fit well. I'm really gonna have to install cats at $129 for the flowmasters so probably gonna go with the Pypes system. Cats should get rid of most of the raspiness and popping and it'll still be nice and loud without being omfg loud. The Steeda catback is not the Borla stingers, its the "quiet" borla exhaust. I really can't justify another $325 for a "different" sound as both sound real good when done right.

Flowmasters are out, they drone too much and that's what I have now with the stock manifolds, catted mid pipe and stock IRS tailpipes. SLP is more expensive than the Pypes too plus more shipping. The Pypes one is so cheap because its very modular and ships in a box small enough to ship MilAir vs having to get it shipped to my forwarding address and then pay $85 shipping for them to forward an oversize box.

Taxes will be in soon, then finishing up the last few things with the IRS and my "final decision" went out the window when my father bought me longtubes since if I'm going to drop the K to do longtubes I'm putting a new K in it. Max Motorsports K is sitting in my garage right now lol. A arms on the way as soon as they are off backorder. Coilovers are on the way too and they'll work with the D Specs I already have. Hoping to get the car to a few track events at the Jerez racetrack (Jerez, Spain has a badass road course 20 min away) this late spring/summer. Car club I belong to has a few hookups so if I can get some sort of license to get it out there and actually legit do time trails or whatever that is going to be a wet dream come true.

Another reason to keep the stock body kit is the diffusers available for these cars now, the GT/99/01 Cobra bumper styles have a real nice diffuser setup, probably will also do diffusers on the side skirts and the Magic Drift diffuser/lip on the front bumper. I still will probably try to get a new bumper out here because I am not the fondest of the smiley face GT bumper (plus not a lot of airflow for an intercooler) but I'll roll with it for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,395 Posts
Yes!
Jump at the chance to get some track time!
Start thinking about getting an appropriate racing helmet.

I'm not sure about European tracks, but some tracks here in the States have decibel limits, so you may want to do a little investigating over there before you make a final decision on the exhaust system.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,249
I hadn't thought of a decibel limit although there are a ton of super loud bikes that race that circuit as well... Hmmm. Well I know the Steeda is quietish and sounds good. Might just have to bite the bullet on that one to be safe...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,395 Posts
It might be a non-issue over there, I don't know.... They may laugh at the idea of a racetrack with a sound decibel limit. It's just something to think about if you want to take your car out on the local track. It's better to learn the regulations beforehand, rather than being disappointed on your first day.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,251
I just checked, no decibel limit on the track. I'd be more worried about out in town tbth lol.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,253
Welp... the culture is real different here... and I live in what you'd consider the "rural South" if you compared it to the USA as far as infrastructure, farming etc... I have pissed a few ppl off but its not bad. Bike week you have a LOT of rice rockets doing the rev limiter bounce thing around a circuit that goes right along the beach in front of all the clubs and bars only a few minutes from my house, the summer gets pretty crazy here its literally a resort town.

Still waiting on the MM control arms, they are backordered and probably will not arrive here until the 1st or 2nd week in March at the earliest so now really just waiting...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,254
Did some googling around for keeping those bare headers I'm going to put on from corroding. There is almost 0 rain here, no road salt or anything like that whatsoever but there is humidity and I'm right on the water so the sea air has salt in it. Bought a $30 harbor freight roofer's torch which I can find other uses for and a few cans of VHT flame proof paint. Should be here in a week. Going to nuke all the shipping paint off the headers with the torch and then sand off whatever is left and hit it all with brakleen. Then hang them up and give them 3 good coats and let them dry in the sun. I talked to a few guys who had good results with the VHT and they always say the **** doesn't work when ppl touch the bare headers and get oil on them after cleaning and don't cure them properly. Curing with the torch=sticking the end of it with a low heat into the collector and slowly heating the whole thing until the paint starts to just barely smoke and then let it cool. Do that 5 or 6 times and it'll stop smoking and done.

And if the paint flakes off in a year or two well then they were free and I'd rather spend the $50 for a torch and some paint than 10x that much to get the Armorcoat ones when I've bought "ceramic" headers in the past and the coating is just crap and flakes off anyway. If these suck and cause me issues for whatever reason I'll just replace them in a year or two with JBA stainless mid lengths I suppose...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,256
not rly. its more for longevity.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,257
Stang is getting Spanish annual inspection today. As soon as it's done I'll run the tank almost dry and then put it up for the modifications. Will start on the rearend, do the new FTBR tie rods and front diff mounts as well as drop the tank and install the proper IRS fuel line (that doesn't run right by the exhaust) and I might as well do the fuel pump while I'm in there. And move the battery to the trunk too. I have a kit from Summit that is literally new in the box from 2009 that was going to go in my 95 Cobra and then 98 GT and never got around to either lol.

Rear setup will be the FTBR IRS, Steeda Sport springs, FTBR tie rods, Steeda diff brace and the stock 3.27 gears. The diff currently has 0 issues at all so not going to worry about cracking it open and rebuilding it at this time.

Then starting on the front as soon as my front control arms come in. Decided to go with the Pypes M80 catback. I have the Pacesetter offroad pipe but I'm sure it will be very easy to cut and mod the current UPR Magnaflow catted pipe to fit the longtubes. If not I will have a year to figure it out but I want the catted pipe to cut down on the rasping and popping from the M80s.

