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I am in the middle of building a stock bottom end mustang but doing a pretty decent heads can intake I am considering going carb for simplicity and bc it's not my daily doing track heat heads anderson n51 cam and a decent intake people are telling me I wouldn't make any power thoughts
 

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There is some good carb vs efi information/comparisons in the stickies.
IMO I wouldnt convert unless you already have some of the required parts.

The tuning and maintenance will be much easier will be less of a headach on efi than a carb. Power wise would be similar all depending on setup.

To convert, a few things you will need:

- A fuel pump or way of SAFELY regulating it down. Mine currently is regulated down. it does work good without any issues. But that maybe because og doesn't get a lot of miles on it.

- a fuel pump regulator.

- a fuel pump relay. I used the factory relay and took the signal wire that usually tells the relay to kick on and put it straight to ground. This makes it kick on when the key is forward.

- this isn't necessary but I installed a kill switch because of the previous statement.

-You will also need a distributor because the stock one will not advance anymore. You can use a vacuum or centrifugal advance type.

- then the obvious. Carb and intake.

I maybe missing some things. But if your not worried about tuning and maintenance I would weigh the prices of the above mentioned over: injectors, throttle body, and whatever else would need purchased for supporting mods.

Also a wideband isn't necessary but will help tuning. I thought my car was tuned perfect. It ran great, with perfect throttle response. Until I installed the wideband. I have since changed the jets 4 sizes and maybe need just a few more. But I just haven't for that far because I recently found out my lifters where shot.

Hope this helps. :)
 

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I am in the middle of building a stock bottom end mustang but doing a pretty decent heads can intake I am considering going carb for simplicity and bc it's not my daily doing track heat heads anderson n51 cam and a decent intake people are telling me I wouldn't make any power thoughts
You can actually make a little bit more power on a strip car with a carb.
The downside is that you will lose the fine tuning that the EFI provides along with some reduced gas mileage and easy idling capabilities in cold weather. IMO these cars are getting old enough that I also think it is beginning to affect their resale value.


Having grown up with, tinkering and tuning on carbs, I won't ever go back myself. :good:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
dreamstang said:
There is some good carb vs efi information/comparisons in the stickies.
IMO I wouldnt convert unless you already have some of the required parts.

The tuning and maintenance will be much easier will be less of a headach on efi than a carb. Power wise would be similar all depending on setup.

To convert, a few things you will need:

- A fuel pump or way of SAFELY regulating it down. Mine currently is regulated down. it does work good without any issues. But that maybe because og doesn't get a lot of miles on it.

- a fuel pump regulator.

- a fuel pump relay. I used the factory relay and took the signal wire that usually tells the relay to kick on and put it straight to ground. This makes it kick on when the key is forward.

- this isn't necessary but I installed a kill switch because of the previous statement.

-You will also need a distributor because the stock one will not advance anymore. You can use a vacuum or centrifugal advance type.

- then the obvious. Carb and intake.

I maybe missing some things. But if your not worried about tuning and maintenance I would weigh the prices of the above mentioned over: injectors, throttle body, and whatever else would need purchased for supporting mods.

Also a wideband isn't necessary but will help tuning. I thought my car was tuned perfect. It ran great, with perfect throttle response. Until I installed the wideband. I have since changed the jets 4 sizes and maybe need just a few more. But I just haven't for that far because I recently found out my lifters where shot.

Hope this helps. :)
I am going to be using a regulator to regulate it down Mallory brand what are the wires I splice to for the fuel pump like you mentioned above, and if I use a regulator I can use existing fuel lines if so what connectors do I get to hook up fuel lines feed and return
 

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04machazblue said:
I am going to be using a regulator to regulate it down Mallory brand what are the wires I splice to for the fuel pump like you mentioned above, and if I use a regulator I can use existing fuel lines if so what connectors do I get to hook up fuel lines feed and return
The tan/light green wire on the relay under the seat. What I did was snip it and ground it to the seat bolt. Also like I mentioned you may want to put a kill switch on that wire so if you need to trouble shoot something with the key on down the road you can turn the fuel pump off.

As for the fuel line. What I did was use the factory chrome lines and just hose clamp a rubber fuel line to. Now the chrome line may not grip the best so what else I did was use a flaring tool and flare the end of the chrome line. This allows the line to not be able to slide of once tightened.

If you need a pic of my lines let me know and later I can snap one. But what I described is basically all I did. :good:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
dreamstang said:
The tan/light green wire on the relay under the seat. What I did was snip it and ground it to the seat bolt. Also like I mentioned you may want to put a kill switch on that wire so if you need to trouble shoot something with the key on down the road you can turn the fuel pump off.

As for the fuel line. What I did was use the factory chrome lines and just hose clamp a rubber fuel line to. Now the chrome line may not grip the best so what else I did was use a flaring tool and flare the end of the chrome line. This allows the line to not be able to slide of once tightened.

