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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys i have a problem with my brakes on my 67 coupe. I'm back to work on my classic and I'm bleeding the brakes but I can't... I mean I know how and I know I'm doing it right but I still have no pedal. I bled the master cylinder in car and then went around and bled the brakes but the pedal never gets heavy I have all new hoses and the lines are all good and there's no leaks anywhere but after I pump up the pedal to build pressure I let my foot off the pedal not 10 seconds and I suddenly have no pressure anymore. Do I have a leak inside the master cylinder? Or where is the pressure going?


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One bowl or double bowl MC?
Your story really sounds like a MC that's not well bleeded, that pushes only air in your lines...
:-/
 

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And there's nothing magic, it's easy to detect a leak on the lines and wheel cylinders (or calipers) so the only part that can be tricky is the MC.
Take it out and bench bleed it again: It will save your time. Otherwise you are going to turn crazy!
:)
 

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Hey guys i have a problem with my brakes on my 67 coupe. I'm back to work on my classic and I'm bleeding the brakes but I can't... I mean I know how and I know I'm doing it right but I still have no pedal. I bled the master cylinder in car and then went around and bled the brakes but the pedal never gets heavy I have all new hoses and the lines are all good and there's no leaks anywhere but after I pump up the pedal to build pressure I let my foot off the pedal not 10 seconds and I suddenly have no pressure anymore. Do I have a leak inside the master cylinder? Or where is the pressure going?
To answer your question, if you pump up the pedal and have brakes yet release the pedal and then have non...you still have air in the system. If you had a leak in the system you would never be able to pump the brakes up as they would leak out under pressure.


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I'm not following what you said outlined in red. I assume you have one other person helping you...the person that is pumping up the pedal and you are underneath bleeding the brakes....right?
You should start bleeding the brake that is on the passenger side at the rear, then the drivers side rear, then the passenger side front and last the drivers side front.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was doing it that way but I soon as I let the system relax (take my foot off the pedal) then I press on the pedal again and it goes all the way to floor with just the weight of my foot...


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Discussion Starter #8
I was also told that my push rod was not long enough and that I should adjust it to make it longer but there is no way to adjust it its a fixed rod


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Do you have power brakes?
Do you lose any brake fluid when you are trying to bleed the brakes...either from the front or rear reservoir?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's Manual brakes and yes I keep topping it off because I keep getting air in the line. But there's no leaks anywhere in the system...


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It sounds like you've got a ton of air in the entire system and it may take sometime to get it out. After building a 1940 Ford we spent almost 3 hours getting most of the air out...and then finally ended up buying a pressure bleeder like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/pressure-bleeding-your-brakes.html...we actually bought it from Summit Racing because we usually get one day shipping from their AZ warehouse...and after using it we had a rock solid pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Lol the link says it no longer exists but yeah I know what a pressure bleeder is. So you think I just need to get a ton of brake fluid and just bleed the f*** out of it? I think I want to put new drum brakes on it anyways so I'll wait till I do that to try bleeding it again. Another question... Do you think the length of the push rod matters? Mine is a fixed length so I can't adjust it


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If you have bleed the MC on the bench and had no leaks and it pushes the air out and you have no leaks at the wheel cylinders or calipers I can see nothing else it can be.
What did you do exactly to have this issue?, did you change something or disconnect lines...etc? Was the system working before? Did you just buy this car from someone?
As far as I know I think the non-power brake had a specific length rod as did the power brake system. Unless someone has been modifying the pedal system or MC...it doesn't make much sense it would be too short...I guess that just depends on what someone did before you got the car.

http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/images/instructions/64-69MUST4HOLE.pdf

This will give you a reference as to the proper ratio for the pedal and although this is for an aftermarket setup OEM should be close.
 

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brake problem

i have a 99 mustang with abs and traction control. front brakes are locked up. i replaced both pads rotors and hoses also the master cylinder and they are still locked up. i need help don't know what else to do
 

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Are you saying you can't drive the car because the brakes are locked up?
When you turn the motor on do you get an ABS light?
When you changed everything did you bleed the brakes and when you replaced the pads did you squeeze the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads?
 

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Are you saying you can't drive the car because the brakes are locked up?
When you turn the motor on do you get an ABS light?
When you changed everything did you bleed the brakes and when you replaced the pads did you squeeze the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads?
 
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