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May I recommend reaching out to Team Beefcake for these parts vs Summit? You'll be surprised what Terry can offer on prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Don't have a swear jar in the garage when you throw on the Kooks long tube headers. You'll fill it up multiple times lol.
Yes, it appears to be a project that you simply accept that it's going to take time and things are going to be tight. I'm hoping that I won't have a lot of problems with studs since the car is practically brand new...but we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #205 (Edited)
YEAH!!!! to... OH ****!!!!!!!!!!

I got the car all together. After working over the course of a bunch of weekends over the past month or two....I decided it was smart to spend about 45 minutes going over everything today before taking her off the lift just double checking to make sure I didn't miss anything. The IRS looks like a friggin work of art. This car is ready for some serious racing.

Took her off the lift, and started backing up. Stopped to check the brakes...and heard an odd clunk. Hmmm....back onto the lift. Couldn't find anything. Back off the lift....backing up, hit the brakes, nothing this time. Shut the door on the garage with a HUUUUGGGGEEEE smile on my face. She doesn't have the blower on, but it's time to have some fun!

I get out on the main street....turning left and right....no noises and everything is real tight...like slot car tight. Even the alignment feels good! She's got to go to the alignment rack, but it's all feeling real good. The smile gets bigger!!!

I get out on the rural highway and go easy as I'm still not sure if there's any issues and I do have new rear gears. I'm expecting a lot of NVH from the Ford Racing aluminum bushings but I'm not noticing anything. The smile is about hurting my face at this point!!!!!

Then the oh **** moment. I'm cruising at 40MPH and all of a sudden a slight vibration shows up. I immediately pull over thinking I may have an emergency brake dragging (the Wilwood instructions aren't great about routing or adjusting the E-brake cables). After touching the rotors they feel cool. Hmmm.....wtf. I start motoring again and the vibration is getting progressively worse....and there's an intermittent clunk every now and then. I stop to try to reach under to check the driveshaft. Ain't happening with the car now that it's lowered. I'm skinny...but not that skinny. Time to go back to the garage. And I haven't even gotten to get into the gas! Smile is GONE. I limp back to the garage under 25MPH so if it's the driveshaft I don't do damage when it drops (got a driveshaft loop on the front so 25 is probably safe should the back drop). But how could it be the drive shaft I'm asking myself...there's Loctite and the bolts are all torqued....like every other darn bolt I've turned on this car. It can't be the driveshaft I keep saying to myself. Just don't let it be the rear end I keep saying as well. Not the rear end please.

Get into the garage and start looking/feeling around. Well....I can't put my hand on the rear diff cover. Can't say you'd fry an egg...but you'd burn you hand keeping it on it. Oh ****.

So, after draining the fluid I'm beginning to wonder just how great the guy is that everyone recommended. The gear fluid looks like quicksilver after only about 6 miles (3 miles away from the garage and 3 miles back to the garage).

Smile is gone. Realization that the rear-end has to come out to determine what ground up. Good news is that I'll have the rear end out in about 2 hours. Bad news will be if I have to spend $275 for a new set of gears. Hopefully it's just a racer that wasn't set properly and I'm just replacing some bearings. Spoke to the guy who did the install of the gears. He sounds genuinely bummed out. He's coming over Monday evening to take a look.

I'm thinking it's time to learn how to install ring and pinion sets. I can strip down and rebuild a diesel in my sleep....I'm now wondering why I've never learned to rebuild rear ends.
 

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*cough* I told you so. But you said you were a gluton for punishment.... and would change the gears now, the back again later if need be!!

Gears changes often have problems. Usually its just noise. But I've just heard so many bad stories that I would make sure I got the car from the factory with the right gear, and then leave it alone.
 

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I went through the very same thing...only 50 years ago. I took my car to the "guru" of rearends changing to 4:11's. Drove the car home and the next day it was in the garage being torn apart by myself and friends. That's how I learned and now I do it myself.
I didn't realize the IRS was that different from the 8.8"...I think it's time you learned ...IMHO

A picture of that same car...a real street gasser.

2015 Mustang Rearend Build
 

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Discussion Starter #211
*cough* I told you so. But you said you were a gluton for punishment.... and would change the gears now, the back again later if need be!!

