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put in the instrument cluster in a 1964 1/2 Mustang. I have looked at it, and I don't think I'll have any trouble putting the bulbs in the right places (My grandfather labeled everything years ago before he died), but I'm not sure how to attach the (I'm not sure, correct me if I'm wrong) cable to the odometer and speedometer... Is it hard?
Also, another question, I know how to change the oil, tranny fluid, etc, but I was told by a mechanic that I need to prime the engine so that all of the parts are oiled before we start up the car (so It won't jam or damage the engine) We pretty much dropped a new engine (302, it used to be a 289) and it ran, but it's sat for three and a half years. So how do you prime the engine? Is that hard.. (I haven't worked on cars like this for a while, and I don't remember much.)

Are there any sites that explain this, or can someone just find pictures and show me. I have a lot of work to do- put the carpet in, seats in, panels, and then drive it to a shop because it won't go into third.
 

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That mechanic gave you good advice when he told you to "prime the engine so that all of the parts are oiled" before start up. If that engine sat for three and a half years then you really must pre-oil it (aka "prime the engine") to avoid a dry start. Not knowing how long remanufactured crate engines have been stored, I do the same with them. The easiest way to pre-oil the engine is with a pressure bleeder. Make sure that all traces of brake fluid has been flushed from the pressure bleeder and that it is THOROUGHLY CLEAN before pouring 5 quarts of motor oil into it. I would recommend 5W-20 for a new engine breakin. Drain the engine oil and then re-install the drain plug and remove the old oil filter. Then remove the oil sending unit (aka oil pressure switch) from the engine and select the appropriate sized adapter fittings to connect the pressure bleeder to the oil sending port and then pressurize the bleeder (a continuous 15 to 20 psi will be plenty of pressure). Install the new oil filter, preferably a good one with an anti-backflow valve, and then open the valve on the pressure bleeder to force the motor oil through the engine oil channels and bearings. When the pressure bleeder is empty remove the connection to the oil sending port, install the oil sending unit, and the engine will be fully lubricated and ready to start.
 

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The speedometer should attach to the cluster by a push on or screw on cable at the rear of the cluster, and should be just the one cable. It will have a little square pin at the end of the cable, to turn the mechanism.

"Priming" is adding a little fuel into the carburetor for start up. This will have to be repeated until new fuel from the tank reaches the carburetor.

As for the engine oil, You can put a little oil in the cylinders for lubrication of the start up. Its called dry starting. The internal parts should be ok. Ive seen em set longer and still start fine.
 
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