I'm kinda doing the same thing to a 2001 engine
I'm planning on running around 20 psi from a procharger. I bought a used block that was in a crashed car, it was $500 on ebay, and about 170 to ship it half way across the country. I took it apart fairly easy, the actual hard part is getting it off the truck, on the ground, then back up onto a engine stand when its partially taken apart. I've only spend around $150 in tools for taking it apart (caliper (not needed yet), 90 piece socket wrench set). I'm getting 8.5 CR ross pistons, eagle rods, both forged, all the fuel upgrades, ported everything, new cam, and big valve heads for probably upwards of $3500 from RPM-mustangs.com. After I get it all, im' going to install it myself to save on labor. On tob of that stuff, I got a larger (70mm) throttle body from bbk for around $250 I think, and I need a spec clutch (stage III) for around $300 for when I balance it, and to take the power of the new engine + supercharger. I'll probably get an aluminum flywheel since i'm spending a ton of money anyway. I also got a 4.2 crank for about $200 from fordparts.com so you can either stroke it, or get a supercoupe crank, or keep your stock one. So i'm spending upwards of $4000 just for that, then the supercharger will hopefully go on in a year.
I'm shooting for 400ft/lbs of torque on 91 octane, and you may have a different goal. In order to just have a stronger engine, You would probably only need the forged stuff, and a girdle for the main caps, depending on the year of your car. You might as well get a cam to take advantage of the blower. The one thing I need to know is if I should get the engine dyno-tuned right after I build it and install it, or wait until I break it in. The reason I wonder is because during the dyno, they rev it really high, and I don't know if that's good on a engine that hasn't been broken in.
Thats a lot of general info, most likely some more experienced people will add to it, or correct me. Hope it helps