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I just found out that the car has the 3:31 gears. That's why I can't burn up the tires.

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I wouldn't blame it on the gears, the issue is under the hood !
( my 14 came with 3.31's )

---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------

I just found out that the car has the 3:31 gears. That's why I can't burn up the tires.

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I wouldn't blame it on the gears, the issue is under the hood !
( my 14 came with 3.31's )
.
 

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I would think the IRS reacts a little different than a live axle and it would be a little harder to get her spinning even though you've got 10 lbft of torque more than the S197. I know my 14TrakPak would go sideways with a fair amount of wheel hop when I picked it up and after replacing all of the OE rear suspension I got no more wheel hop and the car would go straight....the wheel spinning was still there even with the GT500 wheels and tires in the rear.
After driving a stock 15 it just felt more planted than my 14 even with all of my suspension mods...IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
This was the best burnout. 47', full posi from the get go. Traction control off, normal driving mode. Stock Pirelli 235/50. Had to slip the clutch to get it to be that long though. The car never hesitated or stumbled. It hooked up and took off once it got traction and only spun for about 5 or 6 feet when I hit second. Gave a very pitiful "chirp" going into 3rd. Absolutely no wheel hop or misbehaving (the slight curl to the left at the end was me just giving myself a little more tar real estate for the shift to second). I will say with traction control on it knocked the length of the tire marks down at least 40%. Going from normal to track driving mode didn't seem to make any difference to tire spin while taking off in a straight line (haven't played with drifting yet...this poor car is going to be abused...).

The super snake on the other hand...well let's just say this car isn't yet evenly remotely comparable. The super snake will just sit and spin in the first 4 gears with street tires until you let off the gas. Changing traction control or driving modes doesn't seem to matter with her. I think the 825hp just overwhelms anything the computer is trying to accomplish.

(make sure you turn your head or the computer to view the image...hahahaha)
 

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So, if you're just trying to lay down tire marks, why not simply buy an old foxbody with a supercharger? Rofl

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
So, if you're just trying to lay down tire marks, why not simply buy an old foxbody with a supercharger? Rofl
My primary goal in laying down rubber was to experience the dreaded wheel hop everyone talks about. But, no wheel hop with the 6 speed manual / 3.31 gear ratio and stock 235/50 tires. So, I guess that's the combination to buy if you don't want wheel hop. :thumb:

My second goal was to see what kind of spunk it has with it's current setup. I'm going to change out parts bit by bit and see how it changes the behavior. First mod is going to be those gears in a couple of weeks.

But I'm going drag it in the stock configuration before doing anything to get some timeslips with it stock. So, prior to hitting the strip I'm just playing to see how it behaves.

After the little bit of playing around I've done, I can see getting a real good hookup with very little tire spin with the 3.31's. But I'm not so sure my 60' and 330' times are going to be so hot. Hopefully I'll find out next Friday. Then I'll put in the 3.73's and take it back to the strip and see how much improvement that makes. I expect to be battling wheel spin with the 3.73's and the stock tires, but when it hooks up I should have much improved 60' and 330' numbers.

So, step one was to spin the tires, put down some rubber and see what happened. To my pleasant surprise....no wheel hop in first or second. I did that testing immediately after signing the delivery papers. The transporter said it was the first time he ever saw an owner hop in a newly delivered car and go screeching around. He was laughing pretty hard. :D Step two will be to the drag strip next Friday.

So, for now I'm done until I'm sitting at the tree waiting for the green. Oh ya, after the drag strip I'm going to a road course and see how it handles there as well before I modify anything.
 

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Regardless of numbers, the S197s solid axle puts down power better than the S550s independent setup. This is true at least with relatively stock Mustangs.
 

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Regardless of numbers, the S197s solid axle puts down power better than the S550s independent setup. This is true at least with relatively stock Mustangs.
My 03 Terminator with IRS hooks a lot better than my old 14TrakPak....and it's bone stock where my 14's rear suspension was totally replaced with aftermarket parts.
 

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I gotta say, my 98 GT with only lowering springs launched smoother than my 15... kinda disappointing when you pay 40k but my 15 handles a million times better. If I wanted a lightweight drag car, I would go back to the 98 GT

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Discussion Starter #109
I'd like to get an '03 SVT Cobra. That would be a fun car to tinker with.
 

