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I'ved used RedLine, Royal Purple, and Penzoil ultra platinum. Before I used any of those oils and not knowing what my car already had in the engine, I used motorcraft semi synthetic. Then I used RedLine and I could tell a difference. After RedLine, I used RP and the Penzoil and I could tell a difference with those as well. The car ran smoother, felt like it didn't have to work as hard to get up to speed etc.

I also use Royal Purple oil filters. So my two cents are, Penzoil ultra platinum and RP oil filter. But you can't go wrong with RP, RL, or even AMSoil.
 

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Wal Mart Supertech. $17.99 for 5 quart jug. Napa Gold filter. You will never have oil problems. People always overthink oil, you have the whole bobistheoilguy forum for what? 99% of people do not need to worry about their oil besides following the service intervals and not using Fram death cans.
 

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Considering Fram sells about 10x the number of filters of everyone else and millions of folks use them without incident i would not call them "death cans". You can get better filters but Fram also makes better that are highly regarded.

I don't use them simply because when I go to Wally World for my oil and filters they are more expensive than Mopar, Motorcraft and Super Tech that are sold there too.

Dave
 

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I'ved used RedLine, Royal Purple, and Penzoil ultra platinum. Before I used any of those oils and not knowing what my car already had in the engine, I used motorcraft semi synthetic. Then I used RedLine and I could tell a difference. After RedLine, I used RP and the Penzoil and I could tell a difference with those as well. The car ran smoother, felt like it didn't have to work as hard to get up to speed etc.

I also use Royal Purple oil filters. So my two cents are, Penzoil ultra platinum and RP oil filter. But you can't go wrong with RP, RL, or even AMSoil.
The only reason your car picked up speed faster was because your wallet was so much lighter :hide: :whistling:
The thing I don't understand is people going to the store and whatever oil is the cheapest or on sale is the one they buy no matter what is in the engine. I must be old school because I was told many moons ago to use the oil you plan on using till you sell the vehicle. Since oil manufacturers use different bases and additives I will stay with my Valvoline and Motorcraft Filter :cool:
 

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The only reason your car picked up speed faster was because your wallet was so much lighter :hide: :whistling:
The thing I don't understand is people going to the store and whatever oil is the cheapest or on sale is the one they buy no matter what is in the engine. I must be old school because I was told many moons ago to use the oil you plan on using till you sell the vehicle. Since oil manufacturers use different bases and additives I will stay with my Valvoline and Motorcraft Filter :cool:
How dare you Siber..... The accuracy of the "butt dyno" is indisputable! :lol:

Oil is oil. It all mixes together and the engine doesn't know the difference.
It is akin to mixing two different brands of milk together. They may be in different cartons, but nevertheless, they both are the product of a cow, and taste the same.
 

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How dare you Siber..... The accuracy of the "butt dyno" is indisputable! :lol:

Oil is oil. It all mixes together and the engine doesn't know the difference.
It is akin to mixing two different brands of milk together. They may be in different cartons, but nevertheless, they both are the product of a cow, and taste the same.
My 2003 F150 could not run Mobil 1, it used about a quart every 500 miles which made running it was an extra 5 quarts in a 3000 mile oil change, put Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic it and then Full Synthetic Valvoline and didn't use a drop. Have a friend with an M3 that is the same way. Not saying it is bad but I won't run it in anything including my Lawn Mower because of that. My Mack that I used to drive would use 1 Gallon every 5000 miles running 15w40 Rotella made by Shell, switched over to Delo 400 and it was using a gallon every 2000 miles, back to Rotella and 5000 miles. The base oil and all the extras added into oil do make a difference.
As for Milk, I only drink Mayfield, there is a difference in the taste of milk also :whistling:
But Dyno lies also, my F150 seems so much slower than my Mustang but it will actually beat a V6 Mustang up to 85 MPH getting on the Freeway in Texas (80 MPH was the Speed Limit) :hide:
 

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My 2003 F150 could not run Mobil 1, it used about a quart every 500 miles which made running it was an extra 5 quarts in a 3000 mile oil change, put Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic it and then Full Synthetic Valvoline and didn't use a drop. Have a friend with an M3 that is the same way. Not saying it is bad but I won't run it in anything including my Lawn Mower because of that. My Mack that I used to drive would use 1 Gallon every 5000 miles running 15w40 Rotella made by Shell, switched over to Delo 400 and it was using a gallon every 2000 miles, back to Rotella and 5000 miles. The base oil and all the extras added into oil do make a difference.
As for Milk, I only drink Mayfield, there is a difference in the taste of milk also :whistling:
But Dyno lies also, my F150 seems so much slower than my Mustang but it will actually beat a V6 Mustang up to 85 MPH getting on the Freeway in Texas (80 MPH was the Speed Limit) :hide:
Trucks always seem slower because you are typically seated much higher than in a car.

My experience is the same as yours regarding Mobil 1 motor oil. Increased consumption, and it will leak out of high mileage engines.
Different oil brands do have different characteristics. I'm saying that the engine doesn't care if you switch brands. The oil leftover inside of the crankcase, during an oil change, gets mixed with the new oil, and there is not enough of it in there to make much of a difference. It just makes sense to continue using a brand that you have been using with good results.

Can you imagine using Royal Purple in that Mack truck? What would that be? About $600 for just the oil for a oil change? Not including the filter and top-offs! 10-12 times a year?
I'll bet not many owners would go for that!
And it is not cheap to do a in-frame rebuild on a big diesel engine! $15-20k!
Yet, it would be cost-prohibitive to use a "Champagne" oil in a case like that.

I hear that Mayfield Dairy has some of the best milk cows in the business....
 

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Can you imagine using Royal Purple in that Mack truck? What would that be? About $600 for just the oil for a oil change? Not including the filter and top-offs! 10-12 times a year?
I'll bet not many owners would go for that!
And it is not cheap to do a in-frame rebuild on a big diesel engine! $15-20k!
Yet, it would be cost-prohibitive to use a "Champagne" oil in a case like that.

I hear that Mayfield Dairy has some of the best milk cows in the business....
The last inframe that was done was because an injector plugged up, we started running Amsoil injector cleaner through all of them, that was when they figured 30 bucks for the 64 OZ bottle was cheaper than a motor.
Royal Purple is who made the Oil for the Air end on our 825 CFM air compressor and there are companies that actually do run RP, it is about $30 a gallon when you get it by the 55 gallon drum so only $270 for RP oil plus the Filters and go 20-25,000 miles on an oil change.
 
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