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Discussion Starter #1
So I blew a head gasket and I decided to go with gt40p heads to complete a gt40 swap on my 95 5.0
Idk what's wrong, it has a bad loss of power, rpms bounce at 4k some times. Haven't tried to fix anything yet so lmk what you guys think.


This car is a pain in my ass
 

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It could be so many things... You might not have a sensor hooked up right, you might have the distributor off, you might have installed the cam a tooth off you could have a vac leak somewhere you might have the firing order mixed up on the wires...

Going to have to go back over it completely and see what might be wrong.

edit: still stock cam right? If not then that might be your problem right there.

You did swap out the valvesprings on the P heads correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i just went to pickn pull and took the complete head setup from a 97+ 5.0 explorer and put it on my block, all I used from my mustang was the pushrods
 

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Pushrod length has to be checked when changing the heads

Hopefully this is not your issue


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Discussion Starter #5
Forgot to plug in a spark plug lol,
Also when I full throttle it the rpms rise and sometimes I don't accelerate as much. I Just did a clutch job, any ideas? Maybe my gears are shot in my rear end or maybe tranny issues?
 

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Its always something stupid lol. If the motor is behaving the same all the time when you push the clutch and sometimes the car does not take off like it should... yeah you could have a glazed flywheel.

Did you install a new flywheel too when you did the clutch?
 

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Clucth is probably slipping some. So you installed a new clutch and flywheel....what about the cable, quadrant & adjuster?


Also the valve springs on the GT40 are notoriously weak and very light on pressure so expect to get valve float. http://www.fiveohinfo.com/performance/gt40-gt40p.html
I would also recommend measuring the pushrods like stated.


Check your timing and make sure it is good.


What spark plugs are you using?
 

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I would run a koeo koer test to verify whether any codes are present.The cel doesn't have to be lit in order for codes to be present.You don't need a scanner either,follow the steps in the link below.If any codes are present,it will help you diagnose the cause as possibly sensor,EEC-IV,wiring,etc but if no codes are present that will most likely indicate the cause as a mechanical one instead.
DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure

---------- Post added at 09:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 PM ----------

I would run a koeo koer test to verify whether any codes are present.The cel doesn't have to be lit in order for codes to be present.You don't need a scanner either,follow the steps in the link below.If any codes are present,it will help you diagnose the cause as possibly sensor,EEC-IV,wiring,etc but if no codes are present that will most likely indicate the cause as a mechanical one instead.
DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure
 
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