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Discussion Starter #110

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Discussion Starter #111
Was out with the SS this past weekend. Parked it next to "the clone". Can't wait to get some drag slips for the clone on the board and then start tearing into it.

Just waiting on the registration from the Sheehy Ford folks so I can drive it to the strip and run it. I called Friday to see when I should expect to get my registration....haven't heard anything from them. Ridiculous!
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
^^^^^ This

I've been very fortunate with life (and am grateful for that). I graduated from high school at age 16, had my MBA by 22, and owned my business by 35. I'm married to my high school sweetheart and we have a great family with her, my daughter, a dog and a cat. I still have the first dollar I ever saved when I started my first job.

Now, with all that said...I run/own an investment firm and have watched a number of clients pass away over the last few years from illness (brain cancer, heart attacks, ALS). I'm on the edge of 50 now. Maybe it's a little mid life crisis, but it's more likely that my wife and I have decided to open the wallet a little. My wife and I set a budget about 3 years ago. She got a new kitchen and a number of upgrades to the house and a couple vacations (with me of course...:) ) I got a new garage (almost completed) and a chance to get back to my teenage years with a couple of muscle cars. Admittedly we have spent a lot of money over the last 3 years but we are fortunate to be able to do it and I don't take that fact for granted.

I found this site quite by accident and have been really impressed by the quality of people on it. I figure by posting all this, others can enjoy the fun I'm having. Likewise, I will enjoy the help of others as I'm certain I'm going to need to ask questions as I build the clone.

I don't like boasting, and sometimes I feel like I may be so there are a number of posts I've deleted after typing them because I've felt like I might be overdoing the posts. But, I'd like to share the learning about the Shelby, and what goes into building one, with others who may learn from what I'm doing or may simply be entertained by reading the trials and tribulations and excitement of owning a Super Snake and building one.
 

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^ you seem very genuine and down to earth individual. I know quite of few ppl friends and family that money changed them. They think they're better than others cause they have money. Walk around with Gucci shoes pinky rings manicures and cigars sticking out of their mouths. I on the other hand walk around with jeans and a t shirt. I don't like flashy and never have.


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As far as I'm concerned, boast away! I'm enjoying your dream like you are! I may not be driving a super snake, but this thread keeps me pushing forward.

My girl just became a CPA within the last year, so we're working toward similar goals.

I'm enjoying everything being posted up, and I'm happy to hear you worked for it. It helps to know that you're not on here to impress a bunch of people you don't know personally lol that'd be silly. Enjoy every bit of the success and fun of building/buying two new mustangs, you can't take the money to the grave with you... and I doubt your family will be struggling when you pass as well.

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I intend this thread to be a complete documentation of the building of a 2015 Shelby Super Snake clone (at least as close as I can come to it being a clone). The intention is to have a car as similar to my 2015 Shelby Super Snake as I can build. I plan on doing the entire build myself and then running this car both on road courses and drag strips.

I expect this to be a fairly long project in terms of time since there is a lot to do to the base car to convert it to a clone. Please be patient with me.

Attached is the list of parts. I'll be placing orders in the coming weeks or so.
Yup, it's covered in detail on the other thread. I can repeat. Basically I bought the SS to have fun, but also to keep the miles off it to a degree. After driving it I had so much fun that there is no way I'll keep the miles off it. And after seeing how capable it was, I really want to do some real road course and dragway racing. So...I figured why not build one for about $50k less and beat the snot out of that one :dance:
What I think you really like is "the chase". Shopping, buying & building the car. (and showing off the process while you're at it) Not knocking you, as that's one of the things I love to do. I buy a new car almost every 12 months, rotating between my work truck, my wife's SUV and my toy car. (keeping 3 vehicles new)

Not trying to thread crap, but when you first started talking about buying the SS, etc... everyone was like why not just throw a SC on your mustang and a FRRP handling pack & call it a day. It would give you 90% of the bang for 90% less buck. And then you wouldn't mind driving your car as its just a $40k car + $10k in upgrades max.

