[scottydsntknow]

Have to delete it... no room for the wheel to go full lock if I don't. Plus with the repro cowl cover over the wipers the one nozzle is all wonky anyway. I keep a bottle of windex and a newspaper in my "kit" in the car anyways if it ever got that bad. I rarely need it tho. And remember this car sat for literally years. 2 before I had it and then like 3 when I had it... the pump works fine its just the check valve most likely. Again this morning cycled it 3 times and it fired right up strong. Went to get lunch and didnt and it cranked for like 4 seconds and then weak started. Plus I should be upgrading the pump anyway. Easy to drop and change plus then I can do my battery relocate.

Only other thing I am really kicking around is a Novi headunit that Jon Bond has for sale. Its only a 1000 but is basically an S trim and has real good mid range and still pulls up to 7K. Its $2k tho for just the HU... that's a LOT of money but its fully rebuilt with all top end stuff with a warranty... I think I'm going to keep looking for a used CCW 1000 or 2000 headunit for cheap tho...

 

[scottydsntknow]

Scrapping the idea of a supercharger for now. This engine has like 55k miles on it and is running like a screamer. So its getting 4.30s out back. Going to drop the pumpkin out, put it in the vise and go to town. I am confident I can do gears, just need a bearing separator and a few BS other tools. Will do the axle bearings too while I'm at it and rebuild the diff too. Will not need to upgrade the axles to 31 spline with street tires and staying NA.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Did all the ordering today.

4.30 motives from Amazon
Dial gauge from Amazon
Digital calipers from Amazon
Bearing splitter/puller from Amazon
Gear change set from lmr
Pinion depth tool from lmr
IRS hub bearings from lmr
New pinion flange from lmr
Carbon fiber Trac loc rebuild kit from Blue Oval

That should be about it...

 

[straybullitt]

In the future, we are all going to have to be careful about the source of our auto parts... A while back, I discovered that there are many unscrupulous vendors on Ebay and Amazon repackaging inexpensive knockoff parts into counterfeit OEM packaging. Motorcraft, in particular, but it seems widespread across all brands. And it would be very difficult for the average "layman" to tell the difference! It is the reason that OEM's frequently change the design of their packaging nowadays.
I now wonder if this practice also extends to aftermarket parts as well. Like maybe throwing a set of less expensive American produced gears into a box that says "Made in Italy"?
Just something to be aware of.

4.30 is pretty aggressive. I'm curious why you chose that specific ratio?

 

[scottydsntknow]

Seller is Motive Gear so I think I'm ok.

Chose 4.30s because I have a 7k+ redline and the difference between 4.10s and 4.30s on the highway is like 140rpm. I routinely cruise at 3k+ on the highways here and honestly it'll probably be smoother and quieter at 3500.

 

[straybullitt]

That should liven it up!
You'll be banging through the gears! Haha

I wonder which ratio makes first gear completely useless? 4.56? 4.88? 5.14? 5.71??

 

[scottydsntknow]

A lot of NA 4V ppl run 4.56s actually lol. Cammed NA 4V making like 375 to the wheels with 4.56 and a stalled auto=crazy fast 1/4 car. 28" tall slicks helps too...

What really made me decide to gear the car finally was a cruise I took the other day with my car club. Lower speeds going around corners in 2nd the RPM were just too low to power out like the car should be able to. Every single person I've talked to with gears in a serious or serious-ish NA 4V has said the more gear the better. I have no doubts the car with all the new suspension, full exhaust, new tune and the gears is going to be fast as hell for a street car around here.

 

[straybullitt]

Back in the 1960's, you could get 4.56 gears as a factory option.

