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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, just joined the forum after not finding what I was hoping would answer my question :)

Got a 96 GT with a 96-98 Cobra swap in it hooked up to the 4R07W. Right now I have it hooked up to the stock ECU, MAF, & Injectors with a BBK cold air intake, the dreaded BBK throttle body, 249/249 449/449 .500 CompCam, MSD wires & Distributors, 1 step hotter Motorcraft plugs, Shorty headers, BBK H-pipe & Tailpipes, Thrush muffers (2.5in exhaust), BBK FPR & a 190lph FP. 190 thermostat.

1) The problems I'm having is that when I pull up to a stop light the damn thing doesn't want to idle down or kick out of gear maybe... it'll down shift but its almost like I'm on the gas and braking at the same time. Once I get down to 1100 or 1200 RPM it'll hang, and once I'm stopped it'll drop down to Idle.

2) When idling my car really likes to shimmy from left to right WOM WOM WOM biggity biggity biggity WOM WOM WOM... :wtf

...Tried replacing the the TPS and setting base idle.
...Checked out IAC, cleaned it and lubed it with a little WD-40.
...Checked o2's on my snap-on reader...

Heard somewhere it could be my throttle body or the dwell in my tune or something....

Looking for the cheapest fix, don't want to really tune it. Just want it running right for now... Thinking of getting a 96 MarkVIII Ecu, Maf, & Injectors... but then what about the nipples that I don't have on the butter fly... I have a breather on my IAC and the one on the MarkVIII doesn't... I guess I just need some reassurement and an educated answer...
 

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Hi guys, just joined the forum after not finding what I was hoping would answer my question :)

Got a 96 GT with a 96-98 Cobra swap in it hooked up to the 4R07W. Right now I have it hooked up to the stock ECU, MAF, & Injectors with a BBK cold air intake, the dreaded BBK throttle body, 249/249 449/449 .500 CompCam, MSD wires & Distributors, 1 step hotter Motorcraft plugs, Shorty headers, BBK H-pipe & Tailpipes, Thrush muffers (2.5in exhaust), BBK FPR & a 190lph FP. 190 thermostat.

1) The problems I'm having is that when I pull up to a stop light the damn thing doesn't want to idle down or kick out of gear maybe... it'll down shift but its almost like I'm on the gas and braking at the same time. Once I get down to 1100 or 1200 RPM it'll hang, and once I'm stopped it'll drop down to Idle.

2) When idling my car really likes to shimmy from left to right WOM WOM WOM biggity biggity biggity WOM WOM WOM... :wtf

...Tried replacing the the TPS and setting base idle.
...Checked out IAC, cleaned it and lubed it with a little WD-40.
...Checked o2's on my snap-on reader...

Heard somewhere it could be my throttle body or the dwell in my tune or something....

Looking for the cheapest fix, don't want to really tune it. Just want it running right for now... Thinking of getting a 96 MarkVIII Ecu, Maf, & Injectors... but then what about the nipples that I don't have on the butter fly... I have a breather on my IAC and the one on the MarkVIII doesn't... I guess I just need some reassurement and an educated answer...
On the number 1 problem,,kinda sounds like the TCC not unlocking right,,Is the 4r70w original with the car and the PCM..I know around that year they had two different TCC solenoids,,They look the same but the resistance is different
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Is this something I can do, or is internal? I only know of the locations for the VSS and neutral switch that had gone out on me

My OD light isn't flashing, and when I tap the brake on the highway i hear it come out of gear and clutch back in... Tranny has 170k on it and had fresh fluid/filter put in around 90-100k
 

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Is this something I can do, or is internal? I only know of the locations for the VSS and neutral switch that had gone out on me

My OD light isn't flashing, and when I tap the brake on the highway i hear it come out of gear and clutch back in... Tranny has 170k on it and had fresh fluid/filter put in around 90-100k
Its right inside the pan,,but if you feel it going in and out while driving,,then its prob not the problem..Is there any codes or can can get a scanner that will show a data stream
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Damn it... I can't remember if it was a DDX2 or X3... w/e... lol I'm throwing codes for something that I've purposely done... I think theres a tune in the car but talking to him about it is like pulling teeth... I deleted the egr and chucked all the sensors, Only throwing a code for the DPFE (high voltage) so I plugged it back in for now and am showing 1.07v sent back... and the EVR is out cause the hose dry rotted. The only vacuum line I have is for the FPR... still no change in how it drives anyway. The DPFE sensor is in with no vacuum, still felt it lean out a bit... was smelling gas fumes and seing fume cloud shadows next to my car at a light, gone now.

