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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I had some questions and I was hoping some of you could assist me.

Situation: stockpiling some parts for when I get home from overseas to upgrade the suspension on my 2013 gt. I used to work as a bulldozer undercarriage tech when I was younger, but that knowledge doesn't translate much to cars.

First off, I was hoping if someone can validate the quality of the parts I'm looking at. I'm buying a set of koni str-t shocks/struts, bmr sp009 lowering springs, and an adjustable panhard bar.

Question 2, will I need to adjust the camber after lowering?

Final question, does someone have some good guides on installing this because this is my first time messing with my own suspension.
 

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Are the koni yellows or orange? Yes the bmr lowering springs are a great choice I run them in my car. you will need an alignment when you lower the vehicle.

Also you might want to get the gt500 strut mounts and rotate the mount so the arrow is pointing towards the car or the cc plates to adjust the camber, the stock strut mounts will disintegrate once your remove the struts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are the koni yellows or orange? Yes the bmr lowering springs are a great choice I run them in my car. you will need an alignment when you lower the vehicle.

Also you might want to get the gt500 strut mounts and rotate the mount so the arrow is pointing towards the car or the cc plates to adjust the camber, the stock strut mounts will disintegrate once your remove the struts
The konis are orange. What's the difference?
 

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yellows are adjustable...they were my choice. I'm sure you'll be fine but there have been issues with the orange ones squeeking.

consider getting a rear lca relocation bracket. yes you will want an alignment after lowering it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another question. I know a lot of the bolts/nuts are supposedly marked one time use only by ford. Did anyone of you reuse the hardware, and if you didn't where is the best place to order the appropriate parts?
 

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I reused all my hardware when i pulled out my struts. just be carefull and you should be fine. im a tech at a ford dealer. if you look on fords workshop manual almost anything steering/suspension related it tells you to throw away the nuts/bolts, that they are a 1 time use only. if you wanted to get new hardware you would need to get from ford
 

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I'll try to add a little to what has already been said.
As far as "good guides", I would suggest internet searches including Youtube. There are a lot of installation videos kicking around. Here's a sample I found quickly.

Installing springs...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9m1O5Gr5OU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKSEuMnZV3U
This one replaces front spring from strut without using springs compression clamps by releasing top mount before removing assembly from car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo9sg-mTmXw

Here's one using gt500 strut mounts...(with 2005 - 2010 struts)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9LEV5CtMV8

Now as far as using the GT500 strut mounts, that's not a bad idea but you can't use 2011 - 2014 struts. You will have to use the 2005 - 2010 struts due to the different strut shafts required to be compatible with the GT500 mounts. Believe you can find more info on this subject on this forum as well as American Muscle write-up with the GT500 mounts. That last video addresses it as well.
 

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The konis are orange. What's the difference?


yellows are adjustable...they were my choice. I'm sure you'll be fine but there have been issues with the orange ones squeeking.

consider getting a rear lca relocation bracket. yes you will want an alignment after lowering it.

This. the oranges have been having issues for as long as I've been in this forum and it seems maybe once a month someone comments on them being messed up, go yellow they are worth it, i put them on and adjust them when ever I start auto X or the strip.
 

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So I'm just going to say that I ( as in my opinion) feel like your list is incomplete to properly lower your vehicle.

1. Lowering springs (obvs)
2. Shock and strut (stock ones aren't meant for the drop)
3. Gt500 strut mounts or cc plates ( stock ones are not reusable trust me!! )
4. LCA relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the control arm to be parallel with ground)
5. UCA adjustable (fixes pinion angle after drop)
6. Adjustable Panhand bar (fixes geometry of the rear end since it will move to one side)
7. A 6 pack of your favorite beer

The above I fee is a must for every drop for it to be properly and safely done.

Optional- LCA non adjustable (helps with wheel hop)

Now that being said I do understand everyone has different budgets it took me a year to be able to buy all that but it was worth it.


