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Discussion Starter #41
Great job! I can't believe the guy that just rebuilt his transmission is timid about electronics. You said you had help with the trans so just find someone to help with the electronics. Maybe you could find someone to hang around with that does it and lend them a hand while you learn. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Mustang Evolution mobile app

You must be think of someone else because I re wired my whole car lol
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Well I think I spoke too soon. Iv always had a 2-3 slip and it hasn't gone away. Only thing left of a valve body. I put a shift kit in mine and it's never worked right sense. Guess I'll be ordering one from summit shortly
 

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They are very important, I forget the spec on the end play on the trans but that is very crucial. You need an end gauge to measure that properly with the trans out and on the bench with the valve body out. Use a screw driver to rock the clutch drum back and forth


Smoke tires not drugs
 

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Discussion Starter #44
It all fit tight together. Don't think that there was much of any end playa free I got the right snap ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well the more I look into this in thinking it could be my servo... It didn't slide right in very easily, I had to knock it in with a hammer ( lightly tap it with a hammer) but check it with air and it moved freely. That's in the little housing, not the case. Are there any c4 gurus on here that have any impute? If I'm just going to throw parts at it I mine as well start with the "cheapest" first
 

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Discussion Starter #48
It was a little tight I took some 1000 grit sand paper to it to clean it up a bit and it helped a lot. It was putting the servo into the cover that I had to tap it in

Edit: took sand paper to the rod on the servo
 

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First how did the intermediate band look when you took it out?, and I assume you replaced it?
If it was burned or scored it could have been because of low pressure of the servo.
It's been a long time since I've worked on a C4 so just a couple of comments on the slippage between 2nd and 3rd.
#1. The clearance of the clutch pack is either to great or not enough. The only way to check is with a dial indicator and an air hose. (This is kind of important)
#2. Damage to the clutch piston sealing rings or seal.

Just some thoughts and like I said, it's been a long time since I worked on one.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I check the clearance of clutches per the instructions, saying use a feeler gauge between the last steel and snap ring. The band was replaced with a new one. The only reason I say the servo or valve body is because they are the only two that haven't been replaced and sense I rebuilt my trans the first time it has always had a flare. I should also mention that it only happens when I'm accelerating, if I shift manually through the gears and let up between gears then it'll shift fine.
 

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I check the clearance of clutches per the instructions, saying use a feeler gauge between the last steel and snap ring. The band was replaced with a new one. The only reason I say the servo or valve body is because they are the only two that haven't been replaced and sense I rebuilt my trans the first time it has always had a flare. I should also mention that it only happens when I'm accelerating, if I shift manually through the gears and let up between gears then it'll shift fine.
Ok, what about starting in 1st gear and accelerate up to 25mph.....then let off the gas............does the car start coming to a stop from the braking of the engine?
Try this in 2nd also...manually and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
There is engine braking in 1st and 2nd. I realized that my servo didn't have a spring in it..... So got one from a jy today and put it in and got the flare down to about 2-300. Didn't mess with the band after I re installed the servo, do you think that adjustments could remedy that?
 

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Yes, band adjustments should curb that, again I forget the exact spec per ford manual but it's something like back out both jamb nuts and torque to 25ft-lb the back out 1/4 turn


Smoke tires not drugs

---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

I have the c4 rebuild manual in my garage I'll take a look at it tomorow if I can remember to


Smoke tires not drugs
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yes, band adjustments should curb that, again I forget the exact spec per ford manual but it's something like back out both jamb nuts and torque to 25ft-lb the back out 1/4 turn


Smoke tires not drugs

---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

I have the c4 rebuild manual in my garage I'll take a look at it tomorow if I can remember to


Smoke tires not drugs

I have a manual it's to 10ft/lbs the 1-1/4 but iv never seen that work. I'll just try small adjustments
 

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Sorry, I've been gone.
So, how did the adjusting go?
Just thinking about the slipping from 2nd to 3rd....although there can be a multitude of things to look at I would think it should be narrowed down to wrong clutch clearances, some type of damage to the clutch piston seal or fluid is leaking past the iron sealing rings.
If the motor would not slow the car down in 1st or 2nd when you accelerate in each of these gears manually when you let off the gas...........I would say the valve body could be the problem, but you say this isn't true so I can only guess it's not the valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Adjusting didnt do anything still about a 2-300 flare. But when I put that spring in it helped the most so I'm thinking a servo is the way to go.
 

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If there is no engine braking I believe that's a gummed up governor. It's buried in the tail housing so the whole trans has to come apart, I remember when I put mine together it was stressed that the piston in there should be absolutely free to move. If it won't move by just shaking it a little bit it's gummed up. Does this sound right olerodder? I don't want to send anyone on a wild goose chase. I'm going off of memory and mine isn't very good


Smoke tires not drugs
 

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Discussion Starter #60
It has engine braking, but you wouldn't have to disassemble the whole transmission to get to it just take off the tail tail housing and it's on the tail shaft
 
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