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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i have a 2000 v6 stang i was just curious the best route to go, 1800 to blow current mods are headers and h back, 373s w/ t-lock. i want all motor i have a little idea of route but would like other opinions. thank you much :p:

thinking pullies, cai, cam w/ rr, diablo, clutch(needed), 70mm tb, maby short shifter......... does a fly wheel really help that much??///
 

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15.3 Second V8 Killer Yo
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Well, I could use some Hans Race Craft sub frames, some Nitto DRs and street radials, um...I could prolly fill out the rest of your cash if you give me a bit. :D

Not sure about v6 mods, but, since you have 1800 to blow...then why not share the weath. :D
 

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cjd10 said:
i have a 2000 v6 stang i was just curious the best route to go, 1800 to blow current mods are headers and h back, 373s w/ t-lock. i want all motor i have a little idea of route but would like other opinions. thank you much :p:

thinking pullies, cai, cam w/ rr, diablo, clutch(needed), 70mm tb, maby short shifter......... does a fly wheel really help that much??///
You're on the right track:

Cold Air Intake (Get the bling versions, look better)

Clutch (Stage II minimum for longevity)

Instead of getting a 3.73 gears **and** a track lock for your 7.5 rear, and then paying installation, you can find a good 8.8 rear for about the same price on eBay. I paid $400 new for my 8.8. Sure, you may end up with 3.27 gears, but I made upgrade mistakes in the past that weren't buildable on other upgrades. Ended up selling off my old 7.5 (with 3.73 gears and track-loc) for about $200 resale...

70mm TB, don't waste your money. I'm pushing in excess of 420hp (w/o N20) and I'm using the stock TB with only the Half-Shaft mod.

Pullies - good choice

Short Shifter - Steeda Tri-Ax or the 5.0 Pro Shifter. I use the 5.0 Pro Shifter, have used the Tri-Ax, prefer the Pro Shifter.

Headers - You mention you have them, are the Long Tubes?

Nitrous - Squeeze the bottle. A 50-90 shot would be the kicker you'd have fun with. Use a wet system for installation ease. Limit your shot, and yhou won't have any problems. Your engine will handle it just fine.

Flywheel - I've used aluminum and steel ones, didn't notice a bit a of difference between either except the price. Waste of $$ IMHO.

Chip - Not really needed for your mods until you actually change your rear gears to keep the speedo correct. Performance wise, I did it early on and the only thing it did was decrease the performance of my wallet and make me have to run expensive premium fuel

Ignition Box, Spark Plugs and Wires - Stay stock, don't waste $$
 

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I agree with michael.konor on the list of mods. However unless you are going after mad crazy HP and you want to run slicks I would stay with the 7.5 and just put gears and a track lock in it unless you find a really good deal on a 8.8 rearend. Problem is that you dont know what you are getting with a used rear end and the Tlock could already be toast and the gears could be worn do to lack of scheduled maintenance and gear lube change.
 

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Just a matter of considering future upgrades. Overall, it only ended up costing me about $100 more to get an 8.8 setup than buying the stuff to setup a 7.5".

DD brings up a good point, I did find a good deal on a new 8.8 for a 99+ 8.8 rearend. Pre-99 rears are shorter and even though it'll work (especially if you swap your axles) stick with newer ones.

3.73 is a good ratio. I'm swapping out my 4.10's for 3.73's next week.
 

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Danger Dude said:
Problem is that you dont know what you are getting with a used rear end and the Tlock could already be toast and the gears could be worn do to lack of scheduled maintenance and gear lube change.
How often should you have the gear lube changed?
 

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I change mine every year, but I'm brutal on the drivetrain...
 

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With a tlok every 12 to 18 months. I changed mine exactly 14 months ago and just the other day as I was taken a sharp slow turn into a bank teller line I heard a slight moan from the rear end. Most people would not notice it but I am very keen on hearing changes in my car. Just remember to add friction modifier every time you change the rear end lube. If you have someone else do it make go by Ford and pick some up it is cheap then take it with you to give to the shop so they put it in !!!
 

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greenpony02 said:
how do you change it?
open the diff cover and let it drain out, then put oil in the fill plug on the top of the case.



I know you said you wanna go all motor, but nitrous is THE best bang for your buck. PERIOD. Where else can you get 100rwhp for $400? All those things you listed (cai, pulleys, cam, heads, etc) wont even get you 100rwhp... not even close. And it will cost 4x what nitrous costs.

If your heart is truely set on N/A, then get a new cam and new heads and roller rockers, a clutch, resurface the flywheel, and get it dynotuned. Should add about 40rwhp for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
sorry guys miss understanding i already have the tlok and 373's.. the headers are short tube wanted long but got a great deal. any suggestions from where to get a clutch??
 

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cjd10 said:
im considering nos but how much is a truly safe shot?? :confused:
Wet shot 50-75 shot safe without tune though at 75 I would recommend a tune, 100 shot with chip or dyno tuning

Dry shot I would tune no matter what
 

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cjd10 said:
sorry guys miss understanding i already have the tlok and 373's.. the headers are short tube wanted long but got a great deal. any suggestions from where to get a clutch??
Directly from SPEC is easy. www.specclutch.com

I'm running a SPEC Stage III and their billet steel flywheel.
 

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isnt it better for splitport cars to get dry nitrous kits :confused:
becausethe wet kits can cause puddles in the manifold and cause some damage
 

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no. dry kits are worse on split port because of the returnless fuel system
 
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