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Lol the link says it no longer exists but yeah I know what a pressure bleeder is. So you think I just need to get a ton of brake fluid and just bleed the f*** out of it? I think I want to put new drum brakes on it anyways so I'll wait till I do that to try bleeding it again. Another question... Do you think the length of the push rod matters? Mine is a fixed length so I can't adjust it


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Make sure that you are getting the correct components for your car. All those early mustangs had fixed push rods. I just went through hell with my brakes on a 67. Turns out it was originally an all drum setup and someone upgraded to front power disc, but piecemealed it and didn't use a kit. It had the wrong brake pedal and I actually bent the push rod because the angle was wrong.
Sounds like you are dealing with an original system, but sometimes they say it fits 65-73 and you really needed something specific. I called the Mustang parts store that I normally use and talked to the guy there and learned a lot. I've got one rear brake line to replace and I think I'm done.
 

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i have a 99 mustang with abs and traction control. front brakes are locked up. i replaced both pads rotors and hoses also the master cylinder and they are still locked up. i need help don't know what else to do
I need more questions answered before I can go any further.
Can you explain how the brakes are locked up...you mentioned replacing the hoses and pads and MC along with bleeding the system...are the pads just dragging on the rotor or does the front wheel not turn....when you apply the brakes how does the pedal feel...
When you bleed the brakes did you start at the far rear drivers side, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then drivers side front. So I assume you are getting brake fluid to your calilpers???
I assume that you had driven the car before this started...correct? Then what prompted you start changing everything....did the brakes lock up first?
 

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was driving the car when front brake locked up. then the pedal went to the floor no brakes at all. when i took the brakes apart right front was shoot, left was good the caliper was locked. the pads rotor and caliper were destroyed. put new pads and rotors on the wheel spun freely. bleed brakes all good then tried to spin the tires both sides locked up again. so i replaced both hoses, re bleed again. same thing all over the brakes won't release. so on the the master cylinder replaced it re bleed system. tires won't spin brakes are locked i've done hundreds of brake jobs never seen this before. hope you cane help. thanks Dee
 

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was driving the car when front brake locked up. then the pedal went to the floor no brakes at all. when i took the brakes apart right front was shoot, left was good the caliper was locked. the pads rotor and caliper were destroyed. put new pads and rotors on the wheel spun freely. bleed brakes all good then tried to spin the tires both sides locked up again. so i replaced both hoses, re bleed again. same thing all over the brakes won't release. so on the the master cylinder replaced it re bleed system. tires won't spin brakes are locked i've done hundreds of brake jobs never seen this before. hope you cane help. thanks Dee
If you open the bleeders on the calipers to relieve the pressure, do the front wheels then spin freely?
 

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This has been keeping me awake at night so....did you use any petroleum product to clean the master cylinder when you replaced it? I thought you said you bleed the MC on the bench right?
It can mean the calipers are not getting enough pressure in the line...did you flush the system?
So, for me if both front brakes are locked...loosen the line above the brake hose on the right side caliper...if the brake releases the issue is further up in the system.
Is the left side still locked or is it free?
One important thing to keep in mind is that when you change calipers and MC the complete system should be flushed...if the system condition is unknown.
 

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This has been keeping me awake at night so....did you use any petroleum product to clean the master cylinder when you replaced it? I thought you said you bleed the MC on the bench right?
It can mean the calipers are not getting enough pressure in the line...did you flush the system?
So, for me if both front brakes are locked...loosen the line above the brake hose on the right side caliper...if the brake releases the issue is further up in the system.
Is the left side still locked or is it free?
One important thing to keep in mind is that when you change calipers and MC the complete system should be flushed...if the system condition is unknown.
 

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i flushed the whole system, did not clean the mc, just flushed it out. had the same locking up with the old mc. all i can think is the proportioning valve. thanks for any help you can give me. i'm stumped. Dee
 

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i flushed the whole system, did not clean the mc, just flushed it out. had the same locking up with the old mc. all i can think is the proportioning valve. thanks for any help you can give me. i'm stumped. Dee
yup new mc, calipers, hose rotors, and hoses. all that's left is abs, power booster and proportioning valve.
Please try what I mentioned above...at least it will will rule out the hose to the caliper.
The proportioning valve could be plugged...that's a simple taking it off and blowing it out...the power brake booster could be hanging up and any ABS system I have ever seen go bad sent a signal saying it was not functioning...although on my 08 Dodge Ram it came on and went off when the ignition switch was turned off...it was eventually caused be a ground.
So, I've never seen a power brake booster go bad...not saying it can't but usually I would expect the brake pedal to be an indicator...first feeling harder and harder to push then at failure for the brakes to feel very spongy. Have you checked the vacuum line to the booster?
I still think if you get the brakes to lock up, then loosen the brake line at the connection...it will give you a direction ruling out anything else.
 

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yup new mc, calipers, hose rotors, and hoses. all that's left is abs, power booster and proportioning valve.
You can try cracking open the brake lines upstream of each of those components and try to isolate the problem.
But don't rule out the front brake calipers quite yet. If a piston is being forced sideways when under pressure, it may not be releasing until you open the bleeder valve. It wouldn't be the first time that rebuilt calipers were found to be faulty.
 

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You should start your own thread, you totally hijacked this guys thread.
 

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sorry i just joined the site and i thought it was more like a blog i'll quit. didn't mean to hurt any ones feelings. please any one who was trying to help me stop replaying thanks for your help. Dee. and sorry to the person who started this thread.
 

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It's not that big of deal. Just start your own thread and everyone will be more than happy to help you.
It's just that when it starts a new thread within someone thread, they don't get anymore help and it all gets confusing.
You didn't upset anyone. Just want everyone to get the most help possible.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 

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You didn't upset anyone...I was confused a little as to who I was talking to. I think if you open a separate thread and ask one of the administrators to transfer all of your responses it will be fine.
 
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