351 swap into s197

Transmission update - Got the transmission on Friday. The trans is only availale as a kit, and includes a bell housing for mod motors, a motor plate, the shifter, transmission mount, and cross member (all assuming you're putting the trans into a S197 behind a mod motor).

I had to order a different bell housing - QuickTime #RM8031 - for the Windsor block. This bell housing is 15/16 inch shorter than the kit bell housing, so we have to make a spacer 15/16 thick to be put between the bell housing and the transmission. The plan is to take the bell housing to a waterjet shop and have them use the bell housing's transmission flange as a pattern. Don't know how much it's gonna cost.

Engine update - Machinist said it should be ready sometime this week. WOOT!

I've been driving the car lately without turning on the A/C to see if I could handle the 100-degree days here in Texas, and for the most part I can, but in traffic, it can get damn uncomfortable, so I've half convinced myself to put A/C in the car. I'm going to use a Fox-body compressor and make custom lines to tie it into the OEM system. I want to run the lines behind/under the radiator so that I don't end up with the butt-ugly Fox arrangement that crosses in front of and behind the air box. There is a question as to whether the compressor clutch can be properly controlled by the ECU, but I can always install a manual toggle switch or maybe even a Nitrous window switch if worse comes to worse.

So far, we haven't encountered anything that doesn't have what appears to be a viable workaround.

Swap started on 01 August:

Here's the engine, ready to go



Swap, day 01:


Took out the V6/auto



Empty engine bay





New K-member and steering rack installed



Engine lowered into car for the first time



Engine in place



Swap Day 02:

Okay, pics from day 02:

Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.



However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.





Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.



After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.



Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.



Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:



We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.

I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need.

Swap day 03:

Not much to report today. Buttoned up the transmission, re-installed the driver's seat, and found that the passenger side header does in fact clear the bell housing.

When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.

Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.



The transmission, installed.



The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.



The undercarriage.



The passenger-side header clears!



Swap day 04:

Added the fitting for the return line to the passenger side fuel hat.



I also dropped off the driveshaft, and it should be ready today.

We discovered that the radiator expansion tank won't fit where it was originally (the alternator pulley hits it), so we're going to relocate it to be behind the passenger side headlight. Eventually, I'll replace that ugly piece of crap with an aluminum tank.

Other cooling stuff - we're using Fox Mustang upper/lower radiator hoses. The upper hose is smaller than the opening on the radiator, but it can be adapted.

Swap day 06

Had to shave 5/16 inch off the transmission spacer, install three 0.187 throwout bearing spacers, and drill new holes in the transmission cross member, but we finally got the transmission in the car for good, and measured for the driveshaft.

Today, we're going to modify the passenger side header so it clears the bellhousing (it just barely touches when it's bolted up. Once that's resolved, we can weld the v-band collar to the collector and send the headers out for ceramic coating.

Once that's done, I think we're going to tackle the fuel system changes.


Swap day 07:

Drive shaft is in



Exhaust is done - headers go out for coating on Monday



Headers prevented "normal" use of dipstick, so we had to be the crap out of the tube



Top and bottom radiator hoses came from a Fox mustang





We moved the radiator a bit farther forward to resolve a clearance issue with the water pump and the fan. Fortunately, all we had to do was lossen the bolts that hold the top brackets down and pull the radiator back. This gave us about 1/4 inch of clearance.



Mounted carburetor and installed linkage. We're having a problem with the throttle cable popping off the throttle ball at full throttle. Gotta think on it some



We had to modify the air cleaner base so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall. This entailed cutting the carb hole out with more material on one end than the other, turning it around, and welding it back into place. Then, we made a "S"-shaped stud to accommodate the offset.





We have 5-7 working days before we get the headers back from the coater, and that will give us time to finish running the fuel line, mount the expansion tank, and do the electrical stuff. By the time the headers come back next week, we should be ready to start the engine for the first time.

Update - Day 08

Mounted the expansion tank in its new location.



Had to fabricate a bracket for it.



We also mounted the coil (also on a custom bracket) and the A/C compressor.



Finally, I built and installed the plug wires.



---------- Post added at 07:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 AM ----------

Swap day 09:

We got the tee for the lower radiator hose and installed it. I was amazed at the quality of the part. It's a billet piece with no welded-on stuff. Primo gear. All we have left on the cooling system is an overflow hose connection. That should be handled today.

The fuel lines have been plumbed. I paid half of the cost of a "Koul Tool" for the shop. This is a vice-like machine that allows you to put a push-lock hoses onto an AN fitting in less than 2 minutes (less than 30 seconds if you have air tools). Believe me when I say that you don't want to be without this tool if you're doing push-lock lines. We're still waiting on an aluminum plug for the fuel pressure regulator, and when we get it (should be today), the fuel system will be done. The shop guy wants to weld a couple of fittings for the fuel pressure gauge, and that should also be happening today.

I'm still waiting to hear if we're going to get the headers back today.

The schedule for the weekend includes:

- Finish up the cooling system
- Finish up the fuel system
- Finish up A/C compressor install
- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod
- Install the MSD box
- Weld O2 sensor bungs into x-pipe
- Install headers and x-pipe for the final time
- Install TPS sensor on carb
- Install temp gauge sensor
- Install oil pressure sensor
- Start electrical work

Another aspect of this swap that I haven't yet mentioned is the work of a tuner to turn a bunch of stuff off, as well as remapping other parameters to allow the ECU to function without blowing its little electronic mind. As I get details, I will write it down for the sanity of those who follow in my footsteps.