These little engines just don't make enough torque at low RPM. I had the same problem when I was autocrossing. The only option that I had was to go to 3.55 gears. The class that I was racing in only allowed gears that were a factory option.
I decided to leave the 3.27's because they allowed me to run the longest possible straightaway, at this particular track site, in second gear. 4.10's would likely necessitate a shift to third on some tracks, which would inevitably lead to a downshift back into second gear... Too many opportunities for me to make a mistake! Lol
I decided to just carry as much speed through the corners as possible. I discovered that it is sometimes faster to hit a cone, and take the penalty, if the corner was too tight, rather than slowing the car down too much, and losing momentum.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Lol shoulda 4V swapped it. I had/have a "calibrated ear" from driving foxes, SN95 5.0s and 2Vs since I was 19. My ear hears it getting close to 6K my instinct is to shift. This car I have another 1000-1200 RPM and it isn't running out of steam getting close to redline like the 2V does. Although with a good set of NA cams the stock 2V springs can handle 6500 so that is the other option. Sometimes I really kick myself for selling that blue 2V I had but it was what it was at the time. This silver car is in much better shape overall and just finally ticked over 40k original miles.

 

[straybullitt]

Haha
That was my final conclusion as well!
It just seemed like a lot of work to install a set of gears! Lol

I never really felt like I fully mastered the Bullitt. It always seemed like it was me holding it back.... A better line, smoother, more agressive driving, and a succession of more sticky tires, seemed to provide noticeably improved results. Good enough, to where I felt like the car and I weren't an embarrassment out there, anyway.

So how are things going over there?
They have us all on lockdown here in CA....

 

[scottydsntknow]

Been on lockdown since Sunday. Going kinda stir crazy but we can go out to walk a dog or for groceries or throw out trash... I was going to start working on the Stang during this downtime but it keeps raining and like... 2 parts I need to do the front suspension didn't come in yet lol. Exhaust is here, I might just put the catback on to get it on the car and out of the way and also bolt on the subframes just to get them on the car. I will have them welded in place when I can actually go out again lol.

Hope you guys are doing ok over there. Italy is really bad here and Spain was on that trajectory before this shutdown. Even the military bases are at min manning... I really hope the US gov't pushes through some sort of medicare for all during this crisis/permanently.

 

[crjackson2134]

Been on lockdown since Sunday. Going kinda stir crazy but we can go out to walk a dog or for groceries or throw out trash... I was going to start working on the Stang during this downtime but it keeps raining and like... 2 parts I need to do the front suspension didn't come in yet lol. Exhaust is here, I might just put the catback on to get it on the car and out of the way and also bolt on the subframes just to get them on the car. I will have them welded in place when I can actually go out again lol.

Hope you guys are doing ok over there. Italy is really bad here and Spain was on that trajectory before this shutdown. Even the military bases are at min manning... I really hope the US gov't pushes through some sort of medicare for all during this crisis/permanently.

There’s gotta be something you can find to tinker with. Fracking rain and pollen are keeping my cars looking crappy. I washed my cars yesterday when the rain cleared up, only to be bombarded by yellow pollen. They look like $hit again.

The stores are all closed here too, there’s nothing left to do but tinker around online.

 

[straybullitt]

Same here. Kind of a soft lockdown.
I live in a very small town in the mountains.... Not much has changed except for the grocery store shelves being empty for a few days. It makes me realize that I have pretty much been in a self-imposed soft lockdown since I moved here a few years back! Lol
Hoping for the best for everyone, and, as they say, "This too shall pass".

 

[straybullitt]

There’s gotta be something you can find to tinker with. Fracking rain and pollen are keeping my cars looking crappy. I washed my cars yesterday when the rain cleared up, only to be bombarded by yellow pollen. They look like $hit again.

The stores are all closed here too, there’s nothing left to do but tinker around online.

It's frustrating. I live on a gravel road and need to put a cover on immediately after washing to keep the dust off.
I've mostly just given up hope of having a "spotless' vehicle. Lol

 

[scottydsntknow]

I need to buy a good Sn95 cover once we start getting mail here again... Any recommendations? Just pollen and salt air gets a film on the car even when I washed it a day or two prior.

 

[straybullitt]

I've been using Covercraft. The fitment is great.... I mean like a glove!
And I haven't noticed any permanent paint damage from long-term use.
Covercraft has two different materials for their covers, and I have used both types. The "Deluxe" cover is made with a Tyvek type of material and holds up reasonably well, but the side exposed to direct sunlight seems to start to deteriorate after a couple of years.
The "Noah" cover is made from from a material that I am completely unfamiliar with. I can only surmise that it came over on the Ark, so it must have been very important at the time. Anyway, it seems like a more robust material than the Tyvek. I'm on the second year with the Noah, and it is, so far, holding up noticeably better than the Deluxe... It's more expensive so that should be expected.

