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as we all no this mustang suspension aren't that great in our classics. there are many ways to improve this area and all are fairly easy to do.

ill start off with imo is the most usefull

"The Shelby drop"

Ill start off what and why. This kit greatly improves the handling of the car as your car goes through corners on stock suspension as the suspension compresses it creates positive camber and vice versa on the other side which is NOT what you want this will cause the car to under steer through turns. The Shelby drop wasn't created by Carol Shelby's team but by a guy named Klaus Arning who was actually designing an independent rear suspension for the mustangs but was to expensive. So by lowering the UCA it reverses the effects. it creates negative camber under compression and positive on rebound causing your tires to have better contact with the ground.

i bought a kit from mustangs
plus Mustangsplus.com | Mustang Parts :: Search results

i bought this kit because of one reason, that it comes with the "wedge" you can go buy templates for under 50$ but with out the wedge. the wedge puts your ball joint back in the "right operating angle" with out this you will wear out through ball joints like no other.

Installation of Negative wedge kit.

1. break lug nuts lose. yes i have done it millions of time jacking the car uo and forgetting to break them lose and its a pita

2 put safety stands under car. (you will need the jack later).

3 you will need to take basically all parts off except strut bars and LCA

start with the easy stuff like shock tower caps and the shield for the spring and shock
after that move onto the spring you will need spring compressors for this. the best ones are the ones that go inside the springs
little trick is to put the jack under the LCA and jack the car up till it just barely comes off of the stand and then tighten the spring compressor down. this take most of the work out of compressing the springs

After that is done move to the spindle you will need to take off the brakes too

there is a certain way to remove the spindles. NO PICKLE FORKS IF YOU WANT TO RE-USE TIE RODS AND BALL JOINTS.

the way to do it is by taking out the cotter pins that hold the nuts on back the nuts off about 3/4 of a turn and smack the spindle right next the the studs with a hammer with a hammer and DO NOT hit the top of the tie rod spindle with hammer or else you will ruin them
after you have you spindles out there are two nuts on the inside of the engine bay that hold the UCA on take those two off and follow the steps from the kit after that.

UCA: there are many UCA on the market and they cost a pretty penny. There are some simple mods to do the stock ones that can make them just as good at the 600$ ones. The shaft that connects the UCA to the car is known to be noisy you can buy 90 degree fittings that allow you to grease these bushings with make them a lot quieter

Spring saddles. the whole reason why my car is apart right now. Mine were starting to go out so replaced them before i get it aligned i went with roller ones. This just means the have bearings in them. the stock ones just have rubber busing that is nothing more than a bad idea. it allows for little movement and has a lot of resistance making for uncomfortable ride quality. the bearings eliminate all that and allow for free movement and better handling

Camber kits/ lock kits

lets start out with what is camber and caster. see picture

on my 68 there is already adjustment for camber and castor but the problem i ran into was my tires had to much grip and made my camber move as i drove witch is a very bad thing. the way to eliminate this is with a camber lock kit. it is simply replacing the eccentric washers for square plates allowing no movement my kit came with many different plates allowing for all the camber settings you will ever need. the installation of this kit is very straight forward and uses simple hand tools

adjustable strut rods: my 68 already has adjustable strut rods on it but don't allow for all the right movements. they also change during compression and rebound of the suspension

sway bars are used to eliminate body roll causing your ties to be planted to the ground better. i haven't upgraded mine yet but planing in it when i get a bigger motor.

other simple mods are replacing all the bushings with Polly ones. The Polly bushings have less play in them and last a lot longer i have them in my car and it made my car handle a lot better. other than this is to just keep everything greased

sorry for any typos/miss spellings its almost 3 am here any other questions feel free to ask!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I couldnt figure out how to upload pictures in the middle of the post so heres all of them
 

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Dude, you're awesome. Great info and reference. Suspension is tough to get a hold of, in the sense that you fix one thing and can easily create another, different problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another side note after removing my uca i cleaned out the old grease and put 90* ones on and now my cars suspension is completely quiet
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It wasnt the easiest but it was hard its time consuming but it made the most difference if you do do the shelby drop i would recommend replacing all the worn parts at the same time bushings and all because its a pita to get apart and you have to get your car aligned so no point of wasting money for more alignments
 
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