TL;DR - read it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now as far as using the GT500 strut mounts, that's not a bad idea but you can't use 2011 - 2014 struts. You will have to use the 2005 - 2010 struts due to the different strut shafts required to be compatible with the GT500 mounts. Believe you can find more info on this subject on this forum as well as American Muscle write-up with the GT500 mounts. That last video addresses it as well.
So if the gt500 mounts only work with 05-10 struts, and I'm already getting 11-14 struts, should I buy oem strut mounts to replace the ones I take off? I keep hearing the old ones will be near useless when I take it off.

So, my list of parts I'm getting is now at:
Koni shocks/struts
Bmr springs
Adjustable panhard bar
Lca relocation brackets
(Possibly) camber plates. I'm gonna read into those more
 

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The stock mounts don't always come apart, but they sometimes do. They can be put back together if they come apart, carefully. Or, rule out any possibilities of being stuck with a torn apart car by making sure you have new ones on hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

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I re-used my bolts...I would get aftermarket strut mounts (I used Steeda) but if you want my OEM mounts that had something over 20K on them I'll sell them cheap. But get upgraded ones. fwiw I took over a year to collect everything....the wait was worth it. Suspension was my fav upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I re-used my bolts...I would get aftermarket strut mounts (I used Steeda) but if you want my OEM mounts that had something over 20K on them I'll sell them cheap. But get upgraded ones. fwiw I took over a year to collect everything....the wait was worth it. Suspension was my fav upgrade
I think I'll try my luck with the mounts on it, and if they fall apart I'll order some replacement oem mounts. I've got a motorcycle I can ride until they come in if it comes down to it. Suspension is killing the bank right now, but I want to have as much of the parts as possible ordered so I can put them on when this deployment I'm on is over; a coming home present to myself. Hopefully next year I'll have a reenlistment bonus coming big enough to pay off the car. Then this $400 a month I'm paying on it now can go straight to parts.

I'm about to buy the shocks, struts, springs, and panhard bar all of a guy that's selling them for $450 together and he agreed to drop them off at my home since I obviously can't pick them up. Seemed like a good deal.
 

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I'm also stock piling parts for when I lower mine in April.

Votgland Springs 1.25" (all 4)
BMR Panhard (adjustable, poly bushing)
BMR LCA Relos
BMR LCA (Poly, adjustable)
BMR UCA (Poly, adjustable)
BMR UCA mount
BMR Pumpkin bushing (Poly)
J&M Caster Camber plates
Koni Yellows (Adjustable)

BMR is having a 15% OFF SALE for Thanksgiving......
I have discount codes for about every place that sells Mustang parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So the struts, shocks, springs, and adjustable panhard bar came in. I'm going to order some lca relocation brackets as well. Do you guys things that will be sufficient for a drop at the moment? The guy who I bought them off of said he didn't require any adjustment to the camber when he lowered, but I'm not so sure.
 

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some do...some don't. I bought some Steeda mounts that were used/not used for a good price. I believe in doing a job 1x as if you end up needing them it's a pain and the cost of another alignment.

keep your eyes open...black friday is coming up soon.
 

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One thing to keep in mind is that when you lower your Mustang with the stock 2 piece driveline you could change the pinion angle...this should be checked before your lower the car and after to make sure. Kind of the same with the distance from the wheel to body on both sides of the car before and after you lower the car. The adjustable panhard will take care of this and recenter everything...when doing any chassis work on a car...new or old...take measurements before and after...just a good rule of thumb.
I see a lot of people change the LCA's without doing anything to the UCA. If you've ever seen how much abuse these bushings get I believe you would want something other than the marshmallow rubber bushings especially the pumpkin bushing...on my 14 with less than 10k miles it was already starting to split and separate...so any adjustable UCA will work as long as you replace the pumpkin bushing with BMR's EN-001 poly bushing and the adjustable UCA will allow you to change the pinion angle as long as it's not too far off.
Right after I lowered my old 14 with Sportlines I still had wheel hop...I installed adjustable LCA's and after adjusting them my pinion angle was close to spec and the wheel hop was eliminated...I believe this could have accomplished with stock LCA's and an adjustable UCA and pumpkin bushing.
The question is when you start adjusting just one part of the suspension like LCA's and not the single UCA do you put the whole rear suspension in a bind???
 
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