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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
About 2 weeks ago i was on the highway i got a funky smell when i got off i seen the rubber boot was melting on the alternator took off the boot nothings happened since.. 2 nights ago my battery was dying on my way home i was trying to revv it up and it wouldn't respond it would just jerk.. As soon as it was about to die all my lights came on an battery gauge went back to normal but my driver side window wont go up. This happened once before.. My car was making a weird squeaking noise i had no clue what it was my local shop said it was the alternator they changed it 4 times cause it didn't go away and then my window wouldn't go up "driver side" last time they gave it back my window went up. My car came with the mach 1000 sound system. Is it possible when they swapped my perfectly fine alternator they put a lower amp one in?


Let me add the squeaking sound was not my alternator! It was the water pump which i swapped cause they couldn't figure it out.
 

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I would check (and likely replace) the crimped on connector at the generator output--if it melted is obviously overheated, one potential and somewhat common cause of that is a crimp-on connector that has come loose from corrosion or whatever and is no longer able to carry the full output of the generator with burning up.

Has "become resistive" is the usual term applied to failed high-current connections as described above...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My window went up when i started my car but i was just driving and now the battery is dying again also in another note my rpms are hangin around 2k at stop and dont go down any suggestions ? I got a new MAF cleaned filter tb and the idle valve ohh and also i ran sea foam and changed my fuel filter my CEL is on and says my banks are stuck lean
 

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I relocated where it connects to the back of the alt
You cannot "relocate" it, it connects where it connects?

Did you replace the eye terminal at the cable end?

You need to measure the battery voltage while cranking the engine (at the battery terminal connectors, and then the battery posts--it should be 10.5V or better). Then monitor the system voltage (at the battery terminal connectors, NOT the posts) while the engine is running and with various loads.

This will reveal this condition of the generator and battery...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You cannot "relocate" it, it connects where it connects?

Did you replace the eye terminal at the cable end?

You need to measure the battery voltage while cranking the engine (at the battery terminal connectors, and then the battery posts--it should be 10.5V or better). Then monitor the system voltage (at the battery terminal connectors, NOT the posts) while the engine is running and with various loads.

This will reveal this condition of the generator and battery...
I just moved it from the little red connecter and put it to where the connecter was connected too.
Im gonna test the volts while cracking tomorrow rite after work. Any idea with the rpm's hanging up at 2k at lights?
 

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I just moved it from the little red connecter and put it to where the connecter was connected too.
I don't know what that means, if you connected the small gauge wire to the generator output wire then it will not work correctly--can you get a clear photo of what is connected where?
Im gonna test the volts while cracking tomorrow rite after work. Any idea with the rpm's hanging up at 2k at lights?
99.44% of idle problems are IAC related, it could be stuck/sticking--if it has more than 85k miles on it then it's probably shot; or close to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't know what that means, if you connected the small gauge wire to the generator output wire then it will not work correctly--can you get a clear photo of what is connected where?

99.44% of idle problems are IAC related, it could be stuck/sticking--if it has more than 85k miles on it then it's probably shot; or close to it...
Can i run it how i have it connected ?

I don't have 85k yet but ill give it a try thanks cliff
 

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It appears that the heat insulator tower--the reddish plastic extension for the output connection (see the photo of mine below)--has been removed? This is an essential part as it isolates the crimped terminal on the cable from the heat of the generator--it should be replaced, though I have never seen them available separately.

Also, if the crimped terminal is not shiny clean (again see the photo) then it needs to be replaced; and the cable clipped back to where to copper is not heat damaged. This connection carries 110+ Amps DC, at 15.5 V max--that is 1700 Watts, 200 to 300 more than a typical electric space heater.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It appears that the heat insulator tower--the reddish plastic extension for the output connection (see the photo of mine below)--has been removed? This is an essential part as it isolates the crimped terminal on the cable from the heat of the generator--it should be replaced, though I have never seen them available separately.

Also, if the crimped terminal is not shiny clean (again see the photo) then it needs to be replaced; and the cable clipped back to where to copper is not heat damaged. This connection carries 110+ Amps DC, at 15.5 V max--that is 1700 Watts, 200 to 300 more than a typical electric space heater.
I removed the red piece because for some reason it started to burn. And i can check when i get home but i do nit think that the connecter is shiny
 

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I removed the red piece because for some reason it started to burn. And i can check when i get home but i do nit think that the connecter is shiny
Most likely it started to burn because the cable end terminal became loose/corroded as I explained above. This makes the cable/terminal connection "resistive" causing it to heat up just like an electric space heater or a toaster--this needs to be corrected before you can even diagnose any other possible problems, in fact IT may be the problem.

The terminal end and cable have to be bright, clean and tight--same way I like my women...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Most likely it started to burn because the cable end terminal became loose/corroded as I explained above. This makes the cable/terminal connection "resistive" causing it to heat up just like an electric space heater or a toaster--this needs to be corrected before you can even diagnose any other possible problems, in fact IT may be the problem.

The terminal end and cable have to be bright, clean and tight--same way I like my women...
Hahaa alright man, thanks for everything im gonna give it a go after work and come back to the thread
 
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