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^ Put a towel over your shoulder and...sorry, couldn't resist! ;)
 

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Just to be clear, how do you "burp" the system?
Make sure the car is cold. Open the cap on the degas bottle. Start the car. Turn the heat and the fan all the way up. Then you just let the car idle for a long time. I did it for like 30 minutes. If you look online some sites say 15-30, others say 45-60... I didn't notice any more bubbles coming out the degas bottle for a while so I called it at 30. Then just turn the car off and fill up with more coolant if needed.

That's what I did, and that was my first time burping a cooling system, so if anyone more experienced has any other suggestions or thinks I did something wrong, please chime in.
 

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That's a good way to get out air in the coolant but it should not be needed because that is what that little hose we are all replacing is for. As far as I can see it's only purpose is to remove air. It is at the highest point in the system so air will be forced into the bottle thru it. That's why it needs a check valve so air does not go the other way. How Ford missed that for 5 years is another story.
 

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That's a good way to get out air in the coolant but it should not be needed because that is what that little hose we are all replacing is for. As far as I can see it's only purpose is to remove air. It is at the highest point in the system so air will be forced into the bottle thru it. That's why it needs a check valve so air does not go the other way. How Ford missed that for 5 years is another story.
Read the beginning of the thread. I needed to do it because I had the problem of air in the system already and needed get the air out of the system. My coolant level was very low and I was getting the gurgling/gushing sound under the dash indicative of air in the heater core. Unlike ponie1992, my dealer didn't cover it under warranty because that TSB says the overflow hose is the causal part, so I just bought the parts myself and purged the air that was already in there using the burping method. You guys are now buying the hose to prevent getting the issue in the first place, so what you said applied to you guys, but not to those like me who already got air in the system.
 

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That's a good way to get out air in the coolant but it should not be needed because that is what that little hose we are all replacing is for. As far as I can see it's only purpose is to remove air. It is at the highest point in the system so air will be forced into the bottle thru it. That's why it needs a check valve so air does not go the other way. How Ford missed that for 5 years is another story.
Oh wait... are you saying that even with air already in the system that the new hose would get the air out?
 

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Oh wait... are you saying that even with air already in the system that the new hose would get the air out?
Like I said ,what else is it for? It probably won't work when coolant gets really low, but yea it will remove air under normal circumstances. Look where it is attached.
 

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it's supposed to. The check valve SHOULD prevent air pressure from the overflow tank from making the pump "loose prime" if the degas hose went to the bottom of the reservoir the check valve would not be needed.

^^^theory from an Industrial Mechanic
 

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Make sure the car is cold. Open the cap on the degas bottle. Start the car. Turn the heat and the fan all the way up. Then you just let the car idle for a long time. I did it for like 30 minutes. If you look online some sites say 15-30, others say 45-60... I didn't notice any more bubbles coming out the degas bottle for a while so I called it at 30. Then just turn the car off and fill up with more coolant if needed.

That's what I did, and that was my first time burping a cooling system, so if anyone more experienced has any other suggestions or thinks I did something wrong, please chime in.
Thank you, really appreciate it. Couldn't hurt to do it anyway after I install the new hose. Thanks again :thumb:
 

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it's supposed to. The check valve SHOULD prevent air pressure from the overflow tank from making the pump "loose prime" if the degas hose went to the bottom of the reservoir the check valve would not be needed.

^^^theory from an Industrial Mechanic
I see what you're saying. On the last thing you said about the location of the overflow hose, however, would it still be acting as an overflow hose if it was at the bottom of the degas bottle? Gettin' very curious about how this system works...
 

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My sense is that the issue the revised hose fixes probably doesn't manifest unless your coolant level is low, because that would put you at more risk of having air sucked into the pump.
 

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Sakib,

the tank is the overflow tank designed to account for how water will expand when it gets heated...normally you'll have a hose into the bottom of it which will allow water into it/out of it as temp changes. idk how often degassing hoses are use but think if the tank was high and the hose went into the bottom any type of extra degassing wouldn't be needed. I do know from working with pumps they can become air bound from pressure built up in them and loose their prime which can cause failure of the pump. The suggestion to run with the cap unscrewed is a good one you can go for a small gentle ride (diner or store) instead of the idling. My old 4.0 Ranger was a nightmare to bleed and after doing the h20 pump I had to run it with the front end up on ramps to get the air out.

sorry your dealer wasn't helpful...that ain't right.
 