Oh well, this will be interesting to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Shift Light Install

I bought a Raptor Shift Light with dual functions (launch RPM and shift RPM) and installed in a 2015 Mustang GT Premium. Here are the steps. But, let me warn you. You are going to be cutting into the car's wiring harness that connects to the primary computer in the car. If you are not 100% certain of your electrical abilities, this is not a job for you.

Although this was done on the Super Snake, it will be part of the Clone build so I'm putting it in this thread.

1. I mounted my light on an auxiliary gauge pod on my dash, so I had to remove the dash panel. This was accomplished by removing the small panel near the passenger side door by simply tugging at it. Then the panel across the dash (contains the vents) was removed in a similar manner of gently tugging on it. The clips that hold it in may break as you do this so you may need to pick up a few new ones at the dealership. They are very cheap (like 25 cents each).

2. I routed the lights wires through the firewall using the grommet in the firewall located near the passenger's feet, just to the left of the fuse panel. In order to access this from the inside, simply pull back the rug. To access this from the outside you need to remove the passenger side front wheel and the inner fender splash shield (the big plastic part inside the fender well). The protector is easily removed by removing the plastic clips holding it in place. Simply remove the middle pin with a small screwdriver. Then the larger part of the clip comes right out. Installation is simply the reverse procedure (big part in first, then insert the center pin).

3. I used wire ties and wire loom to run the wire along the frame. I then simply ran it up into the front passenger side of the engine compartment and wired it into the PCM 95 count pin connector (the top plug on the PCM). The PCM is easily recognized as it sits below a large black box mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower and it has the largest weather proof plugs attached to it.

4. You should have your battery disconnected at this point. If you don't you need to disconnect it now. You will be cutting into the PCM wiring harness and you can really cause significant damage if you short a wire. By disconnecting your battery you will prevent this from occuring. I always remove the negative cable. Google removing a battery and you will learn why.

5. I strongly recommend getting help from a dealer if your car is anything other than a 2015 or 2016 Mustang GT before going any further. My descriptions below only relate to the PCM wiring of a 2015 or 2016 Mustang GT.

6. To make life easy, you will want to cut the wire tie that holds the connector's large wire loom to the frame and then remove the protective rear cover on the connector (just pry lighly with a small screwdriver to remove the cover protecting the wires on the back of the connector). Then you will want to remove the electrical tape holding the wires tight up near the connector itself. You want a fair amount of wire showing so you can cut, connect, and reconnect the wires to the light and back to the connector.

7. You are going to cut into three wires in the PCM. #93, #18, #26. #93 is your cylinder 1 coil positive wire. This gets connected to the green wire on the light. #18 is a switched power wire and gets connected to the red wire from the light. #26 is the OSS (output speed shaft senor) and gets connected to the white wire from the light (the light works with either a VSS or OSS sensor although the manufacturer only mentions a VSS). The brown wire dead ends (just tape it off). This is for a motorcycle airshifter and doesn't apply with this install.

8. #93 is white wire with violet stripe. #18 is a blue wire. #26 is a yellow wire with orange stripe.

9. Make sure these connections are weather proof. This can be accomplished by soldering the wires and covering with shrink tube, or by using solderless connectors and dielectric grease, or by using a weather proof automotive connector. DO NOT simply twist the wires together and put electric tape on them. I also strongly recommend AGAINST using those connectors that partially cut into the wire and allow you to splice another wire. You will regret those methods some day in the future after corrosion has taken its toll. Remember, you are modifying wires going to your PCM (power control module). This is the computer that controls much of the functioning of your car.

10. Be sure to put an inline fuse between the light and the #18 pin. I used a 1 amp fuse and inline holder.

11. I then connected the black ground wire to the ground located on the passenger side strut tower.

12. After I installed everything, I initially left the fuse holder empty. I wanted to reconnect the battery and start the car without any power going to the shift light just to be sure I didn't get any warning lights or codes or odd behavior from the car. After being satisfied that the car was functioning properly I turned it off and installed the fuse. Then I started it and went through the programming of the shift light.

13. I would recommend putting your key fob far away from your car before you reconnect your battery. The wireless network in the car recognizes the key fob and turns on automatically some of the cars electrical system. You may get some sparks when reconnecting the ground wire otherwise.

That's about it. It should take you a good 2 to 3 hours for this project as snaking the wires can be a pain and creating good weather tight connections is a tedious job.
 

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