 

[crjackson2134]

I've been using Covercraft. The fitment is great.... I mean like a glove!
And I haven't noticed any permanent paint damage from long-term use.
Covercraft has two different materials for their covers, and I have used both types. The "Deluxe" cover is made with a Tyvek type of material and holds up reasonably well, but the side exposed to direct sunlight seems to start to deteriorate after a couple of years.
The "Noah" cover is made from from a material that I am completely unfamiliar with. I can only surmise that it came over on the Ark, so it must have been very important at the time. Anyway, it seems like a more robust material than the Tyvek. I'm on the second year with the Noah, and it is, so far, holding up noticeably better than the Deluxe... It's more expensive so that should be expected.

Great post... I've been pondering a car cover and needed some pointers. I have a birdcrap issue in my front yard and not garage. In other sessions, I have a acorn falling from the trees problem. I actually got a rather ugly dent in my trunk lid a few years ago from an acorn. It was easily fixed with a pointless-dent-repair but that cost me $50 for the guy to come out. It's like Russian roulette in my yard... I so need a garage...

 

[scottydsntknow]

Welp as soon as I can actually get anything shipped here again I'll order one lmao. Thanks for the advice. Going to put the fake scoop for the 01-04 cars on my hood, matte vinyl wrapped and matte vinyl on the raised part of the hood as well. Will pull the old messed up gloss vinyl off my roof and redo that in matte black as well plus a Steeda wing and I'm still kicking around a 00R or Saleen bumper. I know the R is super low but the roads here are actually super good and I do plan on tracking the car. Will be how I roll with the car until I finally track down a wrecked 03/04 V6 in Spain and get the damn hood off it. Or pony up and have one shipped here but that's like $1400 shipped to my door or $800 to Madrid and I'll have to fight them over adding 28% IVA and import taxes and its 6hrs away.

Anyway, driving the car tomorrow to run the gas tank down to "fumes" and then doing the fuel pump. I know the check valve in the pump is bad because if I cycle the pump 3 or 4 times the car fires instantly but if I don't it chugs over and starts hard. Also the new one is the Walbro 300lph one so that'll be good for as fuel flow goes for as much power as I'll ever make. Then I'm going to install the catback just to get it on the car and out of being a bigass box taking up space in my shed. And do the bolt on subframes before I put the catback on, I will have them welded as soon as everything opens back up.

And I really freaking hope my MM front control arms ship at some point soon, that is legit the only thing that didn't come in before everything went to hell so I can't do **** with the front suspension till they do. Worst case I guess I figure out how to get some rebuilt stockers from Amazon ones the mail starts again and run them for however many months it takes until MM gets off their ass.

I will say this about MM... the company is SUPER dickish and they take FOREVER to get anything done. If it's not in stock at the time you'll be waiting months for them to actually get their stuff built and back from powdercoating and shipped. I called customer service to talk to them about coilover rates and the guy basically hung up on me because I bought my K member from LMR vs them even though I was going to get the coilovers and springs from them but I couldn't even let the guy know before he started going off so I hung up. MM does have probably the best stuff for your average street car or even American Iron racer but holy **** they are full of themselves. I will not be buying anything from them in the future since I already have everything I need. Steeda for the strut tower brace, I did BBK for the subframes and I got everything MM I could from LMR. LMR has been more than helpful and I will continue to buy from them first before trying CJP or Summit/Jegs or (shudder) AM.

 

[straybullitt]

That seems like a hell of a lot of money for a hood.

Hopefully the fuel pump solves the problem. I'll be interested in the results. It might motivate me to do mine! Lol. I've had the new pump for several years now, waiting to be installed.

MM probably just doesn't want to deal with you foreigners....
🤪

 

[ab_mach1]

How are you and the family doing out there in Spain? All this covid19 virus stuff seems pretty crazy out there...well, everywhere lol.