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Sakib,

the tank is the overflow tank designed to account for how water will expand when it gets heated...normally you'll have a hose into the bottom of it which will allow water into it/out of it as temp changes. idk how often degassing hoses are use but think if the tank was high and the hose went into the bottom any type of extra degassing wouldn't be needed. I do know from working with pumps they can become air bound from pressure built up in them and loose their prime which can cause failure of the pump. The suggestion to run with the cap unscrewed is a good one you can go for a small gentle ride (diner or store) instead of the idling. My old 4.0 Ranger was a nightmare to bleed and after doing the h20 pump I had to run it with the front end up on ramps to get the air out.

sorry your dealer wasn't helpful...that ain't right.
I understand now. Thanks!

So, I did not change my water pump yet, even though I had the problem. I simply refilled the coolant, bled the air, and changed the hose. The coolant level has not gone down much after driving about 3,000 miles now. I never noticed any drops of coolant either on the floor or around the pump. I'm thinking it is not damaged. Do you think I should change the pump anyway? My coolant level was very low when I had the gurgling noise. Is there a way the level could have gotten low and air gotten in the system if there is no leak? Could there be a very small leak that wouldn't be noticeable in 3,000 miles? FYI my car had 44K miles when the problem presented, now 47K.
 

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if it ain't broke don't fix it.

.02

for others I still recommend replacing the hose as a preventative measure but unless my pump was leaking I wouldn't replace it. w/o insulting keep an eye on the fluid level but normally pumps don't fail all at once they tend to develop leaks 1st. Looking at the pump it does seem rather easy to get to which is nice.
 

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if it ain't broke don't fix it.

.02

for others I still recommend replacing the hose as a preventative measure but unless my pump was leaking I wouldn't replace it. w/o insulting keep an eye on the fluid level but normally pumps don't fail all at once they tend to develop leaks 1st. Looking at the pump it does seem rather easy to get to which is nice.
I agree. But any idea how it got that low in the first place? I remember checking it in January when I went to the track, it was fine, then in March it was super low, almost to the bottom of the degas bottle. How could I lose so much coolant and get air in the system, which is a sealed system, if there wasn't a leak?

Yes, ever since having this issue I've been checking the level every few days.
 

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^ Could have been a small leak in a hose, loose cap, anything, assuming you checked the level only when the engine was cold. I agree with Mud, just keep an eye on it now and if the level starts dropping again, investigate further.
 

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I got burned today on that one. 57,800 on my stang....$500 repair, pump is gone and check valve hose being installed. Technical bulletin has been issued, but told by FORD to hold onto my receipt "in case" it gets recalled. It's defective equipment that they know about. I have filed complaints with the Better Business Bureau, and NHTSA just in case they can get something going....luckily I was at home when my went. But if yours is leaking at all, get it replaced. Mine did twice on occasion before it went and I mean miles in between.
 

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I got burned today on that one. 57,800 on my stang....$500 repair, pump is gone and check valve hose being installed. Technical bulletin has been issued, but told by FORD to hold onto my receipt "in case" it gets recalled. It's defective equipment that they know about. I have filed complaints with the Better Business Bureau, and NHTSA just in case they can get something going....luckily I was at home when my went. But if yours is leaking at all, get it replaced. Mine did twice on occasion before it went and I mean miles in between.
I am digging up this older thread , hopefully to help someone.

There is a Ford rep that seems to help out folks on another Ford forum.....it may be worth a shot contacting that person to see what she says. I posted my question about whether or not the pump is covered under warranty or not even if the orig hose was the valaveless one....will see what she says.

Water pump failure 27k miles. Help? - Ford Mustang Forum

That said, it seems just WRONG that an OEM part that is designed incorrectly and which causes a covered part to fail could cause that part to NOT be covered. It seems hit or miss when you look at different folks posting on different forums....some are covered no problem, others have the same result as you..... :nonono:

Hoping the rep sheds some light on this! And I hope this helps someone.
 

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They should take care of that Ford is usually pretty good. Dodge however is HORRIBLE I think they must be hurting for money because they are flat out not covering ****. I wanted to buy a Challenger but they hosed me on the transmission in my Charger so I couldn't bring myself to giving them my money.


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