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Can't. Mine stays on because I have a wheel speed sensor gone bad. I just don't know which one. And ford made each one different. That sucks so you can't get one and move it around till you find the bad one
 

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Abs light stays on how do i remove this
At the risk of sounding facetious, you need to get the ABS system repaired.

Stop by any brake shop and ask that they read the ABS trouble codes, ask what the codes are and write them down--they make want to give you a "free quote"; let them do that, smile sweetly and leave, The quote should list what the problem(s) are.

Or as it happens Amazon has an ABS code reader that will work with our cars, at a special closeout price because it has been discontinued by Actron, $60...
 

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At the risk of sounding facetious, you need to get the ABS system repaired.

Stop by any brake shop and ask that they read the ABS trouble codes, ask what the codes are and write them down--they make want to give you a "free quote"; let them do that, smile sweetly and leave, The quote should list what the problem(s) are.

Or as it happens Amazon has an ABS code reader that will work with our cars, at a special closeout price because it has been discontinued by Actron, $60...
Hey cliffy do u know a lot a out the abs system I put a new spider traxs diff and ford racing 410 gears and 31 spline moser axels now the abs rings are not under the abs sensors the axels are to long and now I have no traction control would that make the traction control not work and the abs light is on on the dash to I've looked and looked it seems like I'm the only one who has this problem thanks for any advise u could give me
 

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Hey cliffy do u know a lot a out the abs system I put a new spider traxs diff and ford racing 410 gears and 31 spline moser axels now the abs rings are not under the abs sensors the axels are to long and now I have no traction control would that make the traction control not work and the abs light is on on the dash to I've looked and looked it seems like I'm the only one who has this problem thanks for any advise u could give me
That would do it. Did the sensors get pushed inward when the old axles were removed? I found that on once of the cars I worked on.

You can see here that the ABS sensor's plastic housing got pushed inward and right off the brass mounting insert:


To the extent that it no longer overlapped the reluctor ring.


On the other side the sensor was pushed inward less, but was canted and touching the reluctor:


Fortunately in this situation both sensors were undamaged and could be just pushed back onto the brass inserts...
 

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That would do it. Did the sensors get pushed inward when the old axles were removed? I found that on once of the cars I worked on.

You can see here that the ABS sensor's plastic housing got pushed inward and right off the brass mounting insert:

To the extent that it no longer overlapped the reluctor ring.

On the other side the sensor was pushed inward less, but was canted and touching the reluctor:

Fortunately in this situation both sensors were undamaged and could be just pushed back onto the brass inserts...
That is exactly what mine looks like but the sensors is all the way in but its that far away and the axel thins out be for it hits where the seal and bearing are but i think there's enough room to get the ring under the sensor but does the ring have to be seated all the way at the end or can I pull it in to get it under the sensor or maybe a wider abs ring or is there a way to safely shorten the axle thanks a lot for the help I really appreciate it no one seems to had any experience with this problem
 

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For me, my abs module failed and i had to swap it out or get it repaired. It's a common failure and you can swap the electric side of the module without disconnecting the brake lines.
 

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That is exactly what mine looks like but the sensors is all the way in but its that far away and the axel thins out be for it hits where the seal and bearing are but i think there's enough room to get the ring under the sensor but does the ring have to be seated all the way at the end or can I pull it in to get it under the sensor or maybe a wider abs ring or is there a way to safely shorten the axle thanks a lot for the help I really appreciate it no one seems to had any experience with this problem
Hey, I am in the final stages of a complete upgrade on my rear end, and used summit racing 31 spline axels. My sensors aligned exactly as you have described yours, basically the tip of the sensor is just a hair off of the ring. Did you find a fix for it or are you living with it?

I have about an hour and a half of work left to do at this point before I go test it out. Any info would be very helpful. Thanks!!
 

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Hey, I am in the final stages of a complete upgrade on my rear end, and used summit racing 31 spline axels. My sensors aligned exactly as you have described yours, basically the tip of the sensor is just a hair off of the ring. Did you find a fix for it or are you living with it?

I have about an hour and a half of work left to do at this point before I go test it out. Any info would be very helpful. Thanks!!
This is not a solution, however most people running 31-spline axles don't run ABS at all.


The sensor needs to overlap the reluctor ring by at least 3/16"--you need to contact Summit or the axle maker and ask them?
 

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They are summit. I can give them a call tomorrow. I got the car back together and the symptoms are exactly as the others have described.
 

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Cliffy, is it normal to have a slight whine when you install new gears/bearings/differential? Mine isn't horrible but it is still noticeable. If so will it go away as everything breaks in?
 

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Cliffy, is it normal to have a slight whine when you install new gears/bearings/differential? Mine isn't horrible but it is still noticeable. If so will it go away as everything breaks in?
Depends on how slight, in what gear at what speeds and loads?

One thing to keep in mind is that the lower the final drive gears (higher mumerically) the faster the drive shaft spins for a given road speed. For example, in 5th gear (w/ an '02+ T3650) with 3.27s at 70 MPH the drive shaft spins 2900 RPM or so. With 4.10 it would be turning 3900 RPM or so...
 

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Depends on how slight, in what gear at what speeds and loads?

One thing to keep in mind is that the lower the final drive gears (higher mumerically) the faster the drive shaft spins for a given road speed. For example, in 5th gear (w/ an '02+ T3650) with 3.27s at 70 MPH the drive shaft spins 2900 RPM or so. With 4.10 it would be turning 3900 RPM or so...
Mine is an 03 GT with the TR3650 and 3.73 gears. It seems to be speed sensitive independent of which gear I am in which leads me to believe that it is in the rear end as opposed to the transmission. This same sound is why I totally rebuilt my rear end, only it was constant and horrible. Now it is a low whine above 30 mph and seems to go away at some speeds.

The install kit I purchased from AM had a brand of bearings I have never heard of. I am seriously thinking of purchasing new carrier bearings and going back in and swapping them out and rechecking my backlash and gear pattern while I am in there. I have slightly over 500 miles on the build now.
 
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