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Swap day 11:

Update from yesterday:

- The exhaust is finished and permanently on the car

- Power harness is modified and wired up (including starter and alternator. We ended up with only 5 or 6 wires not directly related to power being needed, because most of the harness involved with the power steering rack (that is no longer present).

- MSD module and coil are wired up

- A/C clutch harness is run but not connected yet

- Transmission clutch has been bled and we have what appears to be proper throwout bearing operation

- Battery is back in the car

We now have enough wiring installed to start the car, but we didn't have the regulator plug to finish the fuel system (will have that Monday), and I'm having a bit of difficult finding a 3/8 NPT 90-degree fitting with a 3/8 hose bar on it for the PCV valve (all other solutions have been too tall). I'm gonna hit Lowe's and Home Depot today to see if they have anything.

We still have to wire up the transmission (speedo and reverse solenoid), and tackle the ECU harness. We've identified all of the connectors, and we have to tread carefully when removing stuff because we want to make sure that what we remove doesn't somehow have an impact on what we actually need to keep (throttle position, cylinder head temp, crank position).

BTW, I used the Ford Service Manual for a 2011 Mustang to identify the wires, and some of the wire colors changed for the 2012 model year.

In short, 99% of the nuts and bolts stuff is done, and we're down to the electrical stuff. Not bad - two weeks in and we're almost finished with what I would loosely call a significant swap. Sorry for no pictures today, but all of the wiring is pretty well hidden, and the rest of the engine bay still looks mostly like it did the day before.
 

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I loved these last few posts.
Silver lining - the UN hasn't contacted me about my engine swap causing Ebola to spread more quickly or more children to starve.

<sarcasm> That sure is a load off my mind.</sarcasm>

However, I think that once the swap is done, I'll be able to undo all of the positive environmental effects caused by 5000 Prius owners by simply turning my ignition key to "Accessory". :)
 

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I expect a video and an overall cost breakdown once you have completed this journey. Any plans for FI in the future?


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I expect a video and an overall cost breakdown once you have completed this journey. Any plans for FI in the future?
There *will* be video (hopefully tomorrow). Cost breakdown is kinda pointless as far as individual parts are concerned because all my stuff was new, and a lot of people are into the budget of things, not to mention that prices can change from day to day or from source to source. I can give rough estimates:

Engine - $12k
Transmission - $6k
Incidentals - $3k
Shop Labor - $4k
 

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:thumb::thumb: DANG!!
 

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So, to summarize (for the OP) the special stuff you have to do to perform this swap:

0) You need to use a T56 Magnum XL transmission because the OEM transmission does not have a removable bell housing, and it won't bolt up to a pushrod motor.

1) Since the transmission comes as a kit for a mod motor, you need to get a different bell housing (QuickTime #RM-8031)

2) You need to have an 11/16-inch spacer made to go between the bell housing and the transmission to put the input shaft at a n appropriate depth in the crankshaft. I paid $712 for my spacer (and then $85 to have it milled to the correct thickness), but since I now have the CAD drawing they created at the waterjet place, I can offer to have one made for anyone interested for the low, low price of $450. The CAD charges alone were $440 when I commissioned the work (and they gave me a break on it).

3) The throwout bearing will need three 0.187 spacers (from RAM) in order to produce an approriate stroke to release the clutch.

4) You should expect to have to relocate your radiator expansion tank.

5) On a 2011+, if you're changing from an auto to a manual trans, you can use brake/clutch pedal assembly from any S197, but you must use the 2011+ manual trans master cylinder reservoir.

6) You must replace your gas pedal with something that uses a cable. I used a fox body pedal mounted to an adapter bracket that itself bolts to the firewall using the OEM studs.

7) If you put A/C in the car, make sure you get the correct 351w front A/C bracket, and you should expect to have to elongate some of the holes in that bracket in order to get the A/C to bolt up correctly.

8) The Accufab #BT210 mid-length headers are a perfect fit. No modifications should be required with the excetion of adding v-band collars to clamp the headers to the X-pipe.

9) My existing aluminum driveshaft was shortened to 42.25 inches. Make sure they cut off the pinion end of the shaft (when they shorten it) so you can get rid of that rear slip joint.

10) If you use a Cobra oval air cleaner like mine, you will need to modify the base so it will clear the firewall.

11) If you have an OEM hood, you may need to replace it or cut a hole and add a scoop.

12) You must convert your fuel system to include a return line. I simply added a return line to my OEM passenger side fuel hat.

13) If you're going with a carbureted system, you MUST use a return type fuel pressure regularoe.

14) Exhaust - If you want to make it easy on yourself, you can utilize your exiusting x-pipe (as long as it's at least 2.5 inche pipe), and simply fabrivcate the pipe section between the header and the x-pipe. Don't forget to weld O2 sensor bungs into the adapter pipe so you can add a wide-band gauge as well as hook up to the dyno.

15) The OEM wiring harnesses will need modification, which mostly entails removing wiring you don't need, and adapting the wires you need to keep to connect to the late model accessories. Starter is a direct wire-up, but the alternator wire needs to be shortend appropriately, and a smaller ring connector used to connect it to the alternator.

16) If you want to keep your OEM tach, you must install a trigger wheel and a crank position sensor at the harmonic balancer, and connect the sensor to the appropriate wires in the harness.

17) We're using a fox temperature sensor in the intake to control the fan and A/C (see tune info below), as well as a throttle position sensor on the carb.

18) A custom tune is required to do things like remap the fuel OEM pressure regulator, remap the cylinder head temp sensor to use the signal from the fox body sensor. There may be other tune specific things that need to be done, but I don't know what they are yet.

Since the swap isn't done yet, this list might change.
 

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Well just saw this. Let's set up a run once you get it tuned. I wont use the bottle just motor

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Are you in SA? It ain't really a drag racer (suspension and tires are setup for road events), but I think I can borrow big-n-littles. :)
 

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Are you in SA? It ain't really a drag racer (suspension and tires are setup for road events), but I think I can borrow big-n-littles. :)
New braunfels. 30-50 roll

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---------- Post added at 10:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 AM ----------

That should be a real nice road race car

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We're planning on buttoning up the electrical today, and fixing a water pump issue. After that, we're gonna try to make the car louder.
 

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Test Drive! We drove it about 10 miles yesterday evening (no hood or bumper cover). We should be completely done by Friday, and we're going to a car meet to celebrate. When the car is completely back together, I'll post another video or two or three.
 
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