ONLY when I run a KOER, it gives me a KAM code, The rest of the codes above are naturally thrown by the ECU
 

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Damn it... I can't remember if it was a DDX2 or X3... w/e... lol I'm throwing codes for something that I've purposely done... I think theres a tune in the car but talking to him about it is like pulling teeth... I deleted the egr and chucked all the sensors, Only throwing a code for the DPFE (high voltage) so I plugged it back in for now and am showing 1.07v sent back... and the EVR is out cause the hose dry rotted. The only vacuum line I have is for the FPR... still no change in how it drives anyway. The DPFE sensor is in with no vacuum, still felt it lean out a bit... was smelling gas fumes and seing fume cloud shadows next to my car at a light, gone now.

ONLY when I run a KOER, it gives me a KAM code, The rest of the codes above are naturally thrown by the ECU
Can you check the fuel pressure,,the regulator could be bad
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah I checked the FPR but noticed no change with the vacuum line on OR off... I set it at 36lbs, I have to prime my car with the ignition before I turn it over, it will almost never start on the first try unless hot.

And there were multiple occasions this ONE day, where I was doing a few short trips and when I went to start it I wouldnt hear my fuel pump unless I banged on the inner fenderwell where the intake is... I could usually hear the relay in the CCRM, didnt that day.

When coming off a light, if I'm gentle on the gas theres a pause before the computer kicks in... only a hesitation... it gets confused and is like "oh yeah, time to go" unless I'm hot doggin in a parking lot or something, then it seems healthy. but if im soft on the car it runs like **** for especially when shifting under 2k
 

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I would say its something to do with the ccrm had it happen on a Lincoln mark 8 at my job. It wasnt giving out the right voltage to the hpfp cause the fp runs by 3 phases on that. Try to see if ur voltage is correct getting to the fuel pump. This is just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I think a partial problem is leakdown. it seams to me that the check valve in my pump is bad, as i have a fuel pump that whines, and after three times of priming, I can hear the pump pick up load. would a bad check valve in the fuel pump cause a bad idle? it doesnt sound like its firing on all 8 evenly at idle like it does under WOT... I have 355's in the diff... not sure if the a hypertech handleheld could compensate for that, i bought the car with it tuned with one of those.... thinking of replacing the fuel pump and installing a speed sensor gear...

tired of the womp womp womp idle it has until i give it gas, then it sounds normal... and it not upshifting under light load in a synchronized manner.

does the system at idle work the hell out of the check valve? and if the check valve went, is there not enough pressure at the injectors since the gas is pushing backwards on the impeller? or is that not possible since theres a return...

No vacuum leaks
New O2's
New IAC
New PCV's
New MAF

once in a while it'll throw a code for the purge canister, I guess its getting stuck... but it only turns on every now and then.
 

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If there is a return system then check to see if any restrictions are on the return side unless its a regulator. If it pumps 3 times then probably not enough fuel pressure ill read again the thread to refresh myself on the issue at hand
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Right now I have the regulator set for 36-39lbs, its hard to tell if the the pressure changes when I disconnect the vacuum since i don't have any water in the gauge im using to steady the needle... i checked it again the other day and i think its moving up about 5lbs atleast... even though i know its supposed to rise 10lb... when i prime the fuel pump, the regulator does not move at all until i hear the fuel pump pick up load... getting a spike of 12v at the fuel pump and steadies around 6v with koeo

i hear the ccrm click everytime, i hear the pump motor, no pressure for first few primes.

the last time i tried to adjust the fpr i saw something screwy... the pressure wouldnt change unless i really canked on the fpr in either direction... not a nice smooth climb or decrease in pressure as i turned the allen wrench

i have 19lb inj. with 24lb maf... tired of wasting gas until i have the issue corrected... thats why the pressure is set so high with vacuum on

when i rebuilt the car, i replaced the fpr and the fp at the same time, and has done it ever since i took the original engine out of the car.
 

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i was just answering another post when it hit me, u did a mark viii swap, mark viii have a fuel rail pressure sensor on them i believe, try unplugging the sensor and see if that helps it any at all, from what i read its a common problem but u are using a 4v motor, may or may not work but its a shot to take atleast to rule out a problem
 
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