Gears changes often have problems. Usually its just noise. But I've just heard so many bad stories that I would make sure I got the car from the factory with the right gear, and then leave it alone.

Ummm....yup.
 

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Discussion Starter #213 (Edited)
Old school meets new school. Right now I feel stupid because I didn't realize this before we pulled the rear-end back out of the car.

"Clutch protect mode"

When one changes the gear ratio in a 2015 Mustang, one needs to be aware of the relationship of engine RPM and wheel RPM. There is a table within the computer that is preset for each car from the factory that maintains this relationship so the car "knows" when the rear tires lose traction. The difference between the car's original final gear ratio and it's modified gear ratio will determine at what speed this becomes an issue. I went from 3.31's to 3.73's so it was pretty drastic. My car started misbehaving around 40mph. The guys at Ford Racing confirmed that is exactly where I should have experienced the problem given my setup on the car.

Clutch protect mode will make your car feel like it's going to shake apart if you exceed a certain speed (and will cause the car to be very sluggish upon giving it a lot of gas) if you change rear gears without updating the table in the computer to tell it that you have changed the gears.

Good news is that the rear-end was removed in about 1.5 hours and after inspecting it everything appears fine. The metal in the oil was likely because the car was "giving power/removing power" at a fast cycle rate while in clutch protect mode and I did get the car up to about 60mph (where the issue was quite violent). So, I basically did everything you're not supposed to do to a new rear-end (or I didn't do it...the car did). And that is to create violent changes during the first 100 miles. Those are supposed to be nice calm miles with some cool down time in between. Luckily this occurred only during a 6 mile duration.

So....rear end goes back in this week and car goes to Performance Dyno in Loudon NH to be informed of it's new gears. Should be a nice ride after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Yup that's the product for anyone doing this. Ford racing has a tool/software as well but it's bundled with other things (like a CAI). Whipple's is a tool just for that.

I have a Whipple SC and that device/software comes with the SC which will allow me to do the same thing (Just found that out by talking with them). Now I just have to bolt the damn rear end back into the IRS subframe. WHAT A DUMBASS I AM!!!

I will say, talking to the folks at Shelby, Ford Racing, and Whipple has demonstrated that there are a lot of very knowledgeable people that will help you if you just make a phone call.

Turns out that I'm going to be learning a lot about tuning. May be fun...but I guarantee that I'm going to be making a lot of phone calls to the companies listed above before I do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
Everything is back together and the car is programmed with 3.73 gears. Wow, wow, wow. These gears woke up this car!

I will say that the aluminum bushings create a lot of NVH...a lot. If you aren't trying to build a rear-end to sustain 1,000+hp then you should probably go with the interchangeable Steeda bushings. These Ford Racing aluminum bushings installed in the Clone would make you very, very unhappy if you wanted to maintain that quiet cushy factory ride.

However, I would say the Clone now corners BETTER than the Shelby (which I have to say is positively amazing...the Shelby truly is like driving a slot car). I haven't gotten the Clone out onto a race track, but on the road it corners better than the Shelby. It has to be because the back end doesn't move at all when hitting small bumps in the corners since all the rubber has been removed. But, the Shelby rides a lot quieter and is much more pleasant since it doesn't have the NVH that the Clone now has. The average person would prefer the Super Snake more than the Clone for the tradeoff. You have to push the two cars real hard to notice the difference in cornering. But you clearly notice the better ride of the Super Snake at every speed. So, I would say the Shelby is a nicer car to drive than the Clone at this point. I can see why Shelby didn't put in the Ford Racing aluminum bushings.

The Clone will now do a horror show without even revving much (see the pic of my buddy's driveway....hahaha...he is having it seal coated so I had some fun before hand).

I can't wait to see what my ET time is with the gear change. Then I'm going to tune it withOUT the S/C and play around with it this summer.

Later on........S/C goes in this coming winter. Then next summer I'll play with the 3.73's, then likely try some 3.55's to see if I can get the best time. Then then engine comes out and the internals get massaged and then we start going BIG power...

yadayadayada....time to play with the car I've got for this summer!
 

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With a burnout like that, I'm curious as to what the total body count ended up being.

You had to hit at least 7 people. 1 for every car length at a minimum.
 
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