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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys as you can see by my sig, my car sits a little high. Im not used to this im used to my civic which is just a few inches off the ground. So these are my questions the guy who built the car, I believe built it just for a track car, I dont go to the track I just enjoy driving it as a fun car. Alright he has these suspension mods done to it. Sub-Frame connectors. Adjustable upper control arms, and SouthSide lowers. 50/50 rear shocks, and 90/10 front. Alright what is the adjustable upper control arms and southside lowers?

When I turn the car it tends to be really hard to turn, I love the way the car hooks up when you push down the throttle, but I want it to be able to handle better around the turns, not like a f1 car or anything just a little better turning. How can I do this and still have excellent straight line traction?
More straight line traction then turning!
 

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First thing is to dump those 90/10 struts. That;s half the problem, they are straighline drag race only shocks and not really safe for street use.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So what should I get?
 

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A set of stock replacement struts would be yards better, but there are any number of aftermarket struts out there that'll do the trick.

One thing that makes me wonder, if he went so far as to put 90/10 struts in it what front springs do you have? soft springs in the front along with 90/10 dampers is an old time racers trick to promote weight transfer back to the rear wheels. You may need new springs too.

I'd look into a package deal offered by the aftermarket. I don't know the interchange between your Stang and the later ones, but maybe if it'll fit the Bullit kit is nice and reasonably priced.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Where can I find the bullit kit?
 

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i would go with H&R 1.5inch drop springs (my friends fox has em it sits perfect!)

tokico s/s (different for fox body cuz the shaft needs to be shorter....)

mm cc plates

mm lca's

make sure the subs are full length weld in

convert to a 5 lug swap with 94-95 front spindles and a rear kit from gefracing.com

pbr front brakes from a 99+ v6 or gt ( grind the bottom edge of the spindle bolt hole and they fit perfectly and look great with a little smoothing and painting, they are aluminum so sae 8lbs per side adn stop 30% better)

you could also get cobra brakes if you wanted (with 17 inch rims)

17 inch 03 cobra rims look awsoem on fox bodies. 255/40/17s front and 275/40/17 rear
(I ONLY authorize this due to you must on a fox unless you like horrid rubbing... or you get 8 wide rims on the front and run 245/45/17s)

the end result looks amazing i need to get pics of his car.. brent has seen it, its white like your sand a hatch also.
 

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[I agree with with you. Maximum everything. But I would get the belsteins. ;) QUOTE=SpectorV]i would go with H&R 1.5inch drop springs (my friends fox has em it sits perfect!)

tokico s/s (different for fox body cuz the shaft needs to be shorter....)

mm cc plates

mm lca's

make sure the subs are full length weld in

convert to a 5 lug swap with 94-95 front spindles and a rear kit from gefracing.com

pbr front brakes from a 99+ v6 or gt ( grind the bottom edge of the spindle bolt hole and they fit perfectly and look great with a little smoothing and painting, they are aluminum so sae 8lbs per side adn stop 30% better)

you could also get cobra brakes if you wanted (with 17 inch rims)

17 inch 03 cobra rims look awsoem on fox bodies. 255/40/17s front and 275/40/17 rear
(I ONLY authorize this due to you must on a fox unless you like horrid rubbing... or you get 8 wide rims on the front and run 245/45/17s)

the end result looks amazing i need to get pics of his car.. brent has seen it, its white like your sand a hatch also.[/QUOTE]
 

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Sorry I don't know what happened. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright thanks spector, and ponycarman, js281 im still confused on what you're trying to say, besides the fact you quoted spector. anyway I emailed steeda and talked to a guy named fred mills, he made a really good suggestion I think. He said leave the 90/10's and just get some better swaybars that way I still have the traction for drag, but it reduces body roll when I go into the turns. So I'm excited to figure out the answer to this question.
 

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O.k. if I read the thread correctly you want to be able to turn better but you still want traction in a straight line because you like drag racing better? I believe it was already said but your shocks should help the weight transfer to the back when launching. Depending on how much of a difference you feel it would make (pros v.s. cons) I'd get rid of those skinny ass front tires. I can't believe you don't have unbearably massive understeer with those things. That will make more drag on your straight line runs though. As far as mustangs are concerned, isn't a really good mod suspension wise the K-member? I was pretty sure that was their downfall but I'll have to ask my more experienced father next time I get a chance. Also, doesn't a stiffer chassis dramatically improve handling in every aspect? I'm sure it's a more expensive mod and not sure how much difference it will make but ladder bars or some extra braces on the lower part of the frame should help out. For some reason I feel as if everything I said here is wrong so disregard everything in this post until somebody respectable confirms what I've said, haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah he has some sub-frame connectors on their. But i'm not talking about road racing or anything. It just tends to twist real bad when I go around a turn due to the 90/10's transfering the front weight. The front tires and wheels you are right about I would like for them to go but I dont have the money for new wheels and tires right now. Also I am trying to upgrade the struts, rear sway bar/tie bar, and front tie bar on my civic. So of course money is always the issue. Also will it be harder to turn the front wheels with wider ones on there since I dont have power steering?
 

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steeda is subpar compared to mm ... trust me call mm and go with them BLOW steeda out of the water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Spector what is mm I dont know that name?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
anybody know what mm stands for?
 

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theglory said:
anybody know what mm stands for?
i was wondering the same thing :confused:
 

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theglory said:
Yeah he has some sub-frame connectors on their. But i'm not talking about road racing or anything. It just tends to twist real bad when I go around a turn due to the 90/10's transfering the front weight. The front tires and wheels you are right about I would like for them to go but I dont have the money for new wheels and tires right now. Also I am trying to upgrade the struts, rear sway bar/tie bar, and front tie bar on my civic. So of course money is always the issue. Also will it be harder to turn the front wheels with wider ones on there since I dont have power steering?
Cars that were built without power steering aren't really that difficult to turn. Cars that are supposed to have power steering and don't are a little bit harder. The added friction of the wider tires may make it more difficult but not unbearable or even anything close. Plus as I'm sure you already know, when you at speeds then it's not difficult at all.

and MM= :uhh: the only company I've ever heard refferred to as MM is mille miglia but I'm certain that is not what he is talking about
 

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Man there are so many different manufactures of SFC's to narrowly choose just one brand without checking all the products out there. Quailty and Value are both equally important. The other thing is any SFC is better than none at all. Honestly MM makes some good stuff but I have seen equally good stuff and better. All SFC''s are tubular metal and only the type of material it is made of and the length makes the difference. MM or Global does not extrude the metal they use they buy it.
 
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