What else... ordering a NOS Ford car alarm that was installed (not completely or properly) in this car because I really like having an alarm here in Spain with this car and mine is now malfunctioning um... finally scraping all the old tint off the back windows and having that redone properly and then I'll enjoy it for the summer and worry about body parts/paint next winter. Always on the lookout for an aftermarket 99-04 hood over here or someone with a 03/04 V6 hood. There are two V6s on base here that are 03/04... I'm half tempted to find the owners and ask if they want a GT hood and straight trade with them and pay for paint to match their car.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,258
So going through calculations on spring rates and all with the rear being standard Steeda springs and the front is going to be X hypercoils on coilovers... basically if I go a 325 rate in the front I'll get around a 55/45 distribution on the rates. Read a lot of threads on it and for a street car with the IRS and the dampers I have this should be about as good as I'm going to get it until I swap the rears to coilovers and go full Konis. At that point I'll run something like 450/550 and track the car a lot more. For now I want it to ride nice and I am on a budget... The D specs can handle up to 375 up front but that would be super stiff vs the back springs.

Taxes came in today, ordered exhaust, coilovers, swaybar stuff misc stuff etc... Going on one last cruise with it to Cadiz Sierra on Sunday and then will start on it next week. The Full Tilt tie rods and aluminum front diff bushings should be in monday or tuesday. Going to shim the diff up as high as it'll go in the front to cut down on pinion angle as much as possible and tighten up that weak point. Only thing left to beef it up more is to go to the FRPP rear cover which I will do when I go for a power adder but at the level I'm at now I'm find with the brace and the 99 spec axles.

What else... that's pretty much it... Maybe a MGW shifter because even tho its a Steeda car and the Tri Ax is great for slamming gears it is NOISY lol. Plus I like the angle the race spec shifter puts the knob at.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,259
I'll continue talking to myself in this thread just to keep documenting lol. All good.

More stuff came in as well as the car has started to be a little long cranking to start up with. Doesn't do it if I cycle the igntition to prime the pump 3-5 times so I'm assuming it is a bad check valve in the pump. Pump is original AFIAK unless Steeda swapped it with something in 2000 but I have no idea if they did and a pump mod was not on the build sheet. I went ahead and bought the white box 300lph drop in replacement pump that everyone buys and also that BBK sells marked up even tho the only difference is their name on it. Going to drop the tank next time its "on fumes" and swap it out. Good to replace it after 20 years anyway... #39 Terminator injectors, stock line/rails and this pump will support more than enough power for what I am doing.

Speaking of BBK... well I had to buy a BBK product... Held my nose and did it. Main issue is that the car came with crappy regular length DIY subframes from either Steeda or a previous owner. I would love to not buy BBK subframes but talking to some of the Spanish here none of the local mechanics have ever done a set for an American car and I don't trust them to not mess it up so... BBK bolt ons and I'll do the install in my driveway with all 4 wheels with weight on ramps and then I will take the car to one of the dudes in my car club who can weld and pay him in cerveza to just crawl under the car with it on ramps again and weld it all up. I got the ones that come with already welded on seat brackets from Amazon for $150. Needs to have a lot of the exhaust removed to properly install so yet another thing adding to the long list of stuff I'm going to be doing to this car all at once.

What else... my 20 year old original Ford car alarm started acting up so I was able to find multiple NOS units available on the evilbays for $50. Grabbed one of them, got a fresh module, fresh sensors/wiring and the installation instructions which I could not find ANYWHERE online.

So... car is going to be going down hopefully this weekend. I have all the stuff for the rear ready to go as far as the FTBR aluminum front mount, tie rods and a 11/16" DS spacer to get some more of the yoke into the tailshaft of the trans (DS guy shortened it up about 1/2" too much). Springs I've had... Dropping the IRS in the rear to do all that stuff is actually real easy, put a jack under the pumpkin, put a little pressure on it and unbolt the 2 rear mounting bolts and drop it down. No isolators now and don't plan on putting them in with the new springs unless for some reason the rear sits super low, then I'll have to order them...

Then its just wait for the few things left for the front install to come in... still waiting on the damn MM control arms to ship. Plenty to do to prep in the meantime tho... remove the front bumper and fenders, fix the car alarm and relocate the siren, delete the washer reservoir/motor and flatten out that hump in the fender liner so the wheel doesn't rub... also relocate that wiring harness. Relocate the battery to the trunk as well while the fuel tank is out for the pump change and then put the vented catch can I have there for the PCV delete I'm doing. When the subframes come in I'll install them and by then hopefully these damn A arms will be here and I can do the big job of the K and the longtubes. Oh, also have the torch I ordered and going to burn off all the paint from the headers/clean them and then spray and cure them before putting them on. If it doesn't work oh well, hopefully some of it stays on... you can't see the headers from the engine bay anyway.

Um... I think that's it minus a few BS things like new SVE leather shift boots for the shifter/e brake and also replacing the 20yr old noisy Tri Ax with a MGW Race... Will be ordering a FR500 wheel most likely from LMR once its all done and driving and I know everything is good with getting other cosmetic stuff. Also can install water/oil gauges and move the wideband to the column... And my Terminator gauge cluster...

Yeah I have a shitton to do on this car lol. Can't wait.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,395 Posts
Still following along! Haha

That's definitely a long list!
In the absence of any diagnostic trouble codes, I would suspect the fuel pump as well. Strange for a low mileage pump, but it seems like many things have a shelf-life nowadays.
I could not even consider deleting the windshield wash pump and reservoir. We occasionally get these huge swarms of gnats around here, and they will completely cover the windshield in a matter of seconds. Sometimes it's touch and go whether you can make it to your destination with any wiper fluid left! Lol

As always, looking forward to following along with your progress!
 
1241 - 1260 of 1296 Posts
Top