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I recently had my Mustang motor rebuilt and I I am trying to get some information on how to properly break in the engine
 

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laroc88lxho said:
I recently had my Mustang motor rebuilt and I I am trying to get some information on how to properly break in the engine
I'm sure you'll get a hundred different answers from a hundred different people, but I've always been told 30 minutes idling to start, then run through 1 full tank of gas at nothing over 3k rpms, change your oil, and then run through another full tank of gas at the same rpms.
 

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Hears the way I do it and it works for me. Check all fluids. Start your motor, set timing, set fuel pressure, check water. Idle to operating temp check for leaks, then let it run 30 min.

Next day change oil and filter, start motor again check for leaks. Allow to warm up to operation temp. Check clutch adjustment and fuel level. Drive vehicle and allow engine to slow you down when ever possible. Drive easy.

Once you get a hundred miles change oil and filter. Drive the same till you feel comfortable. I give mine about a thousand miles before ripping it.

Now this is my opinion and it works for me. Yes I change oil a lot because it costs me $20 and 20 minutes. I have $6100 in my motor, so I have more time then money.
 

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I was told to start it up and let in idle to operating temp , 3 times. Change oil every 500 miles for 1,500 miles then I'm good !

I did everything except I've only drove car for 324 miles since May .
 

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Like previously stated you will get lots of different opinions.

The key is to cycle it through several heating and cooling cycles to help seat in the rings, seals and gaskets. Re-torque the head bolts (if needed, some gaskets do not require this, but a check is always good) and inspect for any leaks.


I try to drive mine easy for the first 500 miles, running the RPMs up and down the scale as is appropriate to the road conditions, but not over 3-4k or so. Then I change the oil and drive it like I'm going to from there on out changing the oil at 1k and 1.5k miles until I reach around 5k miles.
I use a plain old petroleum based oil for the first 3000-5000 miles then switch to synthetic if that is what I plan to use. This gives the rings time to seat in good for a better seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for your information please submit more ideas for me thank you the more I know the better my motor will run thanks to you
 

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Drive it like you stole it haha. I would just drive it 300 to 500 miles but slowly get on it during those miles. Not just hammer the gas but gradually get into it. Let all the gasket and rings seal an then get on it. Change oil and should be good. Some will say get on it right away and some will tell you to baby it.
 

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With the new mustangs. The computer won't allow you to get on it until 500 miles.
That's because more and more people know less and less about mechanical things. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well today I went to go pick it up and the fan bearing went bad right away the fan was not turning at all luckily I was still at the machine shop a new clutch bearing cost 85 dollars needed to be re installed other than that it sounded smoooth and it's a good things I did not let the engine the warm up no catastrophe just small things lack of attention to detail so I'm going to have to wait until Monday and then we'll see
 

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It's a roller cam, no cam break in needed. Let it warm to normal operating
temp, check for leaks and ****. Then drive it like you stole it....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lol I practically did steal it for 1200 dollars pretty soon I'm going to post some pictures I'm just getting over not getting my Mustang today it's pretty cool I found out they bored it out 30 over and also clutch had no back pressure like the sweet spot was basically at the floor and they lost my K&N air filter
 

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I like my clutch right at the top so all I have to do is bump and shift. Please say your running some type of an air filter for now instead of nothing.
 

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I've all ways done it this way. Good non synthetic oil , idle 30 min the recheck timing and settings, take it for a spin drive normal, after its been at running temp for a little while , hit it half throttle listen for pings and noises do it again. After the second time rail that throttle. Last be nice to it for a couple tanks of fuel change the oil after 5 to 600 miles put a good synthetic in and enjoy it .
 

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Yeah listen for odd noises, I wouldn't try to advance timing past 108 until you know everything is good to go. And please don't use old parts like Sparkplugs, C&R, Wires.
Unless they are virtually new. Eliminate any possible issues before you even make the first attempt at starting it up and taking it for a ride. I also run some non detergent
race oil for the first 2 oil changes, ussually at 500 & 1000 Miles. ANd if you want to
run it at a Higher RPM to test the cooling system and such run it down the interstate for 10 miles or so in 3rd or 4th gear depending what gears you have in it. I like to run mine around 3500-4000rpm with a few slow downs to 2nd and punching it until I am
near the posted limit.
 

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I.agree with mike stay away from.oils with detergent aka rotella t. It's great for older engines not new ones.
 

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I.agree with mike stay away from.oils with detergent aka rotella t. It's great for older engines not new ones.
You will have a very hard time finding any motor oil that does not contain detergents these days.


I have an air compressor that specifies non-detergent oil and I bought the last few quarts I could find years ago and I haven't ran across anymore yet to date.
 
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