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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, it's time to replace pads and rotors in the next couple months for me. I'm the kinda guy that usually chooses to upgrade instead of stock if replacement is due but, I'd love to hear other's ideas. I'm thinking a nice slotted and/or drilled. What do y'all think?

I have a '14 GT with the Brembo package.

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Personally I think cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking under high heat loads and although they look neat I can't see using them on the street or the track.
I would just go with OE rotors or even have your's turned as long as you stay within the recommended thickness that is stamped on the rotor. Spending $20 a rotor to have them turned sure beats $90 for new.
How about converting your puny 11.8" rear rotors to 13.8" GT500 rotors. I did on my TrakPak Mustang.........having the extra 2" of rotor sure looks a lot better and fills up the wheel better...........stops a little better and will dissipate heat a lot better than the stock ones. Since I didn't want to install the OE GT500 caliper bracket I bought relocation brackets along with OE GT500 rear rotors...took about an hour to do both sides.................IMHO
 

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I agree with OleRodder, I also avoid slotted or drilled rotors. With a modern pad, there is just no need for the gas escape path provided by either.
 

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You have really good brakes. I've found Raybestos rotors to be superior and Centric makes a really good dust free ceramic pad called the "Posi Quiet". You can get both on Rockauto.

The cross drilled rotors are kinda gimmicky IMO especially for a street car.
 

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On mine I went with drilled rotors, as usual for me, and upgraded to this guy's brake bracket/adapters to use 13.8" GT500 rotors on the rear to more match the size of the front Brembos. Looks so much better filling the huge open space of the tiny oem rear brake setup. I have used drilled rotors for many years on my street cars and trucks. All of my motorcycles have drilled rotors, track bike included. Apples and oranges, I know.

05 14 Mustang 14" Rear Brake Rotor Adapter Brackets GT Boss 302 GT500 V6 13 8" | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And these work wroth the brembo calipers?

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And these work wroth the brembo calipers?

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Brembo brake packaged Mustangs only have Brembo calipers in front. They share rear calipers with Boss/GT500............all you need to do is either buy the OE bracket and tear your rear end down and pull the axles to put the OE bracket on or buy the Ebay guys bracket which just moves the caliper up to match the 13.8" rear rotor.
One on the left is with the 11.8" rotor and one on the right is the 13.8" rotor. The wheels are 2014 GT500's and are 20" diameter and I'm using OE Ford rotors.
 

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Would it just be easier to buy those adapters from eBay than removing your axels? I've never removed them before, but am not afraid to experiment.


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Oh yes, so much easier. The adapters make it a relatively simple job. The toughest part is waiting for the rotors and adapters to arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think I'll have to go that route. Relatively simple and looks great! I'm sold. ..
Last thing, so i just buy a 2014 gt500 rear rotor and the brackets, that's it right?

Thank you all for the idea. ..

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Yes sir. Brackets and the rotors, that's it.... the self adjusting park brake caliper pistons will probably need to be run back into their bore a bit to accommodate for new pads or fresh rotors. The piston rotating brake tool is very helpful for this ....
 

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Stock GT calipers actually are the same ones used on the Boss 302 and GT500, the only difference are the pads.
I would suggest for anyone living where they salt the roads or use chemicals on the roads during winter to prime/paint the aluminum brackets before putting them on so they don't corrode, and to buy the same type of pads you have in front on your car currently. It's a very straight forward procedure. Yes, NAPA sells the brake tool for twisting the caliper pistons back in.........you will need to do this........and also unscrew the master cylinder and put a rag over the opening so it it would burp back it won't splash on the engine/firewall/fenders. This just helps relieve the pressure when you screw the caliper pistons back in.....remember liquid does not compress.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I'm finally buying parts to do this and want to answer one last question.
Do i need longer brake lines? I could've sworn I read that but I cannot find it now. Did I make that up somewhere along the way?

Thanks again guys. ..

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You do not need loner brake lines for the rear.
When you take the rear calipers off I don't remember if you have to disconnect the emergency brake cable at the caliper or not...also if you have the aluminum adapters off EBay you should prime them and paint them before you put them on.
 
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