Swap day 10

Accomplished:

• Finish up A/C compressor install
• Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod
• Install headers

The lower radiator hose tee installed and connected to expansion tank:



The headers came back from the coating shop - $190 including tax.



The headers installed:





Swap day 11:

Update from yesterday:

- The exhaust is finished and permanently on the car

- Power harness is modified and wired up (including starter and alternator. We ended up with only 5 or 6 wires not directly related to power being needed, because most of the harness involved with the power steering rack (that is no longer present).

- MSD module and coil are wired up

- A/C clutch harness is run but not connected yet

- Transmission clutch has been bled and we have what appears to be proper throwout bearing operation

- Battery is back in the car

We now have enough wiring installed to start the car, but we didn't have the regulator plug to finish the fuel system (will have that Monday), and I'm having a bit of difficult finding a 3/8 NPT 90-degree fitting with a 3/8 hose bar on it for the PCV valve (all other solutions have been too tall). I'm gonna hit Lowe's and Home Depot today to see if they have anything.

We still have to wire up the transmission (speedo and reverse solenoid), and tackle the ECU harness. We've identified all of the connectors, and we have to tread carefully when removing stuff because we want to make sure that what we remove doesn't somehow have an impact on what we actually need to keep (throttle position, cylinder head temp, crank position).

BTW, I used the Ford Service Manual for a 2011 Mustang to identify the wires, and some of the wire colors changed for the 2012 model year.

In short, 99% of the nuts and bolts stuff is done, and we're down to the electrical stuff. Not bad - two weeks in and we're almost finished with what I would loosely call a significant swap. Sorry for no pictures today, but all of the wiring is pretty well hidden, and the rest of the engine bay still looks mostly like it did the day before.

So, to summarize (for the OP) the special stuff you have to do to perform this swap:

0) You need to use a T56 Magnum XL transmission because the OEM transmission does not have a removable bell housing, and it won't bolt up to a pushrod motor.

1) Since the transmission comes as a kit for a mod motor, you need to get a different bell housing (QuickTime #RM-8031)

2) You need to have an 11/16-inch spacer made to go between the bell housing and the transmission to put the input shaft at a n appropriate depth in the crankshaft. I paid $712 for my spacer (and then $85 to have it milled to the correct thickness), but since I now have the CAD drawing they created at the waterjet place, I can offer to have one made for anyone interested for the low, low price of $450. The CAD charges alone were $440 when I commissioned the work (and they gave me a break on it).

3) The throwout bearing will need three 0.187 spacers (from RAM) in order to produce an approriate stroke to release the clutch.

4) You should expect to have to relocate your radiator expansion tank.

5) On a 2011+, if you're changing from an auto to a manual trans, you can use brake/clutch pedal assembly from any S197, but you must use the 2011+ manual trans master cylinder reservoir.

6) You must replace your gas pedal with something that uses a cable. I used a fox body pedal mounted to an adapter bracket that itself bolts to the firewall using the OEM studs.

7) If you put A/C in the car, make sure you get the correct 351w front A/C bracket, and you should expect to have to elongate some of the holes in that bracket in order to get the A/C to bolt up correctly.

8) The Accufab #BT210 mid-length headers are a perfect fit. No modifications should be required with the excetion of adding v-band collars to clamp the headers to the X-pipe.

9) My existing aluminum driveshaft was shortened to 42.25 inches. Make sure they cut off the pinion end of the shaft (when they shorten it) so you can get rid of that rear slip joint.

10) If you use a Cobra oval air cleaner like mine, you will need to modify the base so it will clear the firewall.

11) If you have an OEM hood, you may need to replace it or cut a hole and add a scoop.

12) You must convert your fuel system to include a return line. I simply added a return line to my OEM passenger side fuel hat.

13) If you're going with a carbureted system, you MUST use a return type fuel pressure regularoe.

14) Exhaust - If you want to make it easy on yourself, you can utilize your exiusting x-pipe (as long as it's at least 2.5 inche pipe), and simply fabrivcate the pipe section between the header and the x-pipe. Don't forget to weld O2 sensor bungs into the adapter pipe so you can add a wide-band gauge as well as hook up to the dyno.

15) The OEM wiring harnesses will need modification, which mostly entails removing wiring you don't need, and adapting the wires you need to keep to connect to the late model accessories. Starter is a direct wire-up, but the alternator wire needs to be shortend appropriately, and a smaller ring connector used to connect it to the alternator.

16) If you want to keep your OEM tach, you must install a trigger wheel and a crank position sensor at the harmonic balancer, and connect the sensor to the appropriate wires in the harness.

17) We're using a fox temperature sensor in the intake to control the fan and A/C (see tune info below), as well as a throttle position sensor on the carb.

18) A custom tune is required to do things like remap the fuel OEM pressure regulator, remap the cylinder head temp sensor to use the signal from the fox body sensor. There may be other tune specific things that need to be done, but I don't know what they are yet.

Since the swap isn't done yet, this list might change.

It's ALIVE!!!

427w in 2012 Mustang - First Start - YouTube

Many thanks to Two Ten Performance for all their guidance and work. If you're in the San Antonio/Austin area, I highly recommend this shop.