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What would you do?

  • Replace with new longblock

    Votes: 3 60.0%
  • Replace with new shortblock

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Rebuild current motor

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Part out the car

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    5
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

I think I posted this in the wrong forum earlier...

I believe I have developed rod knock after a series of questionable decisions.

My primary question: is it worth it to replace or rebuild the motor?

I know this question is highly subjective, but I'm hoping someone can share their own experiences to help me decide what to do.

So I have a 2011 GT/CS 6sp that I daily drive. It has 149k on the ODO and it has been stock for all of it's life up until spring of this year when I replaced the clutch with a SPEC stage 3+ and SPEC steel flywheel. At that time, I also purchased a REV X by BAMA so I could perform the crank relearn.

I put their Stage 1 tune on around May. Around The turn of July, I got a P0349 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent Bank 2 and my research told me that it was actually a problem with the alternator. I was having headlight issues and battery issues earlier in the year so this seemed to make sense.

I got around to replacing the alternator two weeks ago (I used all Ford OEM parts - New, not re-manufactured), and cleared the codes using the REV-X. Two days later the code came back. I have ordered a sensor and it should be here soon, but I have continued to daily drive the car as it hasn't shown any signs of misfire or losing power. Today I accelerated more aggressively than I had been since getting the code and I start hearing the dreaded clak clak that I am convinced is rod knock. The sound appears around 2K RPM and gets progressively worse with the revs. I will have the car towed to a mechanic to confirm my diagnosis tomorrow.

I'm fairly well experienced with replacing engines. I've swapped 3 motors on 90's Escorts and I've had the motor in and out of my 02 WRX more times than I can count. I'm not shy of doing the labor of installing a motor in this car either.

My biggest concern is that this motor seems to be incredibly expensive relative to the car, at least from a quick google search for replacement motors. Long blocks seem to be in the $5-8k range, and I haven't seen anyone selling a shortblock with rotating assembly (any suggestions?). Short of that, I would also be open to having the motor rebuilt, so if anyone could recommend a shop (preferably close to central NC though I'm not opposed to freight), I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your time and I hope I'm able to get back on the road soon!
 

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Ford Gen2 longblock that is ready to drop into any 11-14GT. Done.
 

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I agree with OP, longblocks look incredibly expensive. I am also looking for a Gen 2 short block for the future at a reasonable price (1-2k?) so I am very interested in what you find!! Good luck.
 

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Noise

If you have a main bearing knock it will be a low and intermittent clunking noise, you can listen to it and know that its deep in the engine. Also do you know what you oils pressure is? It might be a good time to check it if you don't have a gauge on it. If its a rod bearing it will be the same but not steady intermittent clunking noise. Wrist pin sounds more clack clack and if you put your hand on the side of the block where its coming from you'll find it. It also could just be a collapsed lifter. If you've got a mechanics stethoscope (about 15.00 from Autozone) You can listen around the tops of your valve covers for the ticking. Or anywhere else.

Hope this helps.
 

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There must be something wrong with my ears.

Wrist Pin noise always sounds like "Cluck, Cluck, Cluck" to me.

Not the sharper sounding noise of "Clack".
 
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