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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what they call the black strips that run from the windshield to the rear window on either side of the roof, but I think they call them "roof moldings"? Anyways, can anyone recommend the best way to clean them, and with what? My 2012's roof moldings are badly corroded and discolored and look horrible. I've already tried Mothers' Back to Black and all that did was make them shiny, but it did nothing to remove the corrosion. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

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It’s oxidation. PepBoys Carries a product to clean this. I haven’t tried it, and I don’t really recall who makes it.

I had similar on my 2014 window/door Rubber seals. The part that seals and squeegees water from the door windows when you lower/raise the window.

I used Aerospace 303 cleaner and a microfiber cloth (with plenty of elbow grease) to remove this, then I treated with Aerospace 303 protectant to prevent its return.

It worked well for me.

In the event that you can’t clean it up, the roof trim comes out easily and can be replaced.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It’s oxidation. PepBoys Carries a product to clean this. I haven’t tried it, and I don’t really recall who makes it.

I had similar on my 2014 window/door Rubber. The part that seals and wipes water from the door windows when yo lower/raise the window for the squeegee effect.

I used Aerospace 303 cleaner and a microfiber cloth (with plenty of elbow grease) to remove this, then I treated with Aerospace 303 protectant to prevent its return.

It worked well for me.

In the event that you can’t clean it up, the roof trim comes out easily and can be replaced.
Thanks so much for the advice. I'll try it!
 

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It’s oxidation. PepBoys Carries a product to clean this. I haven’t tried it, and I don’t really recall who makes it.

I had similar on my 2014 window/door Rubber. The part that seals and wipes water from the door windows when yo lower/raise the window for the squeegee effect.

I used Aerospace 303 cleaner and a microfiber cloth (with plenty of elbow grease) to remove this, then I treated with Aerospace 303 protectant to prevent its return.

It worked well for me.

In the event that you can’t clean it up, the roof trim comes out easily and can be replaced.
We might need that Aerospace 303 cleaner. Thank you
 

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This is an old thread, I now need to revisit and update. I have used the 303 products on my rubber window seals and it works great. Now I’m having the same issue that Stymyx was having with the roof trim. So, I’ll be ordering a bottle of 303 cleaner and give it a try on plastic. I will report the results, and if it doesn’t work, I’ll do my best to find something that does. As a last resort, I too will paint them. I can’t easily replace mine, because they’re actually glued into place (long story).
 

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Thanks, I really only started noticing this crap after having the car repainted. I started to scrutinize the whole exterior and now I’m obsessing on it. I wish I could have a few days of energizer-bunny superpowers and appropriate weather. I’d like to buff/paint correct/detail the whole car, but my batteries are on 1/4 charge these days.
 
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Circling back to the roof molding. Tried as I may, I couldn’t correct the issue using 303 Aerospace cleaner. I’ve been sick lately and let a lot of auto/home projects slip behind. I haven’t given up just yet though. I’m still looking for an alternative to painting or replacement.

I will get back on this endeavor soon though.
 

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Do you think this would work on restoring the color on the rear bumper valance? Mine was black at some point, well before I purchased the car and now it's a trashy looking gray.
303 Aerospace protectant works great for the black plastic fading on n my car. However, there are trim color paints that seem to work well for bumpers and such. I think if it were me (since it’s a large piece), I’d probably try my hand at trim painting. In fact, I may be headed down that same road on my roof gutter trim.
 

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303 Aerospace protectant works great for the black plastic fading on n my car. However, there are trim color paints that seem to work well for bumpers and such. I think if it were me (since it’s a large piece), I’d probably try my hand at trim painting. In fact, I may be headed down that same road on my roof gutter trim.
FYI...Rustoleum makes an auto trim paint (spray can) that is a very close match if not nearly close, to match the oem. I tend to keep my vehicles a long time and a few years ago I tried several products and literally found that Mineral Spirits did about as good a job as any of the "name brand" dressings. Ultimately, I used the Rustoleum paint and just repainted the trim pieces. Held up very good!
 
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EDIT: For length.
Oxidization and mold are two different things. If it is mold you will want to start with an APC like Shine Supply Solution (1:1) or Gtechniq W5 (straight) and agitate with a microfiber buffing towel. If no improvement over a few passes add in a magic eraser (or stiff bristle brush) and only agitate the plastic trim. This should do the trick on mold. In extreme cases you may need to use an eraser with bleach (1:4 to straight if needed) or even sand and repaint your trim. Be sure to rinse away thoroughly. Once done you want to restore and protect. For this I like Gtechniq C4, Anglewax Corona, Blackfire tire and trim sealant or solution finish black trim and vinyl restorer are good choices as well.

The above looks like it could be mold, but it could be something else. It could be the trim just wearing away completely or something that chemically altered your trim. In these cases you can't do much outside replace the trim, sand and repaint, or APC + trim restorer (live with what is left).
 

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Just as a followup post. I finally got around to trying the magic eraser! It works!

It’s too cold out for me right now to finish it. It takes considerable elbow-grease, but with the eraser and a small amount of water, I now have a short section that is spot free.

Thanks for the great advice 5.0Black!
 

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I think the cause is from environmental fallout rather than mold. I spent about 45 min. on it today, and the trim-rails look 98% better. The markings extend into the rubber-seals on each edge. Those are still there, because I couldn’t get to those spots with the magic eraser. I ran a wide-tape seam along both edges, and it covered the rubber edge-seals, so no scrubbing there, but I’m okay with that.

I cleaned all the residue up with 303 Aerospace cleaner, then laid down some 303 Aerospace protectant. Unless you are actually up close, and looking for that exact issue, you’ll never see it.

I’ll add the magic-eraser cleanup to my detailing regime. I think twice a year is probably enough.
 
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After you've cleaned it, you might try Solution Finish to see if it helps. If that helped restore it back to an even black look, you could try putting on a trim coating to lock it in and hopefully it will keep it from oxidizing again. You might be able to kill two birds with one stone with Cerakote.
Although you recommended using Cerakote some time back, for the roof trim, I placed an order tonight for use on my newly installed, Roush Foglight surrounds, upper grill, and lower grill. Someone on MEVO mentioned that these grills fade rather quickly, so I’m hoping this product will head this off at the pass.

Thanks for the suggestion. crj
 
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