If you need a pic of my lines let me know and later I can snap one. But what I described is basically all I did. :good:
Okay kool yes pictures are good much more visual learner and compression fitting be okay
 

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Not the best pics but the one pic is of my Holley regulator. It comes in a combo pack with the Holley blue fuel pump. And I got this duel feed line from autozone for like 15$. Then I used a hose barb fitting in the end of the line and on the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
dreamstang said:
Not the best pics but the one pic is of my Holley regulator. It comes in a combo pack with the Holley blue fuel pump. And I got this duel feed line from autozone for like 15$. Then I used a hose barb fitting in the end of the line and on the regulator.
Did you use the holy pump or keep ur factory fuel pump
 

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Discussion Starter #10
dreamstang said:
for now im still using the factory pump. but i will install the holley blue when the stocker fails from being reg'ed down so much, if it does.
Nice so all I have to do is ground that wire and get the regulator and of course the intake and carb seems simple then I can rip out my old EEC wires
 

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04machazblue said:
Nice so all I have to do is ground that wire and get the regulator and of course the intake and carb seems simple then I can rip out my old EEC wires
uhh pretty much. besides you also need a either vacuum advance or centrifigul advance distributor. other wise your distributor wont advance.
 

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the reason you need to ground that wire is because when u toss the tfi from the distributor the relay wont know to kick on anymore.

btw i didnt do the whole conversion on my. i just de-hillbilled it. it was half ass done. so i figure out most of what i have been giving you. :good: but its possible i am missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
dreamstang said:
the reason you need to ground that wire is because when u toss the tfi from the distributor the relay wont know to kick on anymore.

btw i didnt do the whole conversion on my. i just de-hillbilled it. it was half ass done. so i figure out most of what i have been giving you. :good: but its possible i am missing something.
Yea I forgot to add distributor prolly get one from an 85 and I have a friend who builds cars who can help if I stumped he is helping me redo my shortblock
 

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You can actually make a little bit more power on a strip car with a carb.
The downside is that you will lose the fine tuning that the EFI provides along with some reduced gas mileage and easy idling capabilities in cold weather. IMO these cars are getting old enough that I also think it is beginning to affect their resale value.


Having grown up with, tinkering and tuning on carbs, I won't ever go back myself. :good:
Never never,,i agree,,Ill be glad when all the small engines are FI,,lol..I rather deal with sensors and programs,,before going back to carbs
 

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Plus the old EEC IV is sooo simple. No need to ditch it.... I alway shake my head when I see people/ads on CL. And ask why. "Carb is easier", um, ok... Plus intakes and all are a dime a dozen anymore for them. I was so blown away when I got my 10' GT at the price of S197 stuff compared the Fox stuff (even back in the day Fox was relatively cheap).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
etc1006 said:
Plus the old EEC IV is sooo simple. No need to ditch it.... I alway shake my head when I see people/ads on CL. And ask why. "Carb is easier", um, ok... Plus intakes and all are a dime a dozen anymore for them. I was so blown away when I got my 10' GT at the price of S197 stuff compared the Fox stuff (even back in the day Fox was relatively cheap).
The car isn't going to be a daily at all I drive my truck everyday this is going to be my street/strip machine and its going to be a stock bottom end 302 with a good h/c/I set up and maybe a sneaky Pete shot
 

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Never never,,i agree,,Ill be glad when all the small engines are FI,,lol..I rather deal with sensors and programs,,before going back to carbs
Yes, I all to well remember tuning one one day then a few days later the temp and humidity changes and the customer is back saying, "My car just isn't running right again." :(

Trying to find the "sweet" spot where they will perform acceptably all the time is/was a chore and sometimes darn nigh impossible. I wish we had, had the wide band O2's and meters back then, they make it much easier to develop a profile over various weather conditions and would have made tuning much easier. Even so, I now much prefer letting the EECIV take care of all that. :good:
 

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The car isn't going to be a daily at all I drive my truck everyday this is going to be my street/strip machine and its going to be a stock bottom end 302 with a good h/c/I set up and maybe a sneaky Pete shot
Just so you know and you probably already do, those "Sneaky Pete's" have tiny little bottles, so pay very close attention to bottle pressure and tune, so you don't get an intake/hood destroying backfire. :eek: :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Trojan Horse said:
Just so you know and you probably already do, those "Sneaky Pete's" have tiny little bottles, so pay very close attention to bottle pressure and tune, so you don't get an intake/hood destroying backfire. :eek: :cry:
Having trouble finding what wires I need to keep
 

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Having trouble finding what wires I need to keep
I'd keep all of them in case you or the next owner wants to put it back to EFI, harnesses are very expensive. Your ignition/starter wires will have to stay as will all of the sensors and dash wires.


You need to find the EEC Pinout and see what you may or may not need. It and other useful diagrams can be found in the Useful Info thread in the Very Useful or Old Fuel